C HRISTOPHER P. B AKER
Copyright 2011 by Christopher P. Baker
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Panam
A CKNOWLEDGMENTS
I could not have prepared this book without the help of a coterie of other people. Particular thanks go to Brian Rudert, of USAID; Annie Dooner; Barry Robbins and Jane Walker, of the Coffee Estate Inn, in Boquete; Carmen Chen, of Gamboa Tours; Hernn Araz, of Ancn Expeditions; Jos Abadi, of La Fortuna (the real 'Tailor of Panama'); Kathy de Guardia, Director of Marketing for the Instituto Panameo de Turismo; Melva Quintero, of Canal & Bay Tours; Octavio Abad, Marketing Coordinator for the Autoridad de Turismo de Panama; Pierre Cruz, of Hotel El Panam Summit; Romano Orlich, of Finca Lerida; and Teresa Arosemena, of the Autorida del Canal de Panam. Dozens of others helped me in ways large or small. Thank you one and all.
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Introduction
A Rip Van Winkle of Central American tourism, Panams time has arrived. The country has witnessed a phenomenal real estate boom in recent years. And then theres the Canal. Not only is it a tourist draw of mega-importance (as well as the worlds most concentrated highway of liquid commerce), it now promises to adrenaline-charge Panams glowing stature, as an entirely new canal capable of handling tomorrows mega-megaships is being built parallel to the existing canal. The $5 billion project can only spell a spectacular future for Panam, focusing international eyes on the country.
The Canals importance has traditionally blind-sided potential visitors to the nations diverse and remarkable treasures. In the past two years, however, tourism has exploded out of nowhere. Folks who have long known about neighboring Costa Rica have suddenly cottoned to Panams natural wonders, not least its untapped national parks protecting lowland rain forests, to montane cloud forests teeming with exotic animals and birds (more species, in fact, than in Costa Rica). And whereas Costa Rica is depauperate when it comes to colorful indigenous cultures, Panam boasts three vibrant Indian groups (the Kuna, Ember, and Ngbe-Bugl), each as distinct as a thumbprint.
Then theres Panam City, the capital city combining a fabulous colonial core (now in the midst of restoration) with a thoroughly cosmopolitan modern quarter with casinos, world-class dining, and glittering skyscrapers that scratch the sky. Theres no shortage of castles brimming with spine-chilling history. And the Azuero Peninsulayes, I know, youve never heard of it!offers a jaw-dropping combination of sleepy colonial villages; world-class surfing beaches; and a string of wildlife refuges protecting species from roseate spoonbills and flamingoes to humpback whales and Ridley turtles, which come ashore in arribadas battalions of 10,000 or more individuals at a time! Plus, the sportfishing and scuba diving are sublime. And the spectacular beaches that have long been the preserve of moneyed locals are suddenly making international news.