Patricia Wells - The Food Lovers Guide to Paris: The Best Restaurants, Bistros, Cafés, Markets, Bakeries, and More

Completely Revised Fifth Edition

With Emily Buchanan

Assisted by Susan Herrmann Loomis

Photographs by Gianluca Tamorri

Workman Publishing New York

Copyright 1984, 1988, 1993, 1999, 2014 by Patricia Wells

All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproducedmechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopyingwithout written permission of the publisher. Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son Limited.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.
eISBN 978-0-7611-8140-8

Cover and interior photographs by Gianluca Tamorri

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To Walter, with gratitude for his unwavering love, trust, and support

Thanks to the generosity, enthusiasm, and encouragement of many fine people over the years, much of the work on this book has been transformed into sheer pleasure. I am deeply grateful to everyone, past and present, who has been part of the Food Lovers team. For this edition in particular, I can never, ever thank and praise enough my talented and diligent assistant, Emily Buchanan. I give thanks as well to my longtime associate and friend Susan Herrmann Loomis, and to our wonderful photographer Gianluca Tamorri, who so aptly captured Pariss nostalgic beauty as well as its modernity. I am constantly touched by the generosity of the Parisian chefs, bakers, restaurateurs, and shopkeepers who have given so freely of their time and expertise. None of this would have been possible without the remarkable confidence of the late Peter Workman and the expert attention of my editor Suzanne Rafer, who was there from the very beginning in 1983 and still supports the Food Lovers effort. Thanks also to Suzannes assistant, Erin Klabunde; Mary Wilkinson for copyediting; Lisa Hollander, who designed the book; and Amanda Hong, production editor.

CHAPTER 1
RESTAURANTS, BISTROS, AND BRASSERIES Restaurants, Bistrots, et Brasseries

CHAPTER 2
CAFS AND CASUAL BITES Cafs et Tables Dcontracts

CHAPTER 3
WINE BARS Bistrots et Bars Vin

CHAPTER 4
MARKETS Marchs

CHAPTER 5
BAKERIES Boulangeries

CHAPTER 6
CHEESE SHOPS Fromageries

CHAPTER 7
CHOCOLATE SHOPS Chocolateries

CHAPTER 8
PASTRY SHOPS AND ICE CREAM Ptisseries et Glaces

CHAPTER 9
WINE SHOPS Caves Vin

CHAPTER 10
SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Specialits Gastronomiques

CHAPTER 11
KITCHEN AND TABLEWARE SHOPS Pour la Maison

When I moved to Paris in January of 1980, I arrived with the dream and intention of researching and writing T HE F OOD L OVERS G UIDE TO P ARIS . I quickly began reviewing restaurants for the International Herald Tribune but also wanted to share with readers all the pleasures of Paris that didnt include sitting in a restaurant: visiting the citys irresistible chocolate shops and bustling markets, savoring the finest baguettes, reveling over a perfect lemon tart.

When the first Food Lovers Guide to Paris was published in 1984, it became an instant travel bible and was acclaimed as the book that cracks the code, suggesting that even newcomers to the city could feel perfectly at home in the food maze of restaurants, shops, and markets.

This bookmy 15th, on the 30th anniverary of the first guideis a totally revisited, revised, rewritten, rephotographed version of the first 1984 guide, but it remains completely in the spirit of the original. So much has changed in the Paris food scene since the fourth edition was published in 1999. Many chefs have come and gone. Others have matured into excellence. And, most exciting, I have had the pleasure of covering the new group of energetic young cooks who are expanding the culinary musts into up-and-coming Paris neighborhoods. Theres also a new generation of bakers, pastry chefs, and chocolate makers, bringing us all new looks, flavors, excitements, temptations. The markets of Paris have remained strong and vibrant, as local and regional growersas well as a strong contingent of organic farmershelp the citys fresh-food possibilities evolve.

As with the rest of the world, Paris has become a much more casual place. So in my latest guide I have continued with a chapter on Restaurants, Bistros, and Brasseries, but have included a totally expanded chapter on Cafs and Casual Bites. This reflects the flourishing of simple and generally inexpensive spots for quick meals: cafs offering expanded menus, a growing crop of crperies and bakeries that offer more than just a sit-down spot for bread and pastries, some great pizzerias, additional spots for terrific coffee and food, more ethnic eateries, and an acknowledgment of the hamburgers explosion of popularity in the capital.

And while today Paris and its food offerings may in many ways resemble other world food capitals, the city has in no way lost its soul. Just walk through any neighborhood noted in this guide, and youll discover a special, textured universe that will always be Paris, and France.

As in any international capital, Parisian establishments are always growing, changing, in flux. All the information included here is as accurate and up to date as possible at the time of publication. For updates and the most current information on new establishments, any change in prices, opening hours, and management, consult this books companion, The Food Lovers Guide to Paris app for the iPhone and iPad, available from foodloversparis.com or directly from the iTunes store.

I hope that this new edition will inspire you to explore, discover, enjoy, and embrace the splendors of Paris.

PATRICIA WELLS
Paris, 2014

Within each chapter, establishments are grouped by the arrondissement in which they are located, then listed in alphabetical order. Following French style, any articles such as au, la, or le and words such as bistro, brasserie, caf, or chez that appear before the proper name of the establishment are ignored in the alphabetizing. For example, Bistrot Paul Bert and Le Petit Lutetia are all listed under the letter P. Restaurants and shops carrying the name of the chef or proprietor are listed under the first letter of the first name. For example, Guy Savoy is listed under G, not S.

Many major cities are divided into districts for easy identification and organization. Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements, and within each may be several quartiers, or neighborhoods. The arrondissements are arranged numerically in a spiral, beginning in the center of the city on the Right Bank (with the 1st arrondissement, at the Louvre and Les Halles) and moving clockwise, making two complete spirals until reaching the central eastern edge of the city (with the 20th arrondissement, at Pre Lachaise cemetery). In organizing the book we have listed establishments broadly by