Transcriber's note:
The original spelling and puncturation have been retained. |
BARN
AND
THE PYRENEES:
A LEGENDARY TOUR
TO THE
COUNTRY OF HENRI QUATRE.
BY
LOUISA STUART COSTELLO,
AUTHOR OF
"the bocages and the vines," "a pilgrimage to auvergne," etc.
With numerous Illustrations.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
1844.
PRINTED BY R. CLAY, BREAD STREET HILL.
TO
MISS BURDETT COUTTS,
THESE VOLUMES
ARE DEDICATED WITH MUCH RESPECT AND AFFECTION
BY
HER SINCERELY OBLIGED
HUMBLE SERVANT,
LOUISA STUART COSTELLO.
London ,
March 16, 1844.
INTRODUCTION.
When I first indulged the inclination, which I had long entertained, of visiting the famous castle of Chinon, and the equally interesting abbey of Fontevraudthe palace and tomb of our English kingsand paused on my way in "the lovely vales of Vire," and gathered in romantic Brittany some of her pathetic legends, I thought I should have satisfied my longing to explore France; but I found that every step I look in that teeming region opened to me new stores of interest; and, encouraged by the pleasure my descriptions had given, I set out again, following another route, to the regal city of Rheims, visiting the vine-covered plains of Champagne and Burgundy, and all their curious historical towns, till I reached the dominion of Charles the Seventh at Bourges, to become acquainted with whose gorgeous cathedral and antique palaces is worth any fatigue. From thence I wandered on to the beautiful Monts Dores, and the basaltic regions of unexplored Le Vellay; and, after infinite gratification, I once more turned my steps homeward; but, like Sindbad, I felt that there was much more yet to be explored; and I had visions of the romantic and delightful realms, which extend where once the haughty heiress of Aquitaine held her poetical courts of Love and Chivalry. The battle-fields of our Black Prince were yet to be traced; the sites of all the legends and adventures of the most entertaining of chroniclers, Froissart, were yet to be discovered; and the land of mountains and torrents, where the Great Barnais passed his hardy childhood, was yet unknown to me.
I therefore again assumed my "cockle hat and staff," and, re-entering the Norman territory, commenced exploring, from the stone bed of the Conqueror, at Falaise, to the tortoise-shell cradle of Henry of Navarre, at Pau.
Not inferior to my two former pilgrimages, in interest, did this my third ramble prove. How many "old romantic towns" I passed through; how much of varied lore I heard and found amongst the still original and, even now, unsophisticated peasantry; how numerous were the recollections which places and things recalled, and how pleasant were the scenes I met, I have endeavoured to tell the lovers of easy adventurefor any traveller, with the slightest enterprise, could accomplish what I have done without fatigue, and with the certainty of being repaid for the exertion of seeking for amusement.
In succession, I paused at Le Mans, the scene of the great Vendean struggle, where the majestic cathedral challenges the admiration of all travellers of taste; at Poitiers, full of antique wonders; in the region of the Serpent lady, Melusine; at Protestant La Rochelle, with all its battlements and turrets, and the most beautiful bathing-establishment in Europe. At mysterious Saintes, and all its pagan temples and arches; at Bordeaux, the magnificent; on the Garonne, and by its robbers'-castles; at Agen, with its barber troubadour; in the haunts of Gaston de Foix and Jeanne d'Albret and her son; in the gloomy valleys of the proscribed Cagot; and where the mellifluous accents of the Basquaise enchant the ear. All the impressions made by these scenes I have endeavoured to convey to my readers, as I did before, inviting them to follow my footsteps, and judge if I have told them true.
CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
HonfleurDejazetThe Sailor PrinceLe MariLisieuxLa Croix BlancheArrival at FalaiseGuibrayCastle of FalaiseThe little RecessArletteThe FatherThe Infant HeroThe UncleArlette's TearsHer Reception.
Prince ArthurWant of Gallantry PunishedThe Recreant SowThe Rocks of NoronLa Grande EperonnireLe Camp-fermeAntiquities of FalaiseAlenonNorman CapsGeeseLe MansTomb of BrangreCathedralAncient RemainsStreetsThe Veiled Figure.
Tomb of BrangreWives of Cur de LionTombsAbbey ChurchesChteau of Le MansDe CraonThe Spectre of Le MansThe VendeansMadame de la Roche-JaquelinA Woman's PerilsDisasters of the VendeansHenriChouans.
The Museum of Le MansVenusMummyGeoffrey-le-BelHis CostumeMatildaScarronHlie de la FlcheRufusThe White Knight.
LudeSaumur RevisitedThe GardenLa Petite VoisineThe Retired MilitaireLes Pierres CouvertesLes Petites PierresLoudunUrbain GrandierRichelieuThe NunsThe VictimThe FlyThe Malle PosteThe Dislodged Serpents.
PoitiersBattlesThe ArmiesKing John of FranceThe Young WarriorHtel des VreuxAmphitheatreBlossacThe Great StoneThe ScholarsMuseumThe Demon's StoneGrande Gueule.
Notre DameThe KeysThe MiracleProcessionSt. RadegondeTomb of the SaintFoot-printLittle LoubetteThe Count OutwittedThe CordelierLate JusticeThe Templars.
Chteau de la FeKing RenThe MiniaturesThe Post-Office FunctionaryOriginalityThe English Bank-noteSt. PorchaireThe Dead ChildMontierneufGuillaume Guy GeoffroyThomas BecketChoir of AngelsRelicsThe Armed HermitA SaintThe Repudiated QueenElionoreThe Bold PriestLay.
MelusineLusignanTrou de la FeThe LegendMale CuriosityThe DiscoveryThe Fairy's ShrieksThe ChroniclerGeoffrey of the Great ToothJaques CurRoyal GratitudeEnemiesJean du VillageWeddingThe BrideThe Tragedy of MauprierThe GardenThe ShepherdessThe Walnut-GatherersLa GtineSt. MaixantNiortMadame de MaintenonEnormous CapsChamois LeatherDuguesclinThe Dame de PlainmartinThe Sea.
La RochelleLes Trois ChandeliersOystersBathing EstablishmentGaietyMilitary DisciplineCurious ArcadesStory of Auffrdy.
TowersReligionMaria BelandelleStormProtestant RetreatSolemn Dinners"Half-and-half"Go to sleep!The BreweryGas EstablishmentChteau of La FontThe Mystery explainedTriumph of Scenery over AppetiteSlave TradeCharles le Bien ServiLiberality of Louis-PhilippeGuitonHouse of Le Maire GuitonThe FleetsThe FightThe Mayor and the Governor.
RochefortThe Curious BonneAmericanismsConvictsThe Charente"Tulipes"TaillebourgHenry the ThirdSt. LouisFalse SecurityRomegouxPuytaill
SaintesRoman Arch of TriumphGothic BridgeThe CoursRuined CityCathedralColignyRuined PalaceSt. EutropeAmphitheatreLegend of Ste. EustelleThe Prince of BabylonFteThe CteauSte. Marie
Frre ChrtienUtility of Custom-house SearchBold VoyagerPauillacBlayeThe GirondeTalbotVinesThe LandesPhantom of King ArthurThe Witch-finderThe LandesWreckers
PortsDivonaBordeauxQuinconcesAllesFirst ImpressionChartronsBahutierBacalanQuaysWhite GuideSte. CroixSt. MichelSt. AndrPretty FigurePretty WomenPalais GallienBlack Prince's Son, Edward.
