CIDER BEANS, WILD GREENS, AND DANDELION JELLY
T here are many cookbooks about southern cooking, but precious few celebrate the southern Appalachian food that has sustained mountain folk past and present. Now there is Cider Beans, Wild Greens, and Dandelion Jelly, a rare, full-color feast of both traditional and contemporary southern Appalachian dishes, from Mississippi Sin dip, to Pepper Pot Soup, Corn Relish Salad, Whipped Cream Biscuits, Corn Pone Tennessee Style, Southern Butter-Crusted Chicken, Mountain Molasses Stack Cake, Green Tomato Pickles, and much, much more.
Aller moved to the mountains of Tennessee many years ago, settled in a house on a dirt road up a mountain, and felt like she had come home. Over the years, shes watched development and other changes come to the region. Feeling a sense of urgency, she set about photographing, writing, and collecting the best recipes southern Appalachia has to offer in an effort to preserve the beauty, culture, traditions, and foodways of the southern mountain people. This bookan Appalachian cookbook like no otheris the result of that labor of love.
FOR ELIZABETH OLSEN ALLER
AND FLORENCE BISCEGLIA OLSEN,
TWO OF THE BEST COOKS I KNOW ,
and for
BEVERLY HEINZLER,
WHO BELIEVES THAT WOMEN CAN
CIDER BEANS, WILD GREENS, AND DANDELION JELLY copyright 2010 by Joan E. Aller. Food photographs copyright 2010 by Ben Fink. All rights reserved. Printed in China. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of reprints in the context of reviews. For information, write Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC, an Andrews McMeel Universal company, 1130 Walnut Street, Kansas City, Missouri 64106.
E-ISBN: 978-1-4494-0018-7
Library of Congress Control Number: 2009940830
www.andrewsmcmeel.com
Design by Vertigo Design NYC
Food photography by Ben Fink
Photo on page vi courtesy of The Hawkesdene House
Photo on page 132 courtesy of The Creekwalk Inn
Photos on pages 3, 5, 6, 8, 9, 40, 45, 108, and 170 courtesy of Joan E. Aller
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Contents
Acknowledgments
IM NOT SURE if anyone sits down one day and says, I think Ill write a cookbook. Of course, I could be wrong. In the beginning, this book was about my local area, a view from my mountain holler. Its been fortunate that Ive had numerous people telling me stories, sharing recipes, and cheering me on, and as a result, what started out as a little book has grown to include all of southern Appalachia. Upon hearing of the book, folks talked to me as if I were their southern kin: Yall have to go here or Yall have to talk to. The joy with which they share their heritage and their friendly spirit is part of what makes this region so special.
Lane Butler: No one writes a book alone, and its the editors job to make it all come together. That, Lane did beautifully. Her real talent lies in being able to communicate with an author and gently guide him or her along a set path. Im not sure shell ever know just how much I appreciate her and her guidance. My vision became her vision, and somewhere in the process of creating this book, it blossomed into something much grander than I had originally conceived. For that, and for so much more, I thank and acknowledge her.
Barbara Ward Land: One of my neighbors as the crow flies and a native southern Appalachian, Barb is a trained pastry chef and an accomplished cook. A busy woman, she not only contributed to the book, but also put up with my popping up at any given moment, usually where she was working, asking her questions about certain recipes. She never failed to graciously help me.
Larry Ward: Larry is a fifth-generation woodworker and carver here in the southern Appalachian Mountains. His family has been featured in major works on the area, and Larry can tell you anything youd want to know about the southern Appalachian culture. He once told me that outsiders arent going to find us by hanging out in town. They need to get out and talk to local folks. Larry is an outrageous storyteller and is responsible for the recipe for homemade Appalachian wines.
Robert Grannis: My friend Bob has been supportive and encouraging from the beginning. While I was sitting in the winter cold, he never failed to tell me the temperature in Florida. Ha! We share the belief that all cultures are valuable and should be honored, and Ive attempted to do that in this book. No place is made up of just one kind of people, and we often overlook the contributions made and the shared histories. The gathering of different cultures gives southern Appalachia its unique flavor.
Errol Dillon: Errol, my Mississippi friend, encouraged my photography.
John C. Rivers: My southern Appalachian friend from Alabama, J.C. has contributed to the book by giving me his recipes and sharing his expertise on soul food. His family has been in the area since slavery and his knowledge of history and local sites is invaluable. His encouragement and contributions to the book have been gratefully received.
Bed-and-breakfast inns: I would also like to acknowledge the bed-and-breakfast inn owners and chefs who contributed to the book. Although I havent yet met many of them in person, I found them to be warm and positive folks who did not hesitate to participate when asked. Some of them are native southern Appalachians and others have chosen the region as their home. They shared family recipes and stories along with their insights into the area.
Introduction
T HE APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN RANGES were the first to be formed on the American continent, and after eons, they are still magnificent. Crystal cool water rushes over ancient river rocks; little paths wind through native forests of hardwood, evergreen, and pine; endless ridgelines tower over valleys covered in mist; rhododendrons bloom full and large; and the soft fragrance of the mountain laurel gives this old, isolated world its special magic. The beauty of this place defies description. Flowers bloom and eagles soar over a lush green landscape that engulfs and welcomes you. There is an ancient soul to this place that says, Come, sit and renew your spirit. Time will wait.