Hamilton - Force of Nature

Were all human, which means we all have the same opportunities and the same struggles. Its all about that voice inside our head that we call our mindwhat it leads us to believe determines how we act and how our lives unfold. Which is why when I catch myself thinking bleak thoughts, Ill go out and do something physically strenuous, like clear brush or move rocks or paddle down the coast.

I believe that our thoughts have real, powerful effects on us. For instance, lets say you wake up one morning in a rotten mood. You dont know why, but youre just looking for a fight. Well, in my experience, the moment you walk out your front door youre going to find someone who wants to fight you back. Hell probably be standing right there. On the other hand, if youre just thinking about enjoying yourself, youre probably not running into a lot of complications. Everything comes down to attitude: You determine what yours is, and the external world will reflect it back.

Whether thats good news or bad news depends on youon your outlook. If you think youre not able to do something, guess what? Youre right. What if you believe that everythings for the best and see the beauty all around you, and you have faith that things will be good? Youre right, too. If you cultivate something in your mind, you give it a life. Its really that simple.

A LITTLE ADRENALINE EVERY DAY
KEEPS THE BOREDOM AWAY.

When I was 10, my step father took me to Waimea Falls on Oahu. I walked to the edge of a 60-foot cliff, and when he looked away, I jumped. For whatever reason, from the start its been in my spirit to do those kinds of things. Ive always wanted to jump from the highest place, experience the greatest thrill.

I may be an extreme case, but we all need to take risks. I think it goes back to our primitive state, our deepest DNA, when we were hunters and had to avoid getting eaten by large animals. Survival meant risk. The need for adventure is part of human nature. Its in every cell of our bodies. When some people hear the word risk, they think of life-or-death situations that theyd rather avoid. But risk doesnt always have to be life threatening. It can be as simple as putting yourself in an unfamiliar situation.

Some people dont need to go out of their way to seek risk. If you live in Afghanistan, for instance, youre not in need of any extra uncertainty. But for those of us who are fortunate enough to live in places where our lives are relatively safe, I think if we challenged ourselveseven scared ourselvesonce a day, wed be better people. It helps to have that little jolt of perspective to remind you that lifes fragile.

The distinction between being courageous and being reckless is an important one. Courageous means youre able to calculate what youre doing. In my life Ive taken calculated risks, as well as inadvertent risks. Ive seen 18-foot-long tiger sharks in the water with me; Ive been trapped under waterfalls. My mom was surprised that I made it to my 20th birthday. I guess its the whole nine lives thing. There were a few close calls, but Im still here. Ive got a few of those nine lives left.

Teahupoo, Tahiti
August 17, 2000