Rita Connelly - Lost Restaurants of Tucson

Published by American Palate

A Division of The History Press

Charleston, SC

www.historypress.net

Copyright 2015 by Rita Connelly

All rights reserved

Cover images: Ronquillos Bakery, Walter L. Goodwin Jr., 1965. Commissioned by the Tucson Art Center. From the collection of the Tucson Museum of Art and Historic Block; Big Boot. Courtesy Drew and Kandie Vactor; Neon Cactus. Courtesy authors collection; Elysian Grove Market. Courtesy Library of Congress; Richilieu restaurant. Courtesy Arizona Historical Society; Mexican food.

Courtesy Creative Commons.

First published 2015

e-book edition 2015

ISBN 978.1.62585.615.9

Library of Congress Control Number: 2015914237

print edition ISBN 978.1.46711.885.9

Notice: The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. It is offered without guarantee on the part of the author or The History Press. The author and The History Press disclaim all liability in connection with the use of this book.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

This book is dedicated to my husband, John Connelly, for his patience, driving skills, support and love. So many of the meals and memories would be nothing without you.

And to Riene Connelly Gelman, for being a wonderful daughter and a great front-of-the-house person and for teaching me so much about food. Like your dad, none of this wouldve been possible without sharing so many meals with you.

For Sam Gelman, a great chef and a great son-in-law.

For Charlie Gelman, my sweet grandson, for all the meals to come.

CONTENTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Megan Laddusaw, my commissioning editor, for her help and support. Also, Ryan Finn, my copyeditor, whose patience knew no bounds. Thanks to the marketing team at The History Press.

Susan Dolan, registrar and collections manager at Tucson Museum of Art, for her help obtaining photos and for all the good meals we shared.

Becky Cowan for answering my shout out for restaurant memorabilia.

Karyn Zoldan and Edie Jarolim for their support and insight.

Norma Gentry for her many connections.

Jimmy Boegle, my editor at the Tucson Weekly, who gave me the job of a lifetime and went along with my idea to feature Sorely Missed Restaurants in that paper.

Drew and Kandie Vactor for The Tack Room story and great images.

Janos Wilder for his fabulous food over the years, his stories and his help with photos.

The Gekas familyKiki Kinkade, Jimmy Gekas and Genie Pattersonfor their family stories, the menus and the connection to Gus Lettas, as well as lunch. Chuck Hamm also had some great stories about his time as a busboy there.

Jim Murphy, Jeff Azersky and Marianne Baines for their collective and individual stories about so many restaurants.

Ellen Burke Van Slyke for taking time out of her busy day and for hiring my daughter many years ago.

Doug Levy for his history and loan of a book of restaurant menus.

Jonathan Landeen, who had information about both Charles and the Solarium and Restaurant Row.

Kim Moran for the stories about her mom and aunts and their Three Sisters Vietnamese restaurant.

Danny Scordato for clearing up the facts.

Alice Mezon and Bryan Mezon for telling me stories of their family and the role it played in both Tucsons history and the culinary scene.

Marguerite Brown and Julie Valenzuela, who were some of my earliest interviewees, and for the cool pictures of Gordo.

Pina Colosimo for seeing me again, the photos and the tiramisu (it was fabulous).

Vince, Assunta and Joe Ali for the beautiful menus, photos and family history.

Matt Russell for promoting me and for all the cool stories about the Steer.

Frank Powers for the great photos of the Grill and Karlen Ross, who managed the Grill. Their input was perfect.

Benny Benedetto for being the best waiter in Tucson and the inside scoop about the Olive Tree.

Michael Veres for notes on Danielsboth of them.

Ryan Clark for his insights on his mentor and friend, Alan Zeman.

Alan Zeman for so many contacts and insights, as well as a nosh.

Steve Marshall for the photos and information and for bringing my husband, John, and me together.

Dr. Patricia Sparks for those photos I really needed and Dr. Jennifer Muir Bowers for the connection to Penelopes.

Dr. Jim Griffith for his stories.

Michelle Araneta and Ginger and Michael Master for reminding me how wonderful their parents were.

Fran Markowitz, a total stranger but new friend, for connecting me to Michael Veres and Jolie Siebert for being a great connection.

Jack Tate and Ralph Avella for their kitchen memories.

Tim Fuller for the beautiful photo of Janos Wilder, even though the photo didnt get used.

Rocco DiGrazia of Roccos Little Chicago for coming into work right after vacation to let me take a photo.

My brother, Stan Postorino, for chatting up a complete stranger in the airport in London, which led to meeting Andrea Davis, that stranger, who gave suggestions and info on the Carousel Gardens and a connection to Jerrys Ming House. Thanks, Andrea.

My sister, Nancy Postorino Reeves, for many years of support.

Joe Abi-Ad for the stories of Le Mediterranean.

Danny Lee for Chinese history, international, national and local.

The team at Arizona Historical Society for their patience and willingness to help me with a million requests, especially Lizeth Zepeda and Caitlin Lampman.

The librarians at Pima County Library.

The librarians at University of Arizona Library Special Collections.

Dwight and Christy Schannep of the American Antique Mall for sharing their collection of postcards and the technical help to save them.

To my friends who contributed their townie knowledge about all those little lost places: Don and Libby Mack, Barry and Susan Frank, Bobby Moreno and Joe and Pam Pierce.

And to all the strangers I met along the way who, once they found out I was writing this book, contributed information just because.

Introduction

TUCSONS TABLES, TUCSONS TASTES

The history of the lost restaurants of Tucson has as much to do with the people as it does the places. The Gekas and Scordato families ran restaurants for decades. Chefs Janos Wilder, Donna Nordin and Alan Zeman were at the forefront of the New Southwestern cuisine. Larry Colligan of the Hidden Valley Inn and Diego A. Valenzuela of Gordos Mexicateria & Mexicatessen became local celebrities due to their television commercials and snappy catchphrases. And over time, a strong bond grew among the owners, chefs and diners.

I spoke to many people to help gather information about the restaurants that are included in this book. Every person I spoke with had their favorites, and all were eager to share. As they started talking, a certain look would come across their faces. Theyd lean in, and you could hear the excitement in their voices. And everyone had a story to tell.

People met their future spouses at this restaurant or got engaged at that restaurant. They celebrated a birth, a graduation or a job promotion at their special spot. A delicious dish was recalled. Names of favorite servers brought smiles to their faces. There were plenty of work-related stories, as well. I was amazed and grateful by the variety and passion.