Praise for
WALKING BROOKLYN
Adriennes Walking Brooklyn is the best type of animated inanimate guide. It made me chuckle & made me learn! Bravissimo!
Native-born Brooklynite and licensed NYC Tour Guide Matt Levy, The Levys Unique New York!
Easy to follow tours for an easy to love city. Walking Brooklyn offers insider secrets to getting to know the best of Brooklyn. Adrienne Onofri makes you an honorary Brooklynite with her fact-packed guide of this dynamic and beloved city.
Wendy Zarganis, About.com Guide to Brooklyn
Greatwell-written and informative.
Ruth Edebohls, Coordinator of Urban Tours, Brooklyn Center for the Urban Environment
Walking Brooklyn is a must for avid explorers wishing to truly understand and travel around Brooklyn.
Art and Susan Zuckerman, Z Travel and Leisure Tours; Hosts Z Travel and Leisure WVOX Radio
Walking Brooklyn: 30 tours exploring historical legacies, neighborhood culture, side streets, and waterways
1st EDITION June 2007
2nd printing 2009
Copyright 2007 by Adrienne Onofri
Cover photos copyright 2007 by Adrienne Onofri, except for following: Mathew Grimm (front, bottom center) and Dana Sommers (front, middle left; back, top right; and back, bottom right)
Interior photos 2007 by Adrienne Onofri, except for following:
Maps: Bart Wright/Lohnes + Wright
Book and cover design: Larry B. Van Dyke
Book editor: Julie Van Pelt
Layout: Lisa Pletka
ISBN 978-0-89997-430-9
Manufactured in Canada
Published by: | Wilderness Press |
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Cover photos: Front, clockwise from bottom center: Brooklyn Bridge; Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Transfiguration of Our Lord; M&I International grocery store in Brighton Beach; Prospect Parks Vale of Cashmere; Coney Island; St. Johns Place in Park Slope; Sheepshead Bay. Back, clockwise from bottom left: Clam shucker at Randazzos in Sheepshead Bay; the Soldiers and Sailors Memorial Arch in Grand Army Plaza; and Prospect Park in fall.
Frontispiece: The Boardwalk in Brighton Beach.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.
SAFETY NOTICE : Although Wilderness Press and the author have made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur to anyone while using this book. You are responsible for your own safety and health while following the walking trips described here. Always check local conditions, know your own limitations, and consult a map.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I want to thank Wilderness Press and the people there who have guided and supported me. As this is my first book, I needed their assistance! Thanks also to Ted Botha, who brought me and Wilderness Press together. I also thank everyone in Brooklyn who provided insights and answers as I was roaming: park rangers, historians, shopkeepers, restaurateurs, staff at historic and cultural sites, and folks from the Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce, Brooklyn Historical Society, Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center, and Brooklyn Center for the Urban Environment, as well as the inquisitive, informative residents I met on the streets.
I could not have written a book like this without my parents, since they are the ones who taught me to walk, to enjoy walking as a pastime, and to love New York City. Finally, I would like to salute all the people who have helped shape the land and lore of Brooklyn, making it such a vibrant, important placefrom Frederick Law Olmsted to Jackie Robinson, Lady Deborah Moody to Emily Roebling, and many others over the last 350 years. Brooklyns citizenry and visitors are forever in your debt.
AUTHORS NOTE
Every guidebook must bear the warning that its information is subject to change, but that may be an understatement for a book about Brooklyn. Things are changing so much that while working on this book Id return to a place I had visited a couple of weeks earlier to find it cordoned off for renovation or remodeling. Or Id go back to some place that had been hidden under scaffolding to find a striking new building or beautifully rehabilitated old one.
I have done my best to verify that this book is up-to-date and to make note of where change may occur by the time you take a Brooklyn walk. But redevelopments, demolitions, and new construction are continually being proposed, announced, challenged, or begun, so some things could look a little different from what Ive described. A $4 billion, 22-acre project that would profoundly alter Brooklyns skyline and streetscape hangs in the balance as I write this. That planned rehab of the old Atlantic Yards rail depot at Flatbush and Atlantic Aves. includes a pro basketball arena, more than a dozen residential high-rises, and a Frank Gehry skyscraper. Though the plan has received almost all necessary government approvals, fervent opposition persists, including a star-studded protest group called Develop Dont Destroy Brooklyn.
Another caveat that comes with any city guidebook is the reminder that you are indeed in a city, so exercise common sense: be alert and cautious (but not scared!), and enjoy these walks during the daytime.
And some practical pointers for taking these walks: Pick up a Brooklyn bus map (free at most subway stations) so that if you want to cut a walk short you can find the nearest bus or subway. To see the inside of Brooklyns churchesthe borough is known as the city of churchesplan your walks around scheduled services, the only time when churches are usually open.
This book has not only been a professional venture but has also fulfilled a personal quest. I was three blocks from the World Trade Center on the morning of 9/11 and continued working in the neighborhood that fall, when armed military personnel were posted at every corner and the odor from the smoldering wreckage permeated the area. That the city is once again teeming with activity is a testament to that most laudable human quality: resilience. I have wanted to do something to express my affection for New York and my pride in its recovery. Writing a book that encourages people to explore and appreciate the city turned out to be that thing.
Prospect Parks carousel
Numbers on this locator map correspond to Walk numbers.
INTRODUCTION
Sometimes it seems like all of Brooklyn should be coated in sepia tones, so strong is the nostalgia surrounding it. To those who grew up or raised a family here in the 1930s, 40s, or 50s, Brooklyn is the land of stickball and egg creams, Old World relatives, Ebbets Field and the Loews and RKO movie palaces, the Parachute Jump and Shoot the Chutes rides at the beach and of an accent that pronounces oi as er and vice versa (this accent is said to have originated in the neighborhood of Greenpernt ).