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Lawney L. Reyes - B Street: The Notorious Playground of Coulee Dam

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Lawney L. Reyes B Street: The Notorious Playground of Coulee Dam
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    B Street: The Notorious Playground of Coulee Dam
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B Street: The Notorious Playground of Coulee Dam: summary, description and annotation

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B Street tells intimate stories about the street of shops, restaurants, bars, and brothels where the workmen who built the Grand Coulee Dam spent their recreational hours and wages. From the beginning, B Street was the place to play and let off steam for the white workingmen who had faced the hard times of the Depression. It was a raucous playground that denied blacks and most dark-skinned Indians access to the frivolity, good times, and pretty ladies that were the main attractions of that provocative place.

This vivid story of a colorful era is based largely on the memories of Lawney L. Reyes. As a young boy he wandered B Street with his little sister, Luana, and their dog, Pickles, while their Indian mother and Filipino father eked out a living running a Chinese restaurant. His mothers diary and the stories told by his parents and older members of the Sin-Aikst tribe contribute to his story.

Reyes tells of hard times, dreams, and extreme courage and reveals the humor, toughness, and recklessness of the adventurers who came to work on the dam. He also describes the history and culture of the Indians whose villages were flooded and whose way of life was irrevocably changed by the building of the Grand Coulee Dam.

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I want to acknowledge the stories told to me by my dad, Julian, after I had grown up. They reinforced my memories of those early years. Harry Wong also shared stories about living in Grand Coulee. Much later, Dewey Hall told me of his adventures and good times when he worked and played there. The personal diary of my mother, Mary, imparted a wealth of information about B Street and the Inchelium area. These were given credence by talks with Edo Quill, my mother's best friend.

Most of the accounts of Luana, Pickles, and myself come from my memories of those days, which are still a part of me. My older cousin Eneas Boyd and his friend Antoine Paul substantiated these and related stories with their recollections.

Dennis King, a resident of Grand Coulee, helped in the early stages of this book. He showed me several photographs of the construction of the dam along with others of B Street in the early days. He took time to explain them to me. A number of these photographs appear in the book. Dennis shared stories he had heard about the dam. He told me about the last salmon runs, past the dam, that occurred in 1938 and introduced me to men who had worked on the dam and run businesses during that time. Some of these men still live in the Grand Coulee area.

Chuck Hall and his wife, Linda, provided other material. Chuck was the general foreman for Vinnell Construction Company, a subcontractor at the dam site. He was in charge of cleanup and concrete. Chuck shared important information about the construction of the dam, and Linda recalled life around Grand Coulee Center during the construction days. She informed me that she steered clear of B Street because of the things that went on there but shared her overall insight on Grand Coulee and the nightly activities on B Street.

Bill Miller, a resident of Electric City, voiced other memories. He was the foreman of mechanics for the Bureau of Reclamation. Bill was in charge of ordering supplies for all internal combustion engines, such as trucks, cranes, and forklifts. He shared information on the construction of the dam and talked about a number of his experiences on B Street.

Jean Nicholson, a Grand Coulee historian, provided a wealth of information on Grand Coulee Center and B Street. She had lived in the area and could remember what happened year by year. Jean has written articles about the Grand Coulee area. She was like a walking history book. Her husband, Jack, was a newspaper boy during those times and made deliveries to the Woo Dip restaurant. He offered other information about the ladies of the night and how he grew to value their kind treatment of him. Both Jean and Jack shared their recollections and encouraged me to write this book.

Trudi Tonasket, a teacher at the high school in Inchelium and a member of the Lakes (Sin-Aikst) Tribe, introduced me to the Ceremony of Tears. She also found important photographs of Inchelium that she shared with me, one showing the Columbia River rising. Two of these are in the book. This helped bring my stories full circle and provide a proper ending.

Important old photographs were given new life through the diligent and professional ability of Bob Morrisson. His editing and restoration of the photos are an essential part of this book. I wish to extend my gratitude to Bob for his valuable input.

