Copyright 2005 by NUBECO, LLC
Photography 2005 by Maren Caruso
All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Photographs and images on are part of the archival collections of NUBECO, LLC, Trader Vics, Inc., and Trader Vics Food Productscopyright NUBECO, LLC, used under license by Ten Speed Press.
Trader Vics is the registered trademark of NUBECO, LLC, and is used under license by Ten Speed Press. Kafe-La-Te is a registered trademark of NUBECO, LLC, and is used under license by Ten Speed Press. Menehune Juice is a registered trademark of NUBECO, LLC, and is used under license by Ten Speed Press.
Drink recipes based on original formulas developed by Victor Bergeron and adapted by the staff of Trader Vics and Sven Koch (Vice President, United States and Germany). Food recipes, reflecting specialties from various Trader Vics restaurants worldwide, created, compiled, and adapted by Jerome Laugenie (Vice President, Europe and the Middle East), Shy Leong (Executive Chef, Trader Vics Emeryville), and Tina Salter.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Siegelman, Stephen.
Trader Vics tiki party! : cocktails and food to share with friends / Steve Siegelman.
p. cm.
Includes index.
1. Cocktails. 2. Appetizers. I. Title: Tiki party!. II. Trader Vic. III. Trader Vics (Restaurant) IV. Title.
TX951.S563 2005
641.874dc22 2004027596
ISBN-13: 978-1-58008-556-4 (hardcover)
eBook ISBN: 978-0-307-80863-9
Interior food styling by George Dolese
Cover food styling by Kim Konecny and Erin Quon
Prop styling by Maren Caruso, George Dolese, Catherine Jacobes, Meghan Keeffe, and Steve Siegelman
Photography assistance by Faiza Ali
Food styling assistance by Elisabet der Nederlanden
Glass icon illustrations by Simon Fillat
v3.1
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Im grateful to Dennis Hayes for coming up with the idea for this book, and to Aaron Wehner and Lorena Jones at Ten Speed Press for asking me to work on it.
Like a well-blended South Seas cocktail, the team that made it happen was sweet, strong, colorful, and a lot of fun to be around.
At Trader Vics, my constant contacts, Peter Seely and Anne Fortuna, were patient and supportive, providing full access to the restaurants recipes, archives, and staff. This book is as much the tropical fruit of their labors as anyones. Trader Vics CEO Hans Richter generously lent his support, input, and resources to the project. Im indebted to Vice Presidents Sven Koch, for compiling the drink recipes, and Jerome Laugenie, for the food recipes. Emeryville Executive Chef Shy Leong was unfailingly helpful and good-natured as we tested and adapted the recipes for home use, and bar managers Cathy Margoteau and Javier Del Campo offered all kinds of bartending tips as they mixed and remixed hundreds of drinks until we had the words and measures just right. Thanks to Ted Hittell, Gail Barber, May Cheng, and Darren Henry at Trader Vics Food Products and to veteran barman Ronnie Gee for providing anecdotes and lore about the old days.
Meanwhile, back at Ten Speed, our editor, Meghan Keeffe, stayed on top of it all with grace, accuracy, positive energy, and good humor. Getting to work with designer Catherine Jacobes, food stylist George Dolese, and food maven Tina Salter makes any project a tiki party. Thank you once again for your friendship, commitment, and talent.
The charm and beauty of Maren Carusos photography are matched only by her gracious, open-minded attitude, and were all grateful to her for putting so much into this book. Tack s mycket to Elisabet der Nederlanden and Faiza Ali for their help at the shoot. We thank Kathy Hull for letting us turn her home into a photo set, and all our patient partygoers, Windy Ferges, Simon Fillat, Arnu Pless Farm, Jesus Verduzco, and Lisa Wood. Copyeditor Sharron Woods thoughtful and appropriate contributions are much appreciated. Thanks also to Brian Keeffe for fact-checking help, Peter Siegelman for reality-checking help, and Martin Lewis for every other kind of help.
Finally, Id like to raise a toast of gratitude to Trader Vic Bergeron. Its been mai tai roa e getting to know you.
CONTENTS
R EMEMBER YOUR FIRST TRADER VICS EXPERIENCE? It might have been in San Francisco or Beverly Hills. Maybe it was in Munich or Osaka. Wherever it was, it probably went something like this.
You walked out of your life and into that swank, clubby Polynesian fantasy world, blinking as your eyes adjusted to the dim light, and slowly took it all in. There were carved tiki heads, spears, and tribal drums competing for space with ships bells, fishing nets, shark jawbones, and harpoons. Overhead, outrigger canoes floated among the rafters above a jungle of bamboo, palms, and Technicolor flora.
Here and there purple flames flickered under platters of pupus. Over by the massive clay oven, a chef was fishing meat from the roaring fire with a long iron hook. The Hawaiian-shirted bartenders were turning out concoctions of equal parts rum and Hollywood spectaclea Kamaaina in a ceramic coconut, a two-quart Rum Keg with four impossibly long straws, a hurricane glass sporting a garland of island fruit and flowers, crowned with a winking plaster parrot.
And all of itthe drinks, the food, the laughter, the carefully crafted chaos of the tropical dcorcame together to create an irresistible mix of excitement, sophistication, and over-the-top fun. From the moment you walked in, you felt like you were on vacation on a faraway island, somewhere outside of time, at a perfectly orchestrated party.
Now, you could conceivably have had that first Trader Vics experience as long ago as 1937, or as recently as last night. But whenever and wherever it was, chances are it was an enjoyable one. Because, behind it allin person or in spiritwas your host, Trader Vic, and that was how he wanted it. And when the Trader set his sights on something, one way or another, he made it happen.
SELF-MADE MAN OF MYSTERY
Would it be a stretch to say that one man invented what we now think of as tiki culture? Maybe. But undeniably, Trader Vic did more than anyone else to define its look, feel, and flavor. If he didnt invent it, he wrapped it all up in a brightly colored package. He defined and refined it, set its standards, gave it style, and made it fun. No one person invented tiki, but Trader Vic made it an institution.