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Elise Whitlock Rose - Cathedrals and Cloisters of the South of France, Volume 1

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CATHEDRALS AND CLOISTERS OF THE SOUTH OF FRANCE Front Cover Rodez Sheer - photo 1
CATHEDRALS AND CLOISTERS
OF THE SOUTH OF FRANCE
Front Cover

Rodez.
Sheer and straight the pillars rise, ...
and arch after arch is lost on the shadows of
the narrow vaulting of the side-aisle.

CATHEDRALS
and CLOISTERS
OF THE
SOUTH OF FRANCE
BY
ELISE WHITLOCK ROSE
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS
BY
VIDA HUNT FRANCIS
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOLUME I.
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
NEW YORK AND LONDON
The Knickerbocker Press
1906

Copyright, 1906
by
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS

PREFACE.
For years the makers of this book have spent the summer time in wandering about the French country; led here by the fame of some old monument, or there by an incident of history. They have found the real, unspoiled France, often unexplored by any except the French themselves, and practically unknown to foreigners, even to the ubiquitous maker of guide-books. For weeks together they have travelled without meeting an English-speaking person. It is, therefore, not surprising that they were unable to find, in any convenient form in English, a book telling of the Cathedrals of the South which was at once accurate and complete. For the Cathedrals of that country are monuments not only of architecture and its history, but of the history of peoples, the psychology of the christianising and unifying of the barbarian and the Gallo-Roman, and many things besides, epitomised perhaps in the old words, the struggle between the world, the flesh, and the devil. In French, works on Cathedrals are numerous and exhaustive; but either so voluminous as to be unpractical except for the specialistas the volumes of Viollet-le-Duc,or so technical as to make each Cathedral seem one in an endless, monotonous procession, differing from the others only in size, style, and age. This is distinctly unfair to these old churches which have personalities and idiosyncrasies as real as those of individuals. It has been the aim of the makers of this book to introduce, in photograph and in story,not critically or exhaustively, but suggestively and accurately,the Cathedral of the Mediterranean provinces as it exists to-day with its peculiar characteristics of architecture and history. They have described only churches which they have seen, they have verified every fact and date where such verification was possible, and have depended on local tradition only where that was all which remained to tell of the past; and they will feel abundantly repaid for travel, research, and patient exploration of towers, crypts, and archives if the leisurely traveller on pleasure bent shall find in these volumes but a hint of the interest and fascination which the glorious architecture, the history, and the unmatched climate of the Southland can awaken.
For unfailing courtesy and untiring interest, for free access to private as well as to ecclesiastical libraries, for permission to photograph and copy, for unbounding hospitality and the retelling of many an old legend, their most grateful thanks are due to the Catholic clergy, from Archbishop to Cur and Vicar. For rare old bits of information, for historical verification, and for infinite pains in accuracy of printed matter, they owe warm thanks to Mrs. Wilbur Rose, to Miss Frances Kyle, and to Mrs. William H. Shelmire, Jr. For criticism and training in the art of photographing they owe no less grateful acknowledgment to Mr. John G. Bullock and Mr. Charles R. Pancoast.
E. W. R.
V. H. F.

CONTENTS.



  • PAGE

  • The South of France
  • I. The South of France
  • II. Architecture in Provence, Languedoc, qnd Gascony

  • Provence
  • I. The Cathedrals of the Sea
  • MarseillesToulonFrjusAntibesNice
  • II. Cathedrals Of The Hill-towns
  • CarpentrasDigneForcalquierVenceGrasse
  • III. River-side Cathedrals
  • AvignonVaisonArlesEntrevauxSisteron
  • IV. Cathedrals of the Valleys
  • OrangeCavaillonAptRiezSenezAix

  • Languedoc
  • I. Cathedrals of the Cities
  • NmesMontpellierBziersNarbonnePerpignan
  • CarcassonneCastresToulouseMontauban

Illustrations
  • Page

  • Rodez
  • Sheer and straight the pillars rise, ...
  • and arch after arch is lost on the shadows of
  • the narrow vaulting of the side-aisle.
  • Carcassonne, the invulnerable
  • The Tower of an early maritime Cathedral Agde
  • A nave of the earlier style Arles
  • A nave of the later style Rodez
  • The delicate choir of Saint-Nazaire Carcassonne
  • A cloister of the South Elne
  • A Romanesque aisle Arles
  • The sculptured portals of Saint-trophime Arles
  • A Gothic aisle Mende
  • Corresponding differences in style Carcassonne
  • Fortified Gothic built in brick Albi
  • A church fortress Maguelonne
  • Stately Gothic splendour Condom
  • Entrevaux
  • People gather around the mail-coach as it makes its
  • daily halt before the drawbridge.
  • The new Cathedral Marseilles
  • The desecration of the little cloister Frjus
  • The military omenthe tower Antibes
  • The interior of Notre-dame-du-bourg Digne
  • The interior has neither clerestory nor triforium Digne
  • A large square tower served as a lookout Forcalquier
  • A suggestive view from the side-aisle Forcalquier
  • The old round arch of the Bishop's Palace Vence
  • The low, broad arches, and the great supporting pillars Vence
  • Higher than them all stands the Cathedral Grasse
  • The pont d'Avignon
  • The interior has a shallow, gracefully balustraded balcony Avignon
  • The porch, so classic in detail AVIGNON
  • From an old print
  • Notre-Dame-des-Doms Avignon
  • The Tower of Philip the Fair Villeneuve-les-Avignon
  • The great Palace Avignon
  • On the banks of a pleasant little river is Vaison
  • The ruined castle of the Counts of Toulouse Vaison
  • The whole apse-end Vaison
  • The south wall, which is clearly seen from the road Vaison
  • Two bays open to the ground Vaison
  • The great piers and small firm columns Vaison
  • In the midst of the wealth of antique ruins Arles
  • The faade of saint-trophime Arles
  • Right detailthe portal Arles
  • Left detailthe portal Arles
  • Through the cloister arches Arles
  • A nave of great and slender height Arles
  • The beauty of the whole Arles
  • The Gothic walk CloisterArles
  • This interior Entrevaux
  • The Romanesque walk CloisterArles
  • One of the three small drawbridges Entrevaux
  • The Portcullis Entrevaux
  • A fort that perches on a sharp peak Entrevaux
  • A true 'Place d'Armes' Entrevaux
  • The long line of walls that zigzag down the hillside Entrevaux
  • The church tower stood out against the rocky peak Entrevaux
  • The Cathedral is near the heavy round towers of the outer ramparts Sisteron
  • The bridge across the Durance
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