Iain Stewart - Lonely Planet Vietnam

Unforgettable experiences are everywhere in Vietnam. Theres the sublime: gazing over a surreal seascape of limestone islands from the deck of a Chinese junk in Halong Bay. The ridiculous: taking 10 minutes just to cross the street through a tsunami of motorbikes in Hanoi. The inspirational: exploring the worlds most spectacular cave systems in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. The comical: watching a moped loaded with oinking pigs weave a wobbly route along a country lane. And the contemplative: witnessing a solitary grave in a cemetery of tens of thousands of war victims.

The Thais may grumble, but in Southeast Asia nothing really comes close: Vietnamese food is that good. Incredibly subtle in its flavours and outstanding in its diversity, Vietnamese cooking is a fascinating draw for travellers the dozens of cooking schools in Hoi An are testament to this. Geography plays a crucial role, with Chinese flavours influencing the soups of northern Vietnam, spices sparking up southern cuisine and myriad herbs and complex techniques typifying the central region, rightly renowned as Vietnams epicurean epicentre.

If youve got the bills, Vietnams got the thrills and chills. Some activities require a little physical effort, like motorbiking switchback after switchback up the jaw-dropping Hai Van Pass in central Vietnam. Others require even more sweat: kitesurfing the tropical waters off Mui Ne or hiking the evergreen hills around Bac Ha or Sapa. And when youre done with all that adrenalin stuff, theres plenty of horizontal me time to relish. Vietnam has outstanding spas from marble temples of treatments, to simple family-run massage salons with backpacker-friendly rates.

Vietnamese people are energetic, direct, sharp in commerce and resilient by nature. The locals love a laugh and youll have plenty of opportunities to socialise with them and hear their tales. Generally the rule is the more uncomfortable the (always tiny) seats in the bar or cafe, the more fun youll have. Poor in parts but never squalid, Vietnam is developing at an astonishing pace and inevitably there are some issues to consider (including a few minor scams). However, on the whole this is an extremely safe (apart from the traffic!) and wonderfully rewarding country to explore.

Hmong woman, Sinho market ()
KIMBERLEY COOLE / GETTY IMAGES

Why I Love Vietnam

By Iain Stewart, Author

I know of few more driven, purposeful people on earth than the Vietnamese. Back in 1991 when I first arrived, the country was broke one of the poorest on earth but not broken. The streets were swept, the cuisine was outstanding and visitors (yes, even Americans) were welcomed. Over the years Ive returned to enjoy the same simple pleasures: chatting with friends over a glass of bia hoi (draught beer), soaking up the street scenes in Hanois Old Quarter, biking lonely mountain roads, and marvelling at the locals sheer lust for life. And then I start planning a return trip.