Divine Jeff - Surfing USA!: an illustrated history of the coolest sport of all time

To become the energy of the wave, thats the main idea. You take when the water gives, and you give when the water takes. Its a constant interplay of bold confrontations and mellow respect.

Billy Hamilton

I stood, high like on a mountain peak and dove down, but I stood it. The only sound in the vast moving green was the hissing of the board over the water. A couple of times it almost dropped away under my feet, but I found it again and stood my ground. Shoot it, Gidget. Shoot the curl!

Gidget in Frederick Kohners Gidget, 1957

Its an insatiable desire.

Kelly Slater, Pipe Dreams: A Surfers Journey, 2003

AN ILLUSTRATED
HISTORY OF THE
COOLEST SPORT
OFF ALL TIME

BY BEN MARCUS

Foreword by
Steve Pezman of The Surfers Journal

Photographs and Artwork by
Jeff Divine, John Severson, LeRoy Grannis, Ron Dahlquist, Rick Griffin, Greg Noll, Doc Ball, and more

First published as Surfing USA! in 2005 by Voyageur Press, an imprint of MBI Publishing Company, 400 First Avenue North, Suite 300, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.

Digital edition published 2014.

2013 MVP Books

Text copyright 2005, 2014 Ben Marcus

Photographs and artwork copyright by individual copyright holders as noted.

All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages for the purposes of review, no part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission from the Publisher.

The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations are made without any guarantee on the part of the author or Publisher, who also disclaim any liability incurred in connection with the use of this data or specific details.

This publication has been prepared solely by MBI Publishing Company and is not approved or licensed by any other entity. We recognize that some words, model names, and designations mentioned herein are the property of the trademark holder. We use them for identification purposes only. This is not an official publication.

MVP Books titles are also available at discounts in bulk quantity for industrial or sales-promotional use. For details write to Special Sales Manager at Quayside Publishing Group, 400 First Avenue North, Suite 300, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.

Digital edition: 978-1-61058-761-7
Softcover edition: 978-0-76034-451-4

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Marcus, Ben, 1960

Surfing USA! : an illustrated history of the coolest sport of all time / by Ben Marcus ; photographs and artwork by Jeff Divine[et al.].

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 0-89658-690-1 (hardcover)

1. Surfing--United States--History. 2. Surfing--United States--History--Pictorial works. I. Divine, Jeff. II. Title.

GV839.6.M37 2005

797.32--dc22

2005011655

Editor: Michael Dregni

Designer: Julie Vermeer

)

: Surfers charge the waves. (Photo Ron Dahlquist)

: Darrick Doerner rides Peahi. (Photo Jeff Divine)

: Classic surfing decals and stickers. (Keith Eshelman Collection/Voyageur Press Archives)

: The image of the woman surfer, circa 1930s: Tap-dancing starlet Eleanor Powell poses with a surfboard prop. (Surfing Heritage Foundation Archives)

: The image of the woman surfer, circa 1990s: Lisa Andersen cuts a curve. (Photo Jeff Divine)

: Classic surf music album covers. (Voyageur Press Archives)

: Surfer Lauren Spalding in Tavarua, Fiji. (Photo Ron Dahlquist)

: Woody Brown, still surfing at 89 years young. (Photo Ron Dahlquist)

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