Sidney Mintz - Tasting Food, Tasting Freedom: Excursions into Eating, Power, and the Past
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Tasting Food, Tasting Freedom: Excursions into Eating, Power, and the Past
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A renowned anthropologist explores the history and meaning of eating in America.Addressing issues ranging from the global phenomenon of Coca-Cola to the diets of American slaves, Sidney Mintz shows how our choices about food are shaped by a vast and increasingly complex global economy. He demonstrates that our food choices have enormous and often surprising significance.
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Beacon Press 25 Beacon Street Boston, Massachusetts 02108-2892
Beacon Press books are published under the auspices of the Unitarian Universalist Association of Congregations.
1996 by Sidney W. Mintz All rights reserved "Grace to Be Said at the Supermarket" by Howard Nemerov is reprinted with the permission of Margaret Nemerov. Printed in the United States of America
01 00 8 7 6 5 4
Text design by Iris Weinstein Composition by Wilsted & Taylor Printed on acid-free paper
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data can be found on page 150.
Page v
To my sisters Alice and Vivian and to the memory of Evelyn and to their husbands Eli, Sid, and Morrie
Page vii
Grace to Be Said at the Supermarket
That God of ours, the Great Geometer, Does something for us here, where He hath put (if you want to put it that way) things in shape, Compressing the little lambs in orderly cubes, Making the roast a decent cylinder, Fairing the ellipsoid of a ham, Getting the luncheon meat anonymous In squares and oblongs with the edges beveled Or rounded (streamlined, maybe, for greater speed).
Praise Him, He hath conferred aesthetic distance Upon our appetites, and on the bloody Mess of our birthright, our unseemly need, Imposed significant form. Through Him the brutes Enter the pure Euclidean kingdom of number, free of their bulging and blood-swollen lives They come to us holy, in cellophane Transparencies, in the mystical body,
That we may look unflinchingly on death As the greatest good, like a philosopher should. Howard Nemerov
Page ix
Contents
Preface
xi
1. Introduction
1
2. Food and Its Relationship to Concepts of Power
17
3. Tasting Food, Tasting Freedom
33
4. The Conquest of Honey by Sucrose
50
5. Sugar and Morality
67
Page x
6. Color, Taste, and Purity
84
7. Cuisine: High, Low, and Not at All
92
8. Eating American
106
Notes
125
Works Cited
135
Index
145
Page xi
Preface
My father was a cook. One of my sisters corrected me for years, insisting that he was a restaurateur. But I know that he was a cook. Only by the oddest of routesthe sort people made rootless by circumstance must sometimes takedid he arrive at cooking for a living.
When my parents, not yet married, reached New York City from the village slums of eastern Europe at the start of this century, my father, Shlomo ("Solomon") Mintz, was a diemaker, freshly discharged from the Czarist army, after six years' service in a signal battalion. My mother, Fromme Leah ("Fannie") Mintz, who had been in the Bund, a Jewish socialist organization sternly proscribed by the Czarist government, became a seamstress in a New York sweatshop. Soon enough she joined the In-
Page xii
dustrial Workers of the World, or "Wobblies," as they were called, as an organizer in the New York garment trade. Her parents did not approve and the job did not pay well.
Nor did men's work. According to my father, diemaking was paying $3.50 a week in New York City in 1901. He took a job as a clothing salesman on Canal Street, working for a distant relative, and apparently hated every minute of it. But that is a different story.
When my parents decided to get marriedthey were first (cross) cousins, and it was a common Ashkenazic practicemy mother made emigration to a small town far from New York City a precondition, saying that she didn't want to raise children in a city. In response my father wrote to an old army friend, Ben Dorfman, who at that time was washing dishes in a diner in Dover, New Jersey. Ben, an orphan, had played the tuba in the military band quartered in the same divisional headquarters as my father's signal corps battalion.
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