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Stephen Graham - A Vagabond in the Caucasus

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A VAGABOND IN THE CAUCASUS TOMB OF A CAUCASIAN CHIEF SHOWING WHAT HE DIED - photo 1
A VAGABOND IN
THE CAUCASUS

TOMB OF A CAUCASIAN CHIEF, SHOWING WHAT HE DIED POSSESSED
OF INCLUDING THE ACTUAL NUMBER OF HIS CARTRIDGES

A VAGABOND IN
THE CAUCASUS
WITH SOME NOTES OF HIS EXPERIENCES
AMONG THE RUSSIANS
BY STEPHEN GRAHAM
WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS
AND TWO MAPS
LONDON JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMXI

Turnbull & Spears, Printers, Edinburgh
CONTENTS
CHAP.PAGE
Prologue: How I came to be a Tramp
I.Robbed in the Train
II.Christmas in Little Russia
III.Mummers at a Country House
IV.At Uncles
V.Among Moscow Students
VI.Love us when we are Dirty, for everyone will love us when we are Clean!
VII.A Night at a Shrine
VIII.The Day after the Feast
IX.A Mushroom Fair in Lent
X.Departure from Moscow
XI.The Coming of Summer in the Caucasus
XII.The Epistle to the Caucasians
XIII.A Mountain Dawn
XIV.Among the Ingooshi
XV.The Iron not made by Hands
XVI.At a Mill on the Terek
XVII.The Gorge of Dariel
XVIII.At a Village Inn
XIX.Through Snow and Ice
XX.Lavrenti Cham Khotadze
XXI.On the Road to Tiflis
XXII.A Two-Hundred-Mile Walk
XXIII.Climbing into Winter
XXIV.A Night in a Koutan
XXV.Over Mamison
XXVI.Arrested
XXVII.Five Days under Arrest
XXVIII.Mr Adam
XXIX.The Baptist Chapel
XXX.The Woman who saw God
XXXI.Ali Pasha
XXXII.The Sorrowing Man
XXXIII.The Cucumber Fair
XXXIV.Over the Caucasus
Epilogue : The Horizon
Appendix : How to get Abouta Chapter for Prospective Tourists
Index
ILLUSTRATIONS
1.Tomb of a Caucasian Chief, showing what he died Possessed of, including the Actual Number of his Cartridges
2.a. Harbour, Nizhni Novgorod
b. Outside a Slum Beerhouse, Moscow
3.a. A Russian Street Scene
b. A Caucasian Chief
4.a. A Street Shrine, Moscow
b. Passion Monastery, Moscow
5.A Group of Caucasian Shepherds
6.Ingoosh Women, with Water-Jar
7.Kazbek Mountain from the North-West
8.Dariel Gorge: Castle of Queen Tamara and Russian Fortress
9.Akhtsauri Glacier, Kazbek
10.Georgian Women
11.A Koutan
12.An Ossetine Dwelling
13.Devdorak Glacier, Gorge of Dariel
14.a. Turning over Cottons
b. An Ossetine Village
15.Kazbek Posting-Station
16.Mleti
MAPS
Map of Russia
Map of Vladikavkaz and District

A VAGABOND IN
THE CAUCASUS

NOTE
Portions of Chapters VI., VII., IX., XI., XXVIII. appeared originally in articles contributed to Country Life, and Chapter XXII. and parts of II., X., XXXIII. in articles contributed to the Pall Mall Gazette, to the Editors of which journals the author desires to make all due acknowledgment.

A VAGABOND IN
THE CAUCASUS
PROLOGUE
HOW I CAME TO BE A TRAMP
I BROUGHT myself up on Carlyle and found him the dearest, gentlest, bravest, noblest man. The Life by Froude was dearer to me than the Gospel of St Matthew, or Hamlet, or Macbeth, and that is saying much if the reader only knew me. Carlyle was so near that I saw him in dreams and spoke with him in words that were true, unquestionably. In the vision world of my dream he behaved exactly as he would have done in real life, I am sure of it. He was flesh and blood to me. Yet he died and was buried before I was born. How strange! This man who died three years before I was born was a friend closer to me than a lover, one to whom I longed to say caressing words, one whom I longed to embrace and fondleto kiss even.
He made me work, the dear, irascible, eloquent old sage. I worked at his bidding and set myself impossible tasksimpossible! I became a puritan, serious, intolerant and heroic; and in moments of rapture, conscious of the silence of the stars and the graves, I would sing to the night the marching song:
Here eyes do regard you
In Eternitys stillness,
Here is all fulness,
Ye brave, to reward you,
Work and despair not.
Carlyle was a true friend to me, he was not content that he only should be my friend, I had to become the friend of his friends. Now, I am one of the Great Society of his friends. I belong to the fellowship of those that have seen The City. The Great Society has among its members many children and many jolly tramps. Has the reader ever been introduced personally to the Great Ones long since dead? I think these literary men the great Friends of Mankind. They allow themselves to be known and cherisheddifferent from military heroes or scientists or explorers. One would as soon love a waxwork as Napoleon. Yet even the despised and rejected of the literary world are warm and smiling friends to their readers. I, for my part, adored Ruskin and Browning as a young girl in love with a new history mistress. I obeyed Ruskin, bought his works in purple calf and looked up the long words in the dictionary. Then Rabbi Ben Ezra entered into me so that I spoke with tongues. I learned the poem by heart and recited it to sunsets. I ask myself now how I reconciled Work and despair not with
Not on the vulgar mass,
Called work must sentence pass.
But of course both sentences are true; one is for one nature, the other for another; I think I must have really belonged to the second category, for have I not become a tramp!
I never felt so humanly close to Ruskin as to Carlyle. He had a way of stating the truth. He liked to perch on his truths and crow. No, I revered him, but decidedly didnt like him. Browning made friends with me. Then came Ibsen; and both Browning and Ibsen confirmed me in the heroism of achieving impossible tasks. Has the reader seen the Master Builder, the man who did the impossible twice? Itsfearfully thrilling. In these days I spouted: Life is like the compound eye of the fly. It is full of lives. Momentarily we died, momentarily are born again. The old self dies, the new is born; the old life gives way to the new. The selfish man wishes to remain as he is; in his life are fewer lives, fewer changes. But the hero wishes to fulfil every promise written in his being. He dies gladly in each moment to arise the next moment more glorious, nearer to perfection. Oh, my friend, pay for the new life with all the old. The life that thou hast, was given thee for paying away so that thou mightest obtain something better.
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