Edward Denton - Flushed and Fucked!: 100 Live $1/$2 and $2/$5 NL Texas Hold’em Hands You Can Learn From

Table Of Contents Introduction Congratulations! You are now a step closer to beating your opponents in $1/$2 and $2/$5 NL Texas Holdem Poker! This book contains 100 actual live Poker hands hands that I logged and dissected over the course of my Poker career. I am not a professional Poker Player. Im just like you -- just a regular guy trying to get ahead in life. You and I have a regular day job then during our spare time, especially on the weekends, we hit our favorite card rooms to play Poker -- the weekend warrior. We do our very best to take our opponents money. We have lost and won.

We run good, we credit our genius Poker plays only to ourselves. We tell everybody we know how we have owned souls. We run bad, we tilt, curse the Poker gods, blame bad luck, blame the other player for playing the way he did, or worse yell at the dealer for giving us bad cards. I have never yelled at any dealers but I have witnessed it a few times. Its terrible! You are the one in control of decisions on the table. Nobody else.

Win or lose, its all you! There are a lot of books on how to win in Poker. There are also books on how to lose gracefully in Poker. You probably have read a lot of those books. However, with all of the Poker books you have read, including hours of Poker videos you have watched, not to mention hand analysis videos from your favorite YouTube Poker Vloggers such as Andrew Neme and Brad Owen, you cant seem to get ahead in the game. Why? According to the author of the book Outliers, Malcolm Gladwell, it takes roughly ten thousand hours of practice to achieve mastery in a field. I have been playing for five years and Im pretty sure I havent played that many hours of poker.

Thats 417 days of Poker. In the online Poker world, I read somewhere on the internet that it will take you roughly one million hands to really get better at it. There is no way we get to a million hands in Live Poker. Assuming we only get to play 30 hands per hour and mind you 30 hands is generous, we only get to play 300,000 hands. Even so, theres no assurance that you will come out ahead! Playing that many hours does not guarantee success. I know players in my local room that has been playing almost their entire life and they are stuck and suck in $1/$2.

They are stuck in that game and they are terrible players. I can beat them easily. It takes deliberate practice to really get better at this game. Ten thousand of quality hours! Deliberate practice is what makes players drastically rise in sill level, rather than stay stagnant at lower levels like most live players do. You must spend time off the tables analyzing hands. I would say for every 8 hours of play, there should be a minimum of 1.5 hours of studying.

I would also recommend you analyze at least 10 hands a week. More so if you are a beginning player. You can do this yourself but I would recommend a Poker buddy, a coach, somebody that is a better player than you. I would recommend spending a few dollars with a coach rather than learning from multiple players you think are better than you. Different players, different play styles. You will just get confused.

Just take a look at hand analysis discussions in twoplustwo. The discussion does not go anywhere sometimes. Let me help you with your deliberate practice with this book. This book is perfect for you and your buddy (or buddies) to dissect and analyze. Find faults in my plays. Learn from my mistakes and more! I have logged and analyzed these hands myself.

Ive had a coach analyze a lot of the hands in my early years. It helped a lot. I also had a group that I discuss Poker hands with. We all had the same coach so there arent a lot of friction when in comes strategy like what happens when you post a hand in a Poker forum like twoplustwo. After a couple of years, I got better and better at the game that I can analyse and find and fix my own leaks. The game got easier and easier.

Its an easy game! The Basics Position I assume you already know the basics of this game such as position, player types etc. But just in case, heres a review:

Figure 1. 9-handed Full Ring. You can group the position into three general positions: Early Position: Small Blind (SB) Big Blind (BB), UTG (Under The Gun), UTG+1 Middle Position: MP1, MP2 (Lojack), HJ (Hijack) Late Position: CO (Cut-off), BTN (Button) Im not going to go into details on these positions but Im going to say that the closer you are to the button, the better your chances of playing perfect. Money will flow from Early position to the Buttons lap. So play more in late position and less in early position.

Even the greatest of the great players will lose in Early Position. Thats just how it is. Poker Terms Stack to Pot Ratio (SPR) - is a calculation you can use in cash games to both simplify and optimize your post-flop decision making. To calculate your SPR you divide your effective stack sizes by the size of the pot on the flop - and only on the flop. You don't use SPRs in subsequent streets of action. Effective Stack Size (or effective) - is the smaller of the stack sizes between two people.

The term reflects the fact that, when a larger stack goes against a smaller stack, only the amount of money in the smaller stack is really at stake. Pot Odds - In poker, pot odds are the ratio of the current size of the pot to the cost of a contemplated call. Pot odds are often compared to the probability of winning a hand with a future card in order to estimate the call's expected value. Expected Value (EV) - is the average return on each dollar invested into a pot. If a player can expect, given probability to make more money than he or she bets, the action is said to have a positive expectation (+EV). Implied Odds - Where pot odds take into consideration the money that's in the pot right now.

Implied odds is an estimation on how much money you can win from the bet if you hit one of your outs. For instance, with 100 in the pot, and a bet of 20, is your gain really only 100 if you win? Formula: EV = % equity ($ Pot size + $ amount to call) - $ amount to call. Player Types There are basically four player types: Tight, Loose, Aggressive, Passive. You can combine these types to come up with the following: Tight Aggressive or the TAG. This type prefers bets and raises to calls. These type is very aggressive and usually winning players.

I am of this type. Be this type if you dislike high variance. Tight Passive or The Rock. These guys calls with good hands. If they are raising, you are probably drawing dead. Think wisely before calling any of their raises.

Generally not a winning combination. Loose Passive or the Calling Station. They limp in a lot of speculative hands. Calls a lot. If raising, look out! These players are generally losing players. These are usually recreational or routine players.

You will make most of the money from this type. Do not be this type. Loose Aggressive or the LAG. Plays a lot of hands and plays them aggressively. Very aggressive. They are usually winning players that go through high variance of wins and losses.

Now lets get into the hands! Hand #1: Drawing Profitably Game: $1/$2 NL Hand: 8 Position: UTG+1 Villain: Recreational player Effective: $300 Pre-flop: I raise $12, Villain at MP1 call, folded to BTN, BTN call, blinds fold. 3 players. Pot $38. Have I lost my mind? Why did I raise 87s UTG? Because I can LOL! Flop: 6 I bet $20, Villain min raise $40, BTN fold, I call. Pot $118. Ah the classic min raise! When a recreational or a weak player min raises you, unless you can beat his hand, just fold.

They have a strong hand most of the time. It's like, "Hey! I have a big hand. I will raise you but I'm afraid that you will fold if I raise big. So let me just min raise you. Please call.". How about that check-min-raise? That's a beast move I tell you.

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