Frank Pellegrino - Raos Recipes from the Neighborhood: Frank Pellegrino Cooks Italian with Family and Friends

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Table of Contents

I really dont know where to begin. So many wonderful people have contributed to this book, I only hope I dont leave anyone out. I guess I should start with David Vigliano and Ed Breslin. David and Ed are literary agents who came to me to do Raos Cookbook. It turned outto my surpriseto be an incredible success, and so they asked me to write another book, which is the one you are holding. Im not quite sure why I agreed to their wishes, but somehow they got me to believe that I might actually be good at this. I hope they are right. In any event, they are real pros and I am grateful for their faith and encouragement. I would also like to thank Pamela Cannon, who was my editorial consultant on both books. Pamela is a dedicated professional who sees to it that I dot all the is and cross all the ts. Thank you, Pamela.

Susan DiSesa is one of the best food editors in the business. Shes tall and beautiful and has the greatest sense of humor. Without her hard work and dedication I would never have completed this book. Her advice and encouragement helped me to keep going whenever I doubted my own work and abilities. She is more than a food editor; she has become my friend. Thank you to Renata Paolercio for the Italian translation she provided for this book.

Susan Rienzi Paolercio is my cousin. She is a true proponent of Italian culture. It is because of this that I hired Susan to be my research assistant. She helped gather recipes and stories from friends and family. She is always there when I need her, and she constantly helps to organize my life. She is a dedicated mother, an important member of the National Italian American Foundation, and on the board of the Museum of Catholic Art and History. She is always watching my back and I love her.

Elizabeth Beier is my editor at St. Martins Press. Beautiful, upbeat, enthusiastic. I welcomed and benefited from her thoughtful insights not only in regard to my work but also from her great knowledge of publishing.

Thanks also to the terrific team at St. Martins who put the book together: Amelie Littell, Karen Gillis, James Sinclair, Michelle McMillian. Publisher Sally Richardson and editor-in-chief George Witte made the publishing process a pleasure.

On August 19, 1977, New York Times restaurant critic Mimi Sheraton wrote a glowing three-star review of Raos restaurant that immediately put us among the top thirty restaurants in New York and made us the number one Southern Italian restaurant in New York. My uncle Vincent, my aunt Anna, and I were overwhelmed. Thanks to Mimi, every table, every night, has been booked for the past twenty-seven years. Mimi and her husband, Richard Falcone, a truly elegant man who has also contributed a family recipe to this book, have continued to visit us at Raos throughout the years not as critics, but as loyal customers and friends. While working on this book, I asked Mimi if she would write the foreword, and she graciously agreed. What an honor it is to have the woman who is responsible for so much of our success be a part of this book.

Danny Aiello is not just another pretty face. He is a great actor, a great friend, and, as it turns out, a great singer. Dannys recent CD of old standards will warm your heart and make it easy for you to understand why I wanted him to be a part of this book. He is generous, warm, and sincere, and embraces you like the giant teddy bear that he is. While recently working with Danny on a film called Lobster Farm, I asked him if he would write something for the book. Without batting an eyelash, he said, I would love to. And so he did. Thank you, Danny, for sharing your memories.

Photographer and author Nancy Ellison and her husband, Bill Rollnick, are two of my dearest friends. Recently, Nancy and Bill were at Raos for dinner and she brought her camera with her. She was taking some photos for a new book and happened to take an extraordinary candid photo of me. That photo turned out to be the cover photo for this book. Talk about serendipity. Thank you, Nancy, I am proud to have been photographed by you.

Neil Leifer is one of the worlds greatest sports photographers. No matter what I do professionally, Neil is always there to offer his services and friendship. The photograph of my aunt and uncle and me on the back of my first cookbook was taken by Neil. When he heard I was doing another cookbook, he immediately came forward again. What an honor for me. Thank you, Neil.

Thanks to photographer Matthew Klein, food stylist Liza Jernow, designer Walter Bernard, and Milton Glazer for sharing my vision of the book.

I would like to thank Dennis Calbi, Joe Furniture, and J.R., three of my friends who were born and raised in East Harlem. One Saturday morning, they visited me at my home while I was working on the book with Susan DiSesa. We wound up having coffee and pastry, which of course they brought with themyou cant visit someone without bringing pastryand Susan and I spent the morning laughing while my friends regaled us with great stories of their youth and memories of East Harlem. These fellows love to tease and have fun with each other as only true friends can do. It filled my heart to see this kind of camaraderie and love among lifelong friends. That morning, Susan got to see what the essence of this book truly is. Thank you, my dear friends.

I would like to thank everyone who contributed recipes and stories to this book. You will find their names throughout the book. In a very special way, these people have shared their personal lives with me by allowing me to use recipes that represent a real part of their history, hearts, and souls.

And finally, I want to thank my son, Frank Jr., and his wife, Carla, who also contributed to this book, and my daughter, Angela, and her boyfriend, Paul, our computer expert. But especially, I want to thank my wife, Josephine, who endures all the crazy things I do and allows me to be who I am. All of the work for this book was done in my home, and Josephine spent most of the day cleaning up my kitchen after I got done making a mess of it. Thanks, Jo, Ill buy you another kitchen.

Raos Cookbook: Over 100 Years of Italian Home Cooking

Brodo di Pollo

Makes 4 to 5 quarts

Growing up, Monday night was always soup night. I can guarantee that in nine out of every ten apartments in East Harlem we were all eating soup.

Chicken stock can be kept on hand for a multitude of cooking uses from deglazing pans to adding to sauces. Soup stock (see variation below) is an enriched, thickened alternative and is used exclusively as a base for soups.

1 (3-pound) chicken, rinsed
2 leeks, cleaned and chopped, or 1 medium onion, chopped
3 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
3 celery stalks, peeled and cut into chunks
4 garlic cloves, peeled
5 sprigs fresh Italian parsley
4 canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, hand-crushed with the juice
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Put the chicken in a 6-quart pot with enough water to cover. Add the leeks, carrots, celery, garlic, parsley, tomatoes, and salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to a simmer and cook, skimming off the foam, for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove the chicken and reserve for another use. Strain the stock through a cheesecloth-lined sieve and discard the vegetables. Leave the stock to cool. Refrigerate until the fat congeals on top. Skim the fat from the stock. Store, covered, in 1- to 2-cup portions for convenient use. The stock can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or tightly sealed and frozen for up to 6 months.

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