Fergus Henderson - Beyond Nose to Tail: More Omnivorous Recipes for the Adventurous Cook

MORE OMNIVOROUS RECIPES

FOR THE ADVENTUROUS COOK

BEYOND

NOSE

TO

TAIL

FERGUS HENDERSON

&

JUSTIN PIERS GELLATLY

BEYOND
NOSE
TO
TAIL

Copyright 2007 by Fergus Henderson
and Justin Piers Gellatly
Photographs copyright 2007 by Jason Lowe

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First U.S. Edition 2007

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BEYOND
NOSE
TO
TAIL

MORE
OMNIVOROUS
RECIPES FOR THE
ADVENTUROUS COOK

FERGUS
HENDERSON
&
JUSTIN PIERS
GELLATLY

PHOTOGRAPHS BY
JASON LOWE

BLOOMSBURY

FH

For Brian and Elizabeth Henderson

JPG

For Louise, my wonderful wife

FOUR MORE THINGS I THOUGHT
IT MIGHT BE WORTH MENTIONING

Nose to Tail Eating was admittedly short on the world of puddings, baking and bread, but we now have a chance to correct that failing with the aid of Justin Piers Gellatly, my pastry chef and head baker, who has spread his pastry wings and taken us beyond Nose to Tail.

The perfect recipe manages to steady and uplift at the same time.

One afternoon my flat was broken into. The strange thing is, before I went out I had put a hare in the oven to braise, which filled the flat with delicious gamey smells. I cannot help but think that it must have been very distracting to the burglar, the musk of a braising hare.

Unctuous potential: Trotter Gear is your gastronomic friend.

CONTENTS

Having ended my last book on a cure for overindulgence,I thought, on a positive note, we should start this book onsomething to lead you into your indulgence, a cleansingglass to get the juices going. It's known in Italy as abicyclette, as old men drink it and then wobble home ontheir bikes. Interestingly, Harry's Bar in Venice refuses toserve this concoction, rather as if it's Italy's version of asnakebite, but do not be deterred.

In a wineglass pour a measure of Campari, add some ice and top up with dry white wine. With trial and error, you shall find your chosen strength.

Your good health and appetite!

SALTED BACK FAT
AND WET WALNUTS

Rather like eating grown-up peanut butter.

Take a piece of pork back fat (the Middle White pig has a good layer) and cover it with sea salt. Leave it in the fridge for a month. When its time is up, brush the salt off and slice very thinly on to a plate.

Crack your walnuts open and extract the nuts. Break into pieces over the plated back fat.

Eat with fingers, rolling the back fat around some walnut and popping it in your mouth.

Makes a pot that will do a hearty lunch for six1 ox tongue, brinedfor 10-14 days(see page 208)

a few stock vegetables,such as carrot, leek,celery, onion, garlic,roughly chopped

olive oil

6 heads of fennel, slicedthinly against the grain

4 firm white onions,peeled andsliced 3mm thick

8 cloves of garlic, peeledand left whole1 small glass of Pernod

chicken stock

2 handfuls of butterbeans, soaked overnightand then simmeredthoroughly in cleanwater with a head ofgarlic, until they are soft,swollen pillows of joy(very important, aswe know what happensto undercookedbeans - nothing!)

Green Sauce(see page 211)

sea salt and black pepper

A lot going on for a soup, but what a soup!

Rinse the brined ox tongue and soak it for a couple of hours in fresh water. Put it in a pan with the stock vegetables, bring to the boil and simmer for 3 hours. Check with a knife; you want a thoroughly giving tongue. Peel it while still warm, then allow to cool.