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Copyright 2019 by Steve Hannah
All rights reserved. Except in the case of brief quotations embedded in critical articles and reviews, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted in any format or by any meansdigital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwiseor conveyed via the Internet or a website without written permission of the University of Wisconsin Press. Rights inquiries should be directed to .
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Hannah, Steve (Journalist), author.
Title: Dairylandia: dispatches from a state of mind / Steve Hannah.
Description: Madison, Wisconsin: The University of Wisconsin Press, [2019]
Identifiers: LCCN 2019017146 | ISBN 9780299324506 (cloth: alk. paper)
Subjects: LCSH: Hannah, Steve (Journalist)TravelWisconsin. | JournalistsWisconsinBiography. | WisconsinBiographyAnecdotes. | WisconsinSocial life and customsAnecdotes.
Classification: LCC PN4725 .H36 2019 | DDC 070.92dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019017146
The following chapters were originally published in the Milwaukee Journal and are reprinted by permission: Of Poetry and Planting: Farmers in Springtime, The World by the Tail with a Downhill Pull: Katie and Erhardt Schultz, Tragedy without Reason: The Eerie Calm of John Norton, Living with the Enemy: Bill Fero, The Elephant in the Room.
ISBN-13: 978-0-299-32458-2 (electronic)
This book is dedicated to my mother,
RITA,
who, when provoked, said, Dont get me started.
Shes the one who got me started.
And to
STEPHANIE,
who kept me going.
What in the world could be less important than who I am and who my father and mother were, the mistakes I have made together with the occasional discoveries, the bad times and good times, the moments of grace....
But I talk about my life anyway because if, on the one hand, hardly anything could be less important, on the other hand, hardly anything could be more important. My story is important not because it is mine, God knows, but because if I tell it anything like right, the chances are you will recognize that in many ways it is also yours.
FREDERICK BUECHNER, Telling Secrets
Foreword
Lately, whenever someone asks me to write up my impressions of the Midwest in general or Wisconsin in particular, I defer or deflect. I am forever grateful to be of and from this place. I am still at home here. As a rural Wisconsin clodhopper by birth and by raising, I will always retain an appetite for curds and smelt, will always cherish any tableau that includes milk cows grazing, and will always come by my flannel shirts honestly. But it can get too easy, over time, to become so enamored with your personal perspective that you assume it is definitive.
It is in this frame of mind that I welcome Steve Hannahs new book. When Hannah moved to Wisconsin some forty years ago, he was a well-traveled New Jersey native arriving via stints in New York, Los Angeles, Dublin, and Chicago. While his four decades of residence (and close, respectful attention to character and detail) are manifested in his writing through veracity of voice, tone, and fact, it is his status as perpetual newcomer (forty years after my father bought his farm, the locals still referred to it as the old Carlson place) that infuses these tales with a palpable sense of discovery, marvel, and wonder.
There is breadth of sentiment and subject in this book as well. In Dairylandia, Hannahs comical characterization of Wisconsin-styleforeplay and description of northwoods tavern mating are just what youd expect from a man who pulled long tenure as head honcho of legendary satirical newspaper The Onion... and yet when he turns his hand to the attorney who defended Jeffrey Dahmer, or tells of the eerily calm farmer who murdered his wife and children (just a short drive from the farm where I was a hay-bale-slinging teenager), the laughter fades to reveal a far more gothic Dairy State. And thennow we are back at the idea of amplifying other voices, shifting to other perspectivesin telling the story of people like the remarkably resilient refugee Joe Bee Xiong or the passionate poet Ellen Kort, Hannah does his most important writing of all, reminding us that the character of placeWisconsinism, in this caseis more than what we thought it was, certainly more than we think it is, and above all forever in a state of becoming.
Forty years in, Steve Hannah is still on the road, still discovering his adopted state. It is a pleasure to ride along.
MICHAEL PERRY,
author of Population 485 and Roughneck Grace
Preface
After eleven entertaining years as CEO of The Oniontwo of those years during the Great Recession were not what you would call comicalI had had enough. Geez, that sounds a little melodramatic: I wasnt planning to go out behind the barn and swallow a bedspring. I just wanted to do something different. Why not write a book?
I called a couple of my friends who made real money writing books. They introduced me to their A-list agents in New York. The first one, a guy who had a fancy office in Manhattan, looked like Ichabod Crane, only not as handsome. So you want to write a book about The Onion, he said. No, actually, I told him, I want to write a mini-memoir, and the Onion years get only a modest mention. A lot of it takes place in Wisconsin, I said with great enthusiasm. He stared at me like a dog watching televisionthat is, he tried to follow what I was saying, tilted his head to and fro, but there wasnt a glimmer of understanding. I left after fifteen minutes.
So I took the subway to Brooklyn and met the second literary agent. He reminded me of Alec Baldwin giving that pep talk in Glengarry Glen Ross. You knowvery salesy.
You know what I said to myself right away when I heard that the guy who ran The Onion wanted to write a book? he asked. He didnt wait for me to answer. I said to myself, You lucky bastard! I mean, you two lucky bastards. You because with this clown Trump being president of the United States, what could be a better time to write a book about The Onion? And lucky me because I could sell this thing and we could make some money. When I told him that I wasnt proposing a book about The Onionalthough, I agreed, the Trump thing made satire the flavor of the dayhe was gobsmacked.
Dont take this the wrong way, he said, but youre not famous. The Onion is famous! People want to read about The Onion. Nobody wants to read a book about somebody whos not famous. Undeterred, I tried to tell him what my book was going to be aboutin short, about my life in Wisconsinbut it was pointless. Come back and see me when you come to your senses, he said. The meeting lasted longer than the first one but not long enough to get through the ten-items-or-less line at Piggly Wiggly.
I called one of my book-writing buddies and reported back. He said that if he didnt need to make tuition money for his kidsmine were already out of college, so I had that going for mehe would go to a reputable university press and pitch the book. The University of Wisconsin publishes a lot of interesting stuff, he said. Have you talked to them?