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Marie-José Gransard - Venice: A Literary Guide for Travellers

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Marie-José Gransard Venice: A Literary Guide for Travellers
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Memorys images, once they are fixed in words, are erased, Marco Polo said. Perhaps I am afraid of losing Venice all at once, if I speak of it, or perhaps, speaking of other cities, I have already lost it, little by little. -- Italo Calvino, Invisible Cities Venice, La Serenissima, is one of the most breathtaking cities in the world. A floating labyrinth; the worlds greatest museum, frozen in time; a cultural jewel, slowly sinking into the lagoon from which it rose; tourist-trap, irresistible muse. From its earliest beginnings in the 7th century, Venice has been a magnetic centre of trade and culture, wealth and power and has acted as a crossroads for an array of religious pilgrims and refugees, diplomats, crusading armies and merchants. Later, its fabled beauty and reputation as a haven for freedom of expression seduced some of the most celebrated figures in history: artists such as Durer, Bellini and Turner; writers Dickens, Byron, Kafka, Poe, Rousseau, Thomas Mann, Ruskin and Ezra Pound and composers Mozart, Tchaikovsky, Verdi and Stravinsky.In this riveting guide to literary Venice, the author uncovers the citys myriad secrets, revealing how every floating palace, gilded church and bustling square is imbued with the lives and creations of those who were inspired by the city, which still echoes with their voices.

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Marie-Jos Gransard teaches a course, Venice in Literature, in Cannaregio and conducts tours of the city. She has worked with Hilary Spurling on her biography of Matisse and with Anthony Holden for his biography of Lorenzo Da Ponte. She divides her time between Venice and London.
For Noam, Theo and Sascha
Venice A Literary Guide for Travellers - image 1
Venice A Literary Guide for Travellers - image 2
Contents
Venice A Literary Guide for Travellers - image 3
Bust of the poet Dante at the Arsenale
Palazzo da Silva, where Wotton lived as English ambassador
Statue of Paolo Sarpi by Ponte Santa Fosca, where he was stabbed
Palazzo Mangili-Valmarana, home of Consul Smith at Santi Apostoli
Bust of Petrarch (courtesy of Marciana Library)
Bust of Giuseppe Verdi at Giardini
Bust of Richard Wagner at Giardini
Plaque commemorating Tchaikovsky at Hotel Londra Palace
Palazzo Barbaro, the most famous of Henry Jamess Venetian homes
Window from which Constance Fenimore fell to her death
Box outside the Doges Palace used for letters to denounce citizens
Diaghilevs tomb in San Michele Cemetery
Ponte delle Maravegie D. H. Lawrence lived in the house beside the bridge
Pensione Calcina, one of Ruskins Venetian homes
Palazzo Giustinian, formerly Hotel de lEurope
The angel made Proust a promise of delight
Ca da Mosto, formerly Al Leone Bianco
Plaque on the site of the former Hotel Regina dInghilterra, where Goethe stayed
Plaque commemorating Aretino at the Rialto Market
Plaque in Calle Malipiero, where Casanova was born
Mozarts plaque was mounted on the wrong house at Ponte dei Barcaroli
Statue of Goldoni in Campo San Bartolomeo
View from Room 10 where George Sand and Alfred de Musset stayed (courtesy of the Hotel Danieli)
Casetta Rossa, one of Gabriele DAnnunzios Venetian homes
Casa Romanelli, one of Rilkes Venetian homes
Plaque on Hotel Gabrielli Sandwirth, where Franz Kafka stayed
Hotel Gritti, formerly Casa Wetzlar, where Hemingway stayed
Harrys Bar, most closely associated with Americans in Venice
The Church of San Geremia. Its Scuola dei Morti specialised in relief for the dying
Putto beneath the Fondamenta at the Salute powerless in the face of the constant wave of tourists
Unless stated otherwise, all photos are by the author, Lucio Marco Zorzi and Noam Sala Budgen.
