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Roberts - On the Ridge Between Life and Death

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Roberts On the Ridge Between Life and Death
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Praise for
On the Ridge Between Life and Death

In a remarkable reexamination of more than 40 years of groundbreaking ascents, Roberts reflects on the lives lostand offers a brutally candid assessment of an avocation that has given him his most piercing moments of joy. His is a fine achievement in adventure writing: Looming over the sweaty-palms-inducing accounts of high-altitude elan is the sober tone of someone who understands all too well the bitter cost of an often deadly pursuit.

Wook Kim, Entertainment Weekly

Nobody alive writes better about mountaineering and its peculiar adherents than David Roberts, my mentor and friend of thirty-some years, and this is Professor Robertss magnum opus. Told with wrenching candor, On the Ridge Between Life and Death may disturb you, or even make you angry, but you will not be able to put it aside.

Jon Krakauer, author of Under the Banner of Heaven: A Story of Violent Faith and Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster

More than a few readers will think of Jon Krakauers Into Thin Air as they delve into this bracing work.[the] balance of joy and terror is what makes Robertss book such an exhilarating read and an intense appraisal of a life spent on the edge.

Publishers Weekly (starred review)

(Critics Choice, * * * *): This is an addiction memoir like no other. Without climbing, would [Roberts] have been a better husband, a better son? It takes another kind of courage just to ask the question.

Pope Brock, People

A climber since his teens, [Roberts] argued that despite the deaths he had witnessed, climbing was worth the risks. Now in his sixties, he sets out to reexamine the tradeoffs. That he does not reach a satisfying conclusion is less important than his searing honesty in exploring this slippery metaphysical slope.

Jill Fredston, The Washington Post Book World

A book of incredible self-examination and penitence that will captivate readersclimbers and nonclimbers alike.

Booklist

David Roberts has crafted a work of staggering introspection, taking responsibility for his passion of bleeding-edge mountaineering. His probing honesty and penitent perspective have caused me to re-evaluate the risk-reward balance of my own passion.

Aron Ralston, author of Between a Rock and a Hard Place

On the Ridge Between Life and Death presents the challenges, risks, and rewards of climbing in an honest and balanced light. In a brutally honest voice, Roberts seeks to answer the question of why we choose dangerous adventures.

Conrad Anker, coauthor of The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mount Everest

The most extraordinary climbing memoir I have read. The eternally damnable questionwhy climb, and is it worth the risk?is at the forefront of Robertss personal investigation. His answers may trouble, and inform, all climbers.

Greg Child, author of Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia

David Roberts has been an inspiration to at least two generations of mountaineers. In this candid and insightful memoir, Roberts recounts his climbing career and ponders if the perils were worth the risks.

Larry Cox, Tucson Citizen

[A] vivid and suspense-filled reexamination of [David Robertss] climbing life. well-written and moving.

Karen Algeo Krizman, Rocky Mountain News

Robertss book is a compelling read and one that begs the larger question for each of us: What makes life worth living?

Staci Matlock, Santa Fe New Mexican

If you climb or are close to someone who does, you will find some striking familiar behaviors detailed as Roberts reveals the frequently messy interior of his heart. Be prepared to dig into your own locked emotional closet as you contemplate his reconciliation of elation and pain brought on by his purest love: the mountains.

Chris Kalous, Climbing

ALSO BY DAVID ROBERTS

The Pueblo Revolt: The Secret Rebellion That Drove the Spaniards Out of the Southwest

Four Against the Arctic: Shipwrecked for Six Years at the Top of the World

Escape from Lucania: An Epic Story of Survival

True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna

A Newer World: Kit Carson, John C. Frmont, and the Claiming of the American West

The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mount Everest (with Conrad Anker)

Escape Routes: Further Adventure Writings of David Roberts

In Search of the Old Ones: Exploring the Anasazi World of the Southwest

Once They Moved Like the Wind: Cochise, Geronimo, and the Apache Wars

Mount McKinley: The Conquest of Denali (with Bradford Washburn)

Iceland: Land of the Sagas (with Jon Krakauer)

Jean Stafford: A Biography

Moments of Doubt: And Other Mountaineering Writings

Great Exploration Hoaxes

Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative

The Mountain of My Fear

Picture 1
SIMON & SCHUSTER PAPERBACKS
Rockefeller Center
1230 Avenue of the Americas
New York, NY 10020

Copyright 2005 by David Roberts
All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.

Simon & Schuster Paperbacks and colophon are registered trademarks of Simon & Schuster, Inc.

The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows:
Roberts, David, date.
On the ridge between life and death: a climbing life reexamined / David Roberts.
p. cm.
Includes index.1. Roberts, David, date. 2. MountaineersUnited StatesBiography. I. Title.
GV199.92R62435 2005
796.52'2'092dc22[B] 2005044109

Visit us on the World Wide Web:
http://www.SimonSays.com

ISBN-13: 978-1-4165-4876-8
ISBN-10: 1-4165-4876-9

In memory of


Gabe Lee

Ed Bernd

Don Jensen

Contents

On the Ridge Between Life and Death
ONE
Gabe

THE TROUBLE BEGAN ON THE FIFTH PITCH. I handed Gabe our hardwarehalf a dozen soft-iron pitons and eight or nine carabiners dangling from a nylon slingand said, On belay. Once again, I had been unable to drive a single piton for my anchor: instead, I had found a bucket-shaped hollow in the ruddy sandstone and sat in it with my back against the right wall, my feet braced against an opposing bulge.

Gabe started up the inside corner, angling left as the arching dihedral dictated his path. The going looked easy, for he was moving with that jerky efficiency that had become his forte during the last three months. My breath escaped in a sigh of well-being. Once again, we were launched on the flight that turned the neurotic thrum of ordinary life into a staccato pulse of purpose.

But there were no cracks for our pitons. That was the trouble with the First Flatironwith all the Flatirons, those massive tilting slabs that stared east from Green Mountain over the mesas above Boulder. Eighty feet up, Gabe sidled left around a protruding arte and passed out of sight. Still he had placed no protection, so as I fed the rope out, I knew my belay was worthless.

The rope stopped. Gabes distant voice: Should I go straight up? Or traverse left?

We had been shouting too much on this climbconferring from a hundred feet apart, as we had forced our way through the routes odd intricacies. The elders in the Colorado Mountain Club who had taught us to climb early that spring had stressed the importance of economy in our shouted signals: On belay!, Climbing!, Slack!, Up rope!the syllables apportioned so that even over a droning wind one call should never be mistaken for its opposite.

Try to go straight up! I yelled back. So the route had seemed to unfold, as I had studied it in binoculars from my home on Bluebell Avenue. Atop this pitch, I thought, we would have it made, with less than 200 feet of easy scrambling to the notch just below the summit.

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