ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
When Random House first approached Los Barrios in June of 1999 about doing a cookbook, my first reaction was one of excitement. But as I started to think about it, I began to get nervous. We weren't writers; we made enchiladas for a living. Yet throughout the entire process, we were blessed to work with a woman who had tremendous faith in us: Pamela Cannon, our editor, held my hand from beginning to end. During my pregnancy (and with the emotional roller coaster that came with it), through my broken ankle (she said it was a blessing because it would force me to sit still long enough to write this book), and all the way through our busy summers at the restaurant, Pamela was there. She gave me the confidence I needed to do this project and created a very special bond between us that will always be there. Thank you, Pamela, for your constant encouragement and for being such a great friend.
My father died in 1975, and it was a bad year for our family. The bright spot in that otherwise dark time was the arrival of Maria Marquez, who came to work with my mother. Maria has been with us through thick and thin, and is still very active on a day-to-day basis at Los Barrios. Her brother, Jos Luz Villegas, known as Lucio, has also been instrumental in our organization. I thank them both for their many years of support and loyalty. Mil gracias por todo.
Many thanks to everyone in my family for being so supportive. I thank my sister, Theresa, for putting up with my late-night phone calls to get her opinion on wording for a recipe and for letting me interrupt her even if she was with a patient. I thank my brother, Louie, for his great belief in me and in this project, and also for his collaboration in writing the story of our family. I would also like to thank my husband, Roland, and my sons, Jordan, Evan, and Diego. Yes, boys, Mommy is done and we can play now.
And to my beautiful mother, Viola, thank you for teaching me everything you have taught me. If I can be a fraction of the woman you are, I will have succeeded.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
DIANA BARRIOS TREVIO and her brother, Louie Barrios, own and operate Los Barrios restaurant, which The New York Times recently praised as one of the top restaurants in the San Antonio area (although locals have known that for years). She regularly champions Tex-Mex cooking on the Today show, and has appeared on Good Morning America and Food Nation with Bobby Flay.
ENCHILADA GRAVY SAUCE
Makes 3 quarts
Heat the oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour is browned (this mixture is called a roux); be careful not to let the flour burn. Stir in the chili powder, cumin, garlic powder, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes.
Gradually add the water, stirring until smooth. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat and boil gently for 15 minutes.
HOMEMADE CORN TORTILLAS
orn and flour tortillas (see page 6) are a staple in our home. They are eaten with every meal and used in many different recipes. The tortilla is to San Antonio as the bagel is to New York. It is the third utensil: the knife, the fork, and the tortilla! Serve these with butter, and use them to mop up the flavorful sauces on your plate.
Makes eight 4-inch tortillas
Combine the masa mix and warm water in a medium bowl, mixing until a soft dough forms. You can use a wooden spoon for mixing, but you will have better results if you use your hands. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead until it is smooth. If the dough seems dry, add more water, a tablespoon at a time, as necessary.
To form the tortillas, one at a time, pinch off small handfuls (about 3 tablespoons) of the dough and roll each one between the palms of your hands into a ball. Cover the dough balls with a damp cloth as you form them, to keep them from drying out.
Cut a quart-size resealable plastic bag open down both sides, to form a rectangle. Use the bag to line a tortilla press as you shape the tortillas, so they do not stick: Lay one side of the plastic over the bottom of the press, place a ball of dough in the center, and fold the other side of the plastic over the dough. Shut the top of the tortilla press firmly down on the dough to shape the tortilla. (See Note.)
Heat a griddle until hot. Place a tortilla on the griddle and cook for 1 minutes. Using a spatula, flip it over and continue to cook, flipping it occasionally, until both sides are covered with small brown spots. Transfer to a plate and cover with a kitchen towel to keep warm while you cook the remaining tortillas, stacking the finished tortillas on the plate. Serve immediately.
NOTE:
If you can't get your hands on a tortilla press, a clean countertop will do. You will still need the plastic so that the dough does not stick to the counter. Place a dough ball on one side of the plastic, cover with the other side, and use a heavy skillet to press out the tortilla.
Masa mix can be found at Latin markets and some larger supermarkets.
HOMEMADE FLOUR TORTILLAS
aking tortillas from scratch can be a lot of fun, but it can also be a little frustrating. My eleven-year-old son, Jordan, rolls his tortillas out into perfect circles, but mine end up looking like the state of Texas! Don't give up if they don't come out right on the first try. Once you get the hang of them, everyone will be asking for more. These will keep, well wrapped, for up to 1 week in the refrigerator and up to 2 months in the freezer.
Makes sixteen 6-inch tortillas
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
teaspoon baking powder