Venice A Literary Guide for Travellers - image 4
Soon after my arrival in Venice 11 years ago, I was invited to give a series of cultural seminars in Italian for adult Venetians; I chose to cover visitors who had left a literary legacy about the city. This book is the result of my research. I embarked on the task with enthusiasm, changing countries of origin each year to avoid repetition. We first looked at English writers and artists, followed by Germans, Spaniards and so on. When we had covered most nationalities, but not all writers by any means, I moved to the largely neglected field of women writers and artists in Venice, including this time native Venetians and others from Europe and the United States. The demi-monde of Venice is a part of this, of course, but I have been led naturally to the theme for my future teaching programme, which will cover the Venetian women who left very different marks on the city and spent their lives involved in manual work, such as the lace-makers, pearl-stringers and milliners. All this is also occasionally recorded in various writings.
I took my students out of the classroom, partly to satisfy my own curiosity about the city, but also to share my exploration with them. Although they had spent their whole lives in Venice, most of them had never been given the opportunity to enter mythical and beautiful palazzi and historic buildings. Many still stay in their own part of the city ( sestiere ) and rarely venture very far beyond it. Discovering the places where writers and artists lived, stayed and worked was a part of the fun, and in a small city like Venice one could make progress in a very short time. Having arranged to visit these private and public places, we talked about the writers lives and circumstances in Venice and read extracts from their writings. This proved popular with the students and we were allowed access to magical places, thanks to the extraordinary hospitality and generosity of their current guardians or owners.
This guide is not intended to be a standard guide to Venice and its sights. Most people reading it will have access to at least one of the legion of specialist guides of the city. I am attempting to show Venice to my reader through the chosen writer or artists eyes, and to indicate, where I can, the places and buildings associated with each one. The layout of Venice has not changed very much in the last five hundred years, and so it is still possible to find many places as the writers found them. One of the main differences will probably be that up to the end of the nineteenth century most people (particularly the wealthy) would have travelled from place to place on the water, generally in a gondola, sometimes privately owned or rented, and would have approached a palace or a house from the waterside ( porta dacqua ). Nowadays most houses and palaces are approached from the less prominent and sometimes hidden service door on the street side.
In spite of years of research in the libraries, walking around, listening and inquiring, I know that I have only scratched the surface. New facts, new stories and new writers appear constantly. One contact leads with serendipity to another. This guide does not therefore claim to give an exhaustive view of writers in Venice. My selection is personal and includes lesser-known writers, in the hope that my readers will share some of the excitement of discovery. As well as professional writers, I have included artists, musicians and ambassadors, as so many wrote evocatively about the city and it would be so difficult to omit them. Their names are in bold in the text to highlight their written legacy or the part they have played in the story of Venice.
Cannaregio
1Palazzo Sceriman
2Palazzo Manfrin
3Palazzo Surian-Bellotto
4Palazzo Michiel
5Palazzo da Silvia
6Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi
7Palazzo Mangili-Valmarana
8Palazzo Gussoni-Grimani della Vida
9Leone Bianco
10Palazzo Algarotti-Corniani
11Palazzo Berlendis
San Marco
12 Lo Scudo di Francia
13 Fondaco dei Tedeschi
14 Locanda del Gallo
15 Palazzo Mocenigo
16 Palazzo Grassi
17 Palazzo Malipiero
18 Palazzo Barbaro
19 Palazzo Giustinian-Lolin
20 Palazzo Bellavite-Soranzo
21 Casetta Rossa
22 Alla Regina dInghilterra
23 Hotel Bauer
24 Ca Dandolo
25 Albergo Luna
26 Palazzo Giustinian (Hotel de lEurope)
27 Hotel Gritti
28 Palazzo Minelli
29 Palazzo Reale (Museo Correr)
30 Ca Falletti
Dorsoduro
31 Calle Querini
32 Palazzo Barbaro-Volkoff
33 Fondamenta degli Incurabili
34 Ca Torressella
35 Pensione La Calcina
36 Palazzo Venier dei Leoni (Guggenheim Collection)
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