CONTENTS
I DONT KNOW for sure when it all started. Perhaps on that early morning of an endless Paris summer, where stars felt like projectors on my dreams.
I pushed the door to the empty ptisserie and walked down the stairs of what would become a home of some kind. A home where aprons are tightly knotted and tea towels never far from your fingers. A home where chaud! (hot!) is the only spoken word and pastries get made all day. All night too.
Yes, from that very first step, I knew Id never look back. This is where I belonged. And like a never-ending story, this is where I stayed. One ptisserie after the other. One restaurant at a time, it would grow on me; it would make me grow up. As a girl, as a chef.
And yet, just like there is a hidden world behind puddles after a summer storm, there is also one behind the stainless-steel counters that we clean restlessly.
Its a world where the little stories matter. The big ones too, in fact. That kiss you cant wait to tell your best-friend about. That beach you can never oh no, ever forget. That road-trip you took with the fog as the only horizon.
Its about imperfections. And glitter on my nails.
Its about falling in love; and baking at two in the morning, or in the afternoon. Breaking up, and crying. Chocolate cake will happen. And flour in our hair too.
Because thats what we do.
I grew up in France and no matter how clichd this might be, I learnt how to bake with my grand-mre, her mother mm and my mother. We would talk about what we were going to make over a breakfast made of baguette slices toasted until just so, butter from the neighbour and strawberry jam that my grandfather used to can every year around that time when bushes are more berries than leaves.
We rode our bicycles to the city centre, along a road more of a path, really where trees were paper-cut into the sky, clouds in the shape of waves and waves in the shape of clouds. With a basketful of fruits, we headed back home, where all the flour, sugar and eggs in the world would be waiting for us in the larder.
This was the one door in the kitchen that meant the most to me. I could spend mornings in there, looking at all the products, neatly aligned on shelves. There were pots and pans, cake tins too. And more canning jars than I could count.
I remember the tea towels. Mostly red and blue. White of course too, but only to dry the dishes. And I might have never admitted this to my grand-mre, but every year, as I packed my suitcase en route for the city, I would sneak one or two of them. It goes without saying that I still have them, twenty or so years later. Still as worn out, but nothing could ever match what they represent. Much more than just cloths, theyre a reflection of my dreams.
But I digress. And really, thats sort of ok. Because, when we were in that kitchen, we sure digressed.
And somehow, without us even noticing, we forgot the difference between baking and life.
Ever since, Ive chosen to keep on forgetting.
INGREDIENTS | No matter how much I love a treasure hunt for obscure ingredients, this book is not about that. Most of the ingredients I use here are easy to find, and youll probably already have them in your cupboards. And just as I like having only square containers in my fridge, all labelled with the same felt-tip pen, Im sort of a girl of habit when it comes to ingredients too. However I cant stress enough that its ok to substitute. It might work, it might not work, but hey, thats the way we create recipes. So go wild or not! |
CREAM | Im in love with French cream. It has 35 per cent milk fats, which makes it very versatile: mousse, Chantilly, custards, soft caramels And of course, when I moved to London, it felt like I was leaving the love of my life behind. Luckily, Ive found that whipping cream makes a suitable replacement. Its slightly richer, but works beautifully in all of my recipes. I dont, however, recommend using double cream, unless specified, as its simply too heavy for ptisserie with its 50 per cent fat content. |
BUTTER | Unless otherwise noted, all butter is unsalted. I like to use French butter as we say in French Chassez le naturel, il reviendra au galop! (literally, You might brush your spirit off, it will come back galloping!). Not only because its French, mind you, but also because it tends to have slightly less moisture than other butters. However, you can use any high-quality butter and will still have perfect results. |
CHOCOLATE | I usually like to specify the cacao content of chocolate in my recipes: for dark its most likely 70 per cent and for milk, Im addicted to Valrhonas wonderful 40 per cent Jivara. But this is not a book about chocolate confectionary, so please just use these as a guideline. It wont make a dramatic difference to most of the recipes. |
EGGS | Eggs can range between 4070 grams (12 ounces) each, which can make a dramatic difference in most recipes. While I always weigh eggs at the restaurant, Im partial to the no-fuss quality of home ptisserie-ing. I use medium-sized eggs of around 50 grams (2 ounces) each. And for best results, you should too! |
SALT | Even more than French fleur de sel, Ive fallen in love with the large and delicate flakes from Maldon. Im especially fond of their crunch and the fact they wont dissolve easily in doughs, creating happy bundles of saltiness throughout cookies and shortbreads. If using regular table salt, reduce the quantities by half to achieve the same balance of flavours. |
VANILLA | I mostly use fresh vanilla pods because I love their flavour and also, because Im lucky enough to have plenty stashed in my fridge. I have a fondness for both Madagascar and Tahiti pods, which have very different flavours. Bourbon vanilla, from Madagascar, is the very essence of the vanilla of my childhood; while Tahitian beans have a more distinct floral note to them. I like to combine them to create my perfect vanilla flavour. Alternatively, you could substitute one teaspoon of vanilla extract for each vanilla pod. Or use a teaspoon of vanilla paste. I tend to keep used vanilla pods cleaned under running water, then hung until dry as they make the best vanilla sugar. |
ICE-CREAMS | While you can stock milk powder from pretty much any supermarket, dehydrated glucose can be a bit tricky to come across. Its a very fine sugar that has a slightly less sweetening power than regular caster (super fine) sugar. Using these sugars will increase the dry matter of the ice-cream mix without affecting the sweetness of the finished products. The brand I use is Louis Franois and they come in neat old-fashioned white and red one-kilogram (2-pound-3-ounce) tubs. When it comes to stabilisers, there are two different kinds: one for ice-creams, and one for sorbets. You dont have to use them, but they do come in pretty handy for making the perfect texture. |
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EQUIPMENT | Im very fond of minimalism. And not only because my kitchen is as big as a shoe box. As a pastry chef, I have collected many utensils over the years, but back in the day I remember asking my dad to cut a pipe in half to make a bche de Nol mould. And I can only encourage you to do the same. No rolling pin? Please, hand me the empty wine bottle! However, I must admit, your life will be easier with the must-haves Ive listed below. |