To the three most important women in my life: my mother, my partner and my daughter.
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Copyright Norman Handy (2019)
The right of Norman Handy to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by him in accordance with section 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
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ISBN 9781528905244 (Paperback)
ISBN 9781528957939 (ePub e-book)
www.austinmacauley.com
First Published (2019)
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Introduction
This is an adventure through the Caucasus starting in Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan and an important city on the Silk Road. From there, it was overland to reach Turkmenbashi on the eastern shores of the Caspian Sea to catch a ferry to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. After a transit through Azerbaijan, I cross into Georgia and reach the Black Sea. The original plan was to travel from Europes lowest point on the shores of the Caspian Sea and finish on the top of Europes highest point on the summit of Mount Elbrus situated in the far south of Russia. But the political situation in the region disrupted the original idea and there had to be some reorganisation of the route. There are security issues and political instability and people familiar with the area will know that places such as Chechnya, Dagestan and Ingushetia often appear in the news for all the wrong reasons.
Also, there is much more of interest in travelling through the southern Caucasus and therefore, I altered the route. The original plan also expected to be able to cross the border between Georgia into Russia but there had been a lot of political problems and the border seems to open and close at the whim of politicians. I didnt want to plan, book and importantly, pay for my proposed route and then arrive at the border only to find it shut.
I played safe and travelled across the Caspian Sea and then through Azerbaijan and Georgia. Even with this plan, the border was shut between Azerbaijan and Armenia so regretfully, I was unable to incorporate Armenia into the itinerary. Instead of crossing the border from Georgia into Russia, I reached the Black Sea and crossed into Turkey. I would travel along part of the northern coast of Turkey and then travel inland to visit Cappadocia. This is a fantastic place to visit and is the ballooning capital of the world. It is not part of Europe but it is a great place to visit and it would be a sin to miss it when it is so close.
Then it was overland to Istanbul and it was easy to get from there to Moscow. Then it was a transfer for an internal flight from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody just to the north of the Caucasus and a long transfer to our base near the bottom of Mount Elbrus.
I kept the theme to travel from Europes lowest point on the Caspian Sea at 29 m below sea level and to finish on the summit of Mount Elbrus at an elevation of 5,642 m and there is only 350 km as the crow flies between the two but I would be traveling over a much longer route.
Only some parts of the journey would actually be in Europe but the notion of Europe is a mere man-made concept but the idea of travelling from Europes lowest point on the Caspian Sea shores up to the highest mountain was still a legitimate goal.
Chapter 1
Arrival in Turkmenistan
I arrived in Ashgabat at 2 am, and after a late departure time plus delays en route this was a lot later than the anticipated arrival time and definitely not a social time to arrive. We filed out of the plane and down the steps. Even at 2 am in the morning, it was warm as we walked across the tarmac towards the terminal building there was a sign that indicated that it was 22C. Inside the terminal most of the passengers headed towards the transit lounge and I was one of the very few people who headed towards the exit. Turkmenistan Airlines does a great deal of business flying passengers between Europe and Asia as it undercuts other airlines using its base in Ashgabat as a convenient transit point halfway between the two destinations to connect loads of destinations.
There were just two people in front of me at the visa window and it wasnt a straightforward process. I had my letter of invitation and handed it and my passport to the official. Then I went next door to the bank to queue behind the same two people to pay my USD 97 in cash to the government and receive a receipt that I took back to the visa window to queue again behind the same two people to exchange for my passport complete with the fresh visa pasted into it.
I followed the same two people to queue for passport control and immigration. There were three pairs of officials on duty behind three windows but it seemed that only one window was open as we were waved away from the nearest windows to the one at the end which seemed to be the only window which was operating. Of the two other people in front of me with whom I had queued several times already, one was an American businessman in the gas industry and the other was a Russian woman visiting family in Ashgabat.
Like most businessmen who travel a lot, he travelled light with just a small case and a laptop as hand luggage so he went straight through, bypassing baggage reclaim to where I and my recently met Russian fellow traveller were heading towards. There was chaos here as there was only one baggage reclaim belt and our luggage had not appeared yet despite the time it had taken to get visas and go through passport control. Next to the belt was a pile of luggage that an airport worker was taking off the conveyor belt and piling up beside the belt. In the corner was a left luggage office and behind the counter was another pile of luggage awaiting collection. I wondered whether reclaiming your luggage was such a drawn out process that locals in the know just walk straight through the exit and either collect their bags later or have their luggage delivered the next day.