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SAMIR NAZARETH - 1400 Bananas, 76 Towns & 1 Million People

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SAMIR NAZARETH 1400 Bananas, 76 Towns & 1 Million People
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For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travels sake. The great affair is to move. ~ Robert Louis Stevenson in Travels with a Donkey Few of us have the panache to put in our papers, free ourselves from our desks, and take off on a half-year-long trip along the coastal necklace of peninsular India. This richly-flavoured travelogue combines adventure, serendipity, food, and sheer joie de vivre. The narrative irresistibly draws us in as benevolent observers of the many facets and foibles of humanity. Living out of a backpack, in budget lodgings, and eating bananas as a staple, only add to the heady challenges that stimulate the spirit of wanderlust of this maverick-explorer. The tour diary, starting from the remote north-western coastal tip and climaxing, rather precariously, way above sea-level at the potentially sinister Indo-Tibetan border, is an engrossing chronicle of discoveries about the desires, views, tribulations, joys, and sheer zest for...

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ISBN 978-93-81115-80-0 Narrative Samir Nazareth 2014 Illustrations Leadstart - photo 1

ISBN 978-93-81115-80-0
Narrative: Samir Nazareth, 2014
Illustrations: Leadstart Publishing Pvt Ltd, 2014

Editing Abhijit Basu
Illustrations, layouts & cover Suhita Mitra
Printing Repro India Ltd

Published in India 2014 by
WORDIZEN
An imprint of
LEADSTART PUBLISHING PVT LTD
Trade Centre, Level 1, Bandra Kurla Complex
Bandra (E), Mumbai 400 051, INDIA
T + 91 22 40700804 F +91 22 40700800
E info@leadstartcorp.com
W www.leadstartcorp.com
US Office Axis Corp, 7845 E Oakbrook Circle, Madison, WI 53717, USA

All rights reserved worldwide
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, me-chanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior permission of the Publisher. Any person who commits an unauthorised act in relation to this publication can be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.

Disclaimer The views expressed in this book are exclusively those of the Author and do not pertain to be held by the Publisher.

To my parents for the gift of wings ABOUT THE AUTHOR SAMIR NAZARETH is a - photo 2
To my parents for the gift of wings ABOUT THE AUTHOR SAMIR NAZARETH is a - photo 3

To my parents ~
for the gift of wings.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR SAMIR NAZARETH is a freelance consultant whose focus lies in - photo 4

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

SAMIR NAZARETH is a freelance consultant whose focus lies in the areas of research and writing on socio-economic and environmental issues. He has been associated with setting up community-based waste management projects and has worked on national policies for hospital and municipal waste management. His concerns for the environment have led him to work with organisations that promote these causes, both in India and abroad. Samir has also worked with a national Hindi newspaper as Senior Editor for special projects. Someone who revels in all creative pursuits, Samir enjoys spending time in writing and cooking. He has also registered three designs with the Indian Patent Office and is working towards a Masters degree in Psychology. For Samir, travelling is all about endless opportunities to experience new places and know people. He can be reached at: 1400bananas@gmail.com, he blogs at www.onaconveyor.blogspot.com and samirnazareth.wordpress.com

ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATOR SUHITA MITRA was born in Kohima Nagaland a region of - photo 5

ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATOR

SUHITA MITRA was born in Kohima, Nagaland a region of untouched, natural beauty. Wherever the eye travelled, there were hills, trees, flowers and wildlife. Television was still unknown and all that young children had to amuse them was the enchantment offered by the gardens, the playing fields and bookslots of story books. Such an environment was a natural nursery for the imagination. Suhita joined the National Institute Of Design, Ahmedabad, where the untrammeled imagination fostered by her childhood environment, suddenly found meaningful channels through art appreciation, photography, freehand drawing, animation and typography. With love and gratitude for the bounties of nature, she feels inspired to give something back through her work as an illustrator and designer. Suhita can be reached at: suhita.mitra@gmail.com.

CONTENTS

Haunting wanderlust fuels a trip to a remote point on the north-western coast of India.
From Bhuj to Somnath ~ travel chronicles along the Kathiawar coast.
A cash-strapped birthday in somnolent Diu; and meeting its fishermen.
Visiting Alang, the worlds largest shipbreaking yard; learning about Agate; and snacking on ethnic sweets and snacks.
Daman holds its own for the discerning visitor.
Observations on a city-state by a fever-addled brain.
Mumbai to Malvan ~ unique insights into the people, food, and social mores of the great state of India.
Taking a new look at Goa and the intriguing seasonal interplay between the resident East and just visiting West.
Adventurous exploration of a restricted area and the thrill of making the - photo 6
Adventurous exploration of a restricted area and the thrill of making the - photo 7
Adventurous exploration of a restricted area; and the thrill of making the acquaintance of the people and cuisine of Karnataka.
An electronically enabled bus ride to Kasargod and tackling meal timings and essential communications.
Braving all linguistic odds to get a feel of Mahe, its Malayali-French characteristics, and English usage.
The coastal route re-enters Kerala; manfully contending with the old communication impasse and new culinary dilemmas.
Dwelling on the institution of the village breadman in Goa.
Visiting the holiest Hindu shrines; stumbling upon early Christian history; meeting people and learning Keralas social, political and cultural nuances.
From Kanyakumari to Cuddalore, Tamil Nadu offers several human-interest stories, including victims and heroes of the 2004 Tsunami, young Hindu revivalists at Rameshwaram, and the struggles of migrant ice-cream sellers at Myladuthurai
Revisiting the city of my alma mater brings back memories.
Returning to my old workplace as a liberated traveller Gaining new insights - photo 8
Returning to my old workplace as a liberated traveller.
Gaining new insights; being propositioned by two men; a road accident before my eyes; and being
stuck in a herd of suspicious buffaloes.
Journeying through the fabled land of Kalinga reveals delightful vignettes of its rich history, culture and piety, alongside the daily struggle of its fishermen and ordinary people.
From the deep sea at Digha to the high Himalayas of Darjeeling, West Bengal is a multi-faceted life-and-nature show, with abiding memories of now-fading colonial grandeur and still compelling eateries.
A breathtaking view of Kanchenjunga; accidental infiltration into Chinese territory; and tasting variants of noodle soup.
Local hospitality and a party in North Bengal. And finally, homecoming underlines the universal truth: the more things change, the more they stay the same.
THE ODYSSEY BEGINS The first step in a journey of many miles Westward ho - photo 9

THE ODYSSEY BEGINS

The first step in a journey of many miles

Westward ho! Finally succumbing to the irresistible call of the great Indian yonder, I cheerily (some would say, foolishly), put in my papers and set out on a trip along Indias snaking coastline glimpsing en route the fascinating socio-cultural profiles of my fellow travellers during a quintessentially Indian train ride.

The travelling man and a train ticket

The hotel manager was visibly happy that the rucksack and tote bag accompanied me when I sauntered off to check the room offered. His cheer obviously sprang from the assumption that his hospitality was about to be accepted and would, in due course, bring its reward. This was soon confirmed by the bags being dumped on the floor and my sprawling across the bed and requesting the guest register be brought up. There was just one little fly in the ointment though. It was not the room that concerned me but the loo. The attached water closet, to put it kindly, had been well used, but still retained hope of redemption. The manager promised to get it cleaned, his tone unctuously conveying that it was a special bonus being extended to a valued guest.

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