George Ernest Morrison - An Australian in China

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Transcriber's Note:

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in this text. For a complete list, please see

The Author in Western China.

AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA

BEING THE NARRATIVE OF A QUIET JOURNEY ACROSS CHINA TO BURMA

BY

GEORGE ERNEST MORRISON

M.D. Edin., F.R.G.S.

THIRD EDITION
LONDON: HORACE COX
WINDSOR HOUSE, BREAM'S BUILDINGS
E.C.
MDCCCCII

---

TO

JOHN CHIENE, M.D.,

F.R.C.S.E., F.R.S.E., ETC.,
PROFESSOR OF SURGERY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH,
WHO GAVE ME BACK THE POWER OF LOCOMOTION.
I GRATEFULLY
INSCRIBE THIS VOLUME.

---

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.	PAGES
IntroductoryMainly about Missionaries and the City of Hankow
CHAPTER II.
From Hankow to Wanhsien, with some Account of Chinese Women and the Rapids of the Yangtse
CHAPTER III.
The City of Wanhsien, and the Journey from Wanhsien To Chungking
CHAPTER IV.
The City of ChungkingThe Chinese CustomsThe famous Monsieur Haas, and a few Words on the Opium Fallacy
CHAPTER V.
The Journey from Chungking to SuifuChinese Inns
CHAPTER VI.
The City of SuifuThe China Inland Mission, with some general Remarks about Missionaries in China
CHAPTER VII.
Suifu to Chaotong, with some Remarks on the Province of YunnanChinese Porters, Postal Arrangements, and Banks
CHAPTER VIII.
The City of Chaotong, with some Remarks on its Poverty, Infanticide, Selling Female Children into Slavery, Tortures, and the Chinese Insensibility to Pain
CHAPTER IX.
Mainly about Chinese Doctors
CHAPTER X.
The Journey from Chaotong to Tongchuan
CHAPTER XI.
The City of Tongchuan, with some Remarks upon Infanticide
CHAPTER XII.
Tongchuan to Yunnan City
CHAPTER XIII.
At Yunnan City
CHAPTER XIV.
Gold, Banks, and Telegraphs in Yunnan
CHAPTER XV.
The French Mission and the Arsenal in Yunnan City
CHAPTER XVI.
The Journey from Yunnan City to Talifu
CHAPTER XVII.
The City of TaliPrisonsPoisoningPlagues and Missions
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Journey from Tali, with some Remarks on the Character of the Cantonese, Chinese Emigrants, Cretins, and Wife-beating in China
CHAPTER XIX.
The Mekong and Salween RiversHow to Travel in China
CHAPTER XX.
The City of TengyuehThe Celebrated Wuntho SawbwaShan Soldiers
CHAPTER XXI.
The Shan Town of Santa, and Manyuen, the Scene of Consul Margary's Murder
CHAPTER XXII.
China as a Fighting PowerThe KachinsAnd the Last Stage into Bhamo
CHAPTER XXIII.
Bhamo, Mandalay, Rangoon, and Calcutta

---

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Mostly from Photographs by Mr. C. Jensen of the Imperial Chinese Telegraphs.

The Author in Western China
The Author's Chinese Passport	page
On a Balcony in Western China
The River Yangtse at Tung-lo-hsia
Memorial Archway at the Fort of Fu-to-kuan
Chungking, from the opposite Bank of the Yangtse
A Temple Theatre in Chungking
On the Main Road To Suifu
Cultivation in Terraces
Scene in Szechuen
Opium-smoking
A Temple in Szechuen
Laowatan
The Opium-smoker of Romance
Pagoda by the Wayside, Western China
The Big East Gate of Yunnan City
View in Yunnan City
Soldiers on the Wall of Yunnan City
The Pagoda of Yunnan City, 250 feet high
The Viceroy of Two Provinces
The Author's Chinese Name
The Giant of Yunnan
The "Eagle Nest Barrier," on the Road to Talifu
Snow-clad Mountains behind Talifu
Memorial in a Temple near Talifu
The Descent to the River Mekong
Inside View of a Suspension Bridge
The River Salween
The River Shweli and its Suspension Bridge
The Suburb beyond the South Gate of Tengyueh
Chinese Map of Chungking
Rough Sketch-map of China and Burma	.

---

AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA.

---

CHAPTER I.

IntroductoryMainly about Missionaries and the City of Hankow.

In the first week of February, 1894, I returned to Shanghai from Japan. It was my intention to go up the Yangtse River as far as Chungking, and then, dressed as a Chinese, to cross quietly over Western China, the Chinese Shan States, and Kachin Hills to the frontier of Burma. The ensuing narrative will tell how easily and pleasantly this journey, which a few years ago would have been regarded as a formidable undertaking, can now be done.

The journey was, of course, in no sense one of exploration; it consisted simply of a voyage of 1500 miles up the Yangtse River, followed by a quiet, though extended, excursion of another 1500 miles along the great overland highway into Burma, taken by one who spoke no Chinese, who had no interpreter or companion, who was unarmed, but who trusted implicitly in the good faith of the Chinese. Anyone in the world can cross over to Burma in the way I did, provided he be willing to exercise for a certain number of weeks or months some endurancefor he will have to travel many miles on foot over a mountainous countryand much forbearance.

I went to China possessed with the strong racial antipathy to the Chinese common to my countrymen, but that feeling has long since given way to one of lively sympathy and gratitude, and I shall always look back with pleasure to this journey, during which I experienced, while traversing provinces as wide as European kingdoms, uniform kindness and hospitality, and the most charming courtesy. In my case, at least, the Chinese did not forget their precept, "deal gently with strangers from afar."

I left Shanghai on Sunday, February 11th, by the Jardine Matheson's steamer Taiwo. One kind friend, a merchant captain who had seen life in every important seaport in the world, came down, though it was past midnight, to bid me farewell. We shook hands on the wharf, and for the last time. Already he had been promised the first vacancy in Jardine Matheson's. Some time after my departure, when I was in Western China, he was appointed one of the officers of the ill-fated Kowshing, and when this unarmed transport before the declaration of war was destroyed by a Japanese gunboat, he was among the slainstruck, I believe, by a Japanese bullet while struggling for life in the water.

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