Rod Hartman, a resident of Grand Coulee, provided information about the Roosevelt Theater in Grand Coulee when his father managed it. He explained that the theater provided entertainment to the residents of both Grand Coulee and B Street.

Therese Kennedy Johns deserves most of the credit for the completion of this book. She devoted days, weeks, and months that turned into years to the refinement of the manuscript. She aided me immensely with her advice, creativity, research, and fact finding. Therese was the initial editor of the work. This book is as much hers as it is mine.

I also want to thank University of Washington Press editors Marilyn Trueblood and Laura Iwasaki and designer Pamela Canell for their thoughtful help in producing this book.

Finally, I must express my appreciation to Naomi Pascal, former editor-in-chief of the University of Washington Press. Her meaningful and continued guidance directed me in finding my way.

LAWNEY L REYES graduated from the University of Washington in 1959 after - photo 1

LAWNEY L. REYES graduated from the University of Washington in 1959 after attending the Chemawa Indian School in Oregon. A former art director for the Seafirst Corporation and a member of the Seattle Arts Commission, he has won numerous awards, including a Peace and Friendship Award for contributions to American Indian Art, a Washington Governor's Award for sculpture, and a Distinguished Alumnus Award from the University of Washington. He is the author of White Grizzly Bear's Legacy: Learning to Be Indian and Bernie Whitebear: An Urban Indian's Quest for Justice. He lives in Seattle.

1
MOCCASIN TELEGRAPH

Early in the morning, during late spring of 1934, Antoine Paul saddled two of his horses, a bay and a black, which he always kept in a small corral near his cabin. He was a tall, lanky man of twenty-one years. He had straight dark brown hair, and his complexion was medium bronze. Antoine had a narrow aquiline nose that reminded one of the beak of an eagle. His deep-set dark eyes and high cheekbones revealed his Sin-Aikst ancestry.

Antoine led the horses from the corral. His legs were slightly bowed from years of riding horses. He mounted the bay easily and rode effortlessly, as if born to ride, his frame swaying in rhythm to the bay's gait.

Antoine led the black past the town of Inchelium that morning on his way to meet Eneas Boyd, his friend. Inchelium, a community of about 250, bordered the Swah net ka (Columbia River) on the Colville Indian Reservation, about seventy miles upriver from the Grand Coulee. Antoine and Eneas had spent their entire lives there.

Eneas would accompany Antoine hunting in the hills above the little town. Antoine rode his bay slowly, methodically drawing on his handmade smoke as he led the black along the outskirts of town and then north along the Swah net ka.

The rough pine houses in Inchelium showed a variety of knots in the siding - photo 2

The rough pine houses in Inchelium showed a variety of knots in the siding, decorating the buildings in a pleasing natural way. The unpainted siding had aged and turned varying degrees of dark brown and gray over the years. Rusted nail heads dotted the lumber. In some places, the shanks of rusted nails were visible, pulled by the breathing and buckling of uncured lumber over the decades. The small houses all had tarpaper roofs that had aged to a soft gray. They had the appearance of having been built by the same person. There was a similarity about them that seemed to suggest they might be in some way related.

Tepees here and there indicated that some of the residents were still doggedly adhering to traditions. Outhouses placed close to the houses suggested that they were companions in need. Antoine smiled as he remembered that during Halloween the outhouses were the first to go. Young people did not go trick-or-treating because no one had anything to give. But boys would go around at night, after most people were asleep, and tip over the outhouses. He remembered doing that himself when he was young. Antoine also remembered how angry the adults became when they discovered the young boys misdeeds the following morning.

A few of the houses had wooden fences around them, not always in the best of repair. There were no manicured lawns, no exotic deciduous trees, except for the chokecherries, willows, and occasional serviceberries that lined the Swah net ka. A few lilac bushes contributed beauty and fragrance to the town. An occasional pine tree shaded houses that were close by. A huge forest of pine, fir, and tamarack surrounded the little town, dotted here and there by groves of aspen. Wild grass, cheatgrass, and an assortment of weeds covered the areas surrounding many of the houses. Hard-packed trails had been formed by years of use where constructed walks might be expected.

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