A YEAR IN CHEESE A SEASONAL CHEESE COOKBOOK
To our parents, our collaborators (both past and present) and all our producers CONTENTS What is seasonal cheese? About the brothers Selling and maturing seasonal cheese since 1909 Alessandro Grano Goats curd, Brillat-Savarin and the fresh cheeses Ricotta, Mozzarella and the soft cheeses Cheddar, Gruyre and the semi-hard cheeses Reblochon, Comt and the bold cheeses The perfect selection Pairing wine with cheese
Theres something magical about cheese: its endless diversity, its unique flavours, its delicious transformations in recipes both savoury and sweet. We wanted this book to be a celebration of this most treasured dairy product, but in particular, a celebration of seasonal cheese. Seasonal cheese is what we sell in our London fromagerie Androuet and its what we serve right next door in our restaurant. Our seasonal ethos is something we share with our Androuet cousins in France. There are eight Androuet fromageries across the Channel, and the founding shop in Paris has been selling seasonal cheese since 1909. Cheese can be used in cooking in so many ways with so many different results, so together with our Italian chef Alessandro Grano, weve collected our favourite recipes to share with you.
There are some surprising combinations (like pork belly with Pecorino, or ice cream with Cornish Blue) as well as classic cheese dishes (raclette, fondue and the best croque-monsieur youll ever eat). Weve used an incredible variety of interesting and tasty cheeses from artisan producers. But weve also included clear descriptions so you can find alternative cheeses in your local store. If you live near an artisan fromagerie and can source seasonal cheese, youll find theres nothing better than cheese thats been made with the love, care and passion of an expert producer at the right time of year. But just find the best cheese you can and eat it when its at its prime. We think youll be converted.
Bon apptit! Alex and Lo Guarneri
The Comt maturing caves (
caves daffinage) at Fort des Rousses in Eastern France. Contents page: Tommette de Chvre cheese. Introductory images: The regions of Savoie, Beaufort and the Midi-Pyrnes WHAT IS SEASONAL CHEESE? We realise most people dont think of cheese as being seasonal, but its really just like fruit, vegetables and meat: every cheese has a time of year when it reaches its best. Seasonal cheese is about listening to nature, understanding the grazing and birthing cycle of the animal thats being milked, knowing what theyre eating at which time of year, and recognising optimal maturing and ageing times. Other conditions can affect cheese seasonality too, such as climate, the elevation of the farm and the region where the producer is situated. Theres always an ideal time to produce different cheeses so that they taste as good as possible.
This approach is not new its a traditional practice that most of us somehow lost sight of. By returning to this and insisting on an awareness of seasonality, we are not only showing respect to the animals and the cheese, but also ensuring that the cheese is at its tastiest. At the beginning of each chapter Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter theres a brief breakdown of whats in season and why, plus a seasonal cheeseboard at the end of each chapter for you to try for yourself. We hope it inspires you to stick to the seasons and enjoy cheese more than ever!
Chalet Alpage where Beaufort dAlpage is produced. We grew up loving food as young boys. Our grandfather was a food importer and our mother, Laurence Guarneri, runs a cookery school in Paris, so a passion for quality ingredients and good cooking has been with us from the start.
We would go to the market with our mother and taste the produce straight from the farmers. And for our goter (thats an after-school snack), we were never allowed sweets or fizzy drinks like the other kids we had cheese, butter and homemade jam. We both grew up with exceptional food, but we took very different paths to becoming owners of a cheese shop. Alex After I left university all I wanted to do was travel the world. So I took a three-month position working as a cashier at Androuet fromagerie in Paris to raise money for my travels. I ended up falling in love with cheese: the trip would have to wait.
I trained as a fromager and worked in all the Androuet branches over a few years. Eventually (after some eye-opening travel), the call of English cheese became too strong to resist and I came to London to work for historic cheese merchant Paxton & Whitfield as an affineur (someone who ages and sells cheese). Lo At school, I would come home to cook my own lunch because cafeteria food was so bland compared to what Id grown up eating. I knew I wanted to work with food from then, so when I was offered an apprenticeship at the world-class Le Cinq restaurant at the Four Seasons George V in Paris, I jumped at the opportunity. After three years, Id become a skilled cook, but Id also spent time working front-of-house, learning about gold-standard service in a multi-Michelin star restaurant and five-star hotel. It was the perfect experience for setting up our own restaurant.
Our upbringing and experiences have made us passionate about cheese, passionate about seasonality and passionate about getting other people to feel like we do.
In 2009, we decided it was time to strike out on our own. We licensed the Androuet name and set up a stall in Spitalfields Market in London, which would eventually lead to our shop and restaurant. At the beginning, we did everything ourselves. We sold the cheese, prepared the cheeseboards, dealt with orders and our popularity grew and grew. We started supplying cheese to some of the best chefs and restaurants in London: the Galvin brothers, Duck & Waffle, Terroirs, Bruno Loubet and even the French embassy.
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