The New Connoisseurs Guidebook
to California Wine and Wineries
Charles E. Olken
Joseph Furstenthal
U N I V E R S I T Y O F C A L I F O R N I A P R E S S
B E R K E L E Y L O S A N G E L E S L O N D O N
University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu.
University of California Press
Berkeley and Los Angeles, California
University of California Press, Ltd.
London, England
2010 by the Regents of the University of California
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Olken, Charles E.
The new connoisseurs guidebook to California wine and wineries / Charles E. Olken, Joseph Furstenthal.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-520-25313-1 (pbk.: alk. paper)
1. Wine and wine makingCalifornia. 2. WineriesCaliforniaGuidebooks. I. Furstenthal, Joseph. II. Title. III. Title: California wine and wineries.
TP557.O438 2010
641.2209794dc22 2010010390
Manufactured in the United States of America
16 15 14 13 12 11 10
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
The paper used in this publication meets the minimum
requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (R 1997)
(Permanence of Paper).
CONTENTS
USING THIS BOOK AND ITS WINE RATINGS
PART ONE
A CALIFORNIA WINE PRIMER
Grape and Wine Types
PART TWO
CALIFORNIA WINE REGIONS AND WINERIES
LIST OF WINE REGIONS
Alameda County 288
Alexander Valley 88
Alta Mesa 382
Amador County 368
Anderson Valley 64
Apple Hill 368
Arroyo Grande Valley 329
Arroyo Seco 314
Atlas Peak 166
Ben Lomond Mountain 290
Benmore Valley 70
Bennett Valley 89
Borden Ranch 382
Calaveras County 370
Calistoga 166
Capay Valley 384
Carmel Valley 314
Carneros (Los Carneros) 90, 168
Central Coast 290, 318
Central Valley 382
Chalk Hill 90
Chalone 314
Chiles Valley 168
Cienega Valley 317
Clarksburg 384
Clear Lake 70
Clements Hills 384
Cole Ranch 66
Contra Costa County 291
Cosumnes River 385
Covelo 66
Cucamonga Valley 394
Cuyama Valley 346
Diablo Grande 385
Diamond Mountain District 169
Dos RIOS 66
Dry Creek Valley 90
Dunnigan Hills 385
Edna Valley 330
El Dorado 370
El Dorado County 370
Fair Play 371
Fiddletown 371
Green Valley of Russian River Valley 91
Guenoc Valley 70
Hames Valley 315
Happy Canyon 346
High Valley 71
Howell Mountain 169
Jahant 385
Knights Valley 92
Lake County 68
Leona Valley 394
Lime Kiln 317
Livermore Valley 291
Lodi 386
Madera 387
Malibu-Newton Canyon 396
Mariposa County 371
McDowell Valley 67
Mendocino 67
Mendocino County 63
Mendocino Ridge 67
Merritt Island 388
Mokelumne River 388
Monterey 315
Monterey County 311
Mount Harlan 317
Mount Veeder 169
Napa Valley 170
Nevada County 371
North Coast 71
North Yuba 372
Northern Sonoma 93
Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley 171
Oakville 172
Pacheco Pass 318
Paicines 318
Paso Robles 330
Petaluma Gap 93
Placer County 371
Potter Valley 67
Ramona Valley 396
Red Hills Lake County 71
Redwood Valley 68
River Junction 388
Rockpile 94
Russian River Valley 94
Rutherford 172
Saddle Rock-Malibu 396
Salado Creek 389
San Antonio Valley 315
San Benito 318
San Benito County 311
San Bernabe 315
San Francisco Bay 288
San Francisco County 292
San Lucas 316
San Luis Obispo County 329
San Mateo County 292
San Pasqual Valley 396
San Ysidro District 293
Santa Barbara County 345
Santa Clara County 292
Santa Clara Valley 293
Santa Cruz Mountains 293
Santa Lucia Highlands 316
Santa Maria Valley 348
Santa Ynez Valley 348
Seiad Valley 389
Shenandoah Valley of California 372
Sierra Foothills 367
Sloughouse 389
Solano County 294
Solano County Green Valley 294
Sonoma Coast 96
Sonoma Mountain 96
Sonoma Valley 96
South Coast 396
Spring Mountain District 173
St. Helena 174
Sta. Rita Hills/Santa Rita Hills 348
Stags Leap District 173
Suisun Valley 294
Temecula Valley 397
Tracy Hills 389
Trinity Lakes 389
Tuolumne County 371
Ventura County 349
Wild Horse Valley 175
Willow Creek 390
York Mountain 332
Yorkville Highlands 68
Yountville 175
LIST OF MAPS
PREFACE
IT IS NOW THREE DECADES SINCE MY FIRST BOOK , The Connoisseurs Handbook of California Wines, appeared in print. In that era, it was easy to cover virtually every winery and to extend the book's reach to Oregon and Washington. There was nothing comprehensive in print covering West Coast wines, and those books that had earlier described the California wine scene had been made obsolete by the industrys rapid expansion in the early 1970s. At the same time, the extraordinary quality improvements being made by new and existing producers alike because of new understandings about winemaking and improving technology also altered the landscape. In short, California and the West Coast had changed, and the Handbook was able to capture those changes for a growing wine-buying world.
The Handbook held on gamely through four major revisions and many reprintings, and in one form or another, stayed in print for over twenty-five years. But, like all attempts to take a snapshot of a moving target, it became increasingly a captive of past scenes and could not adapt to the new reality of thousands of labels, greatly expanded growing areas, and the changes in information exchange brought about by the emergence of the Internet.
When my writing partners, Norman Roby and Earl Singer, and I finally put the Handbook to bed almost a decade ago, it had outlived its usefulness in its existing form. Today, one can get more information via the Internet than any basic reference book can provide. When it came time to produce another broadly written look at the California wine industry, it was clear that a new approach was needed, and this book, rather than trying to out-produce the Internet, takes full advantage of the extensive resources available at everyones fingertips by providing Web addresses for every winery and for many other valuable sources of information.
Virtually every winery Web site is more extensive than anything we or any other author could put into written form. In this book, then, the basic introductory matter for each winery sets the scene for the detailed background information that followsdata not generally available such as production level and vineyard acreage, examinations of house winemaking styles, and ratings for thousands of wines. This book has one other advantage, too: it combines in one place information on almost five hundred wineries, on some 130 or more places that grapes are grown, and about virtually every important grape and wine type made in California. No single Web site does all that as comprehensively as this book.