Balaz - Utah: an explorers guide

Copyright 2009 by Christine Balaz

First Edition

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any way by electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages.

ISBN 978-0-88150-738-6

Cover photo Micah May

All interior photos by Christine Balaz unless otherwise noted

Book design by Bodenweber Design

Page composition by PerfecType, Nashville, TN

Maps by Mapping Specialists Ltd., Madison, WI 2009 The Countryman Press

Published by The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, Vermont 05091

Distributed by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc., 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

Printed in the United States of America

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Welcome to this first edition of Utah: An Explorers Guide. As an imported resident of the state, I have used my insiders knowledge of its resources and drawn upon my experience as a newcomer to create a guide that would include all of the states most famous offerings, as well as its lesser known but equally important assets. I compiled these listings with attention to variety of interest, price, region, and importance. If you discover that I have missed something that should have been included, please be in touch. My goal is to create the best guide possible, and though Ive worked incredibly hard to do so, it is impossible to attain perfection alone.

This is a quick hits list. Be sure to browse these; it will only take a minute. Likely youll come across many topics that may surprise you, or that address nagging concerns such as the grid system and liquor laws. These also may inspire you to check out various items that you hadnt previously been aware of.

Lodging in Utah varies wildly from city to city as well as town to town. Resort towns have many hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, vacation rentals, and the like. In these towns, I list lodgings with many subheadings. Other towns put their visitors up differently; though they may be very popular destinations, their lodging might be entirely composed of national-brand hotels. Though these establishments require no descriptions, they can be completely booked during peak season. In these situations, I give a laundry list of these establishments, so you have as many options as possible to conform to your travelers points or personal biases, or to simply have a chance of finding a vacancy. The bottom line is that I want this guidebook to be as resourceful as possible, and its usefulness not limited by any kind of imposed format.

Restaurants have been divided into two rough categories: the more formal Dining Out and the more casual Eating Out. Casual does not necessarily mean lesser quality, but generally describes a less expensive, more informal atmosphere and a faster experience. When I categorize a restaurant as being more formal, I imagine a place fit for a slow-paced romantic or business dinner, complete with bottles of wine and attractive dcor and plating.

This symbol indicates an establishment, activity, or destination particularly well suited to the interests of children and families.

The paw print indicates a pet-friendly establishment, or a place where dogs are allowed to roam off-leash.

This symbol indicates a restaurant, hotel, or any sort of attraction with especially good value.

Where you see a leaf before an entry, you know it is an establishment that purchases wind power, has green architecture, or is otherwise environmentally friendly.

Suggestions are always appreciated. Please send them to Explorers Guide Editor, The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, VT 05091.

Utah is one of the most misunderstood states and best-kept secrets in the nation. It is represented by such a huge collection of ideas, but most people choose to only consider a handful: Mormons and skiing, or perhaps red rocks and sandstone arches. In fact, Utah has all of these and much more, in scope and depth more substantial than most could imagineeven those who have spent their entire lives here.

I grew up in the Bridger Mountains near Bozeman, Montana, close enough to visit Utah, but not close enough to really understand it. I remember thinking Utah was a geographically perfect state with some serious hang-ups. I knew of its red deserts, huge mountains, vast wilderness, its genuine metropolis, and Great Salt Lake. I knew Utah had bigger mountains and more snow than any place around, great rock climbing, dozens of universities, lunar desertscapes, and professional sports teams. But I also heard strange rumors of its Mormon residents.

Utah indeed has it all; it has everything I thought it had: the mountains and the Mormons (called Latter-day Saints). Ive lived in this state now for three years and have learned a lot. It turns out this religion is one of the states best assets. It is what enabled these arid lands to be settled in the first place. It gives the area religious significance, and its history gives Utah vividness. Today, the creeds of the religion go a long way toward keeping the city streets clean and safe, even if only about two-fifths of Salt Lake City is Mormon.

Utah has one of the most diverse geographies that can be drawn into the borders of any single state. It has high plains, sculpted sandstone formations, lush green canyons, severe desert salt flats, and the sky-scraping Rocky Mountains. Spanning the middle latitudes of the United States and 2 vertical miles in elevation, it has a climate made-to-order. Southern Utah shares the same weather as Las Vegas; northern Utah experiences the same seasons as Wyoming and Idaho. Sunny valleys radiate with warmth, and mountain towns enjoy crisp air in the summer months. Salt Lake City enjoys moderate winters, while resorts only 30 minutes up-canyon are buried annually under 500 inches of the worlds best snow.

It is of course true that Salt Lake City is home to the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Mormonism is a keystone in Utahs fascinating and turbulent biography, and gives the region a special richness. However, it is hardly the only cultural dimension. Contrary to popular myths, this state is populated with a diverse collection of religions and heritages, all of which have arrived in this state by way of a most interesting journey. Utah is home to some of the Intermountain Wests oldest Catholic and Thai societies, historic mining and industrial communities, and Ute, Paiute, Shoshone, Dine, and Goshute tribes.