Gary Clark - Backroads of the Texas Hill Country: Your Guide to the Most Scenic Adventures

To our parents, who made us Texans, and to our sons, Michael and Christian, who continue our Texas legacy.

The three-bell tower, or espadana, of Mission San Juan.

Texas bluebonnets decorate Ranch Road 2323 between Llano and Fredericksburg.

The Texas Hill Country is more a state of mind than a geographic location because hills curve over many sections of Texas, save the coastal plain. Nonetheless, we can corral the mental perception of the Hill Country into a specific geographic locale marked by gentle, tree-lined limestone hills accented by verdant valleys and rivers with cool, crystal-clear water. The serenity of the land along its backroads contrasts sharply with the bustling, car-jammed Hill Country cities such as San Antonio and Austin, although those cities surely signal its spirit. Surrounding San Antonio and Austin and veering off the raging thoroughfare of Interstate 10 that bisects the land are scenic towns and pastoral byways that give the Hill Country its magical, peaceful, and utterly alluring character.

A dog is out for a drive in the back of a pickup truck near Tarpley.

Geographically, the Hill Country may be described as resting in the center of Texas, bounded on the south by U.S. Highway 90 between Seguin and Del Rio, on the north by Texas Highway 29 between Georgetown and Menard, on the east by U.S. Highway 183 between Gonzales and Taylor, and on the west by U.S. Highway 377 between Del Rio and Junction. However, these geographic boundaries are arbitrary. The Hill Country gradually takes shape just east of Austin and fades out just west of Junction. Some would say it stretches south to the Mexican border and abuts the Great Plains to the north. We would not argue. Geologically, the Hill Country has been largely defined by ancient upheavals that created the Edwards Plateau running through south-central Texas between the Colorado River to the east and the Pecos River to the west. The rolling hills that give the land its special character lie on the eastern part of the Edwards Plateau, circumscribed by the Balcones Fault Zone to the east and the Llano Uplift to the north and west. Physically, the land has a rugged character boldly accented by limestone and granite rocks. Although the climate is arid, rivers and creeks crisscrossing the landscape infuse the air with a refreshingly cool feel and nourish the greenery of sprawling grasslands and Ashe juniper, oaks, and cypress trees that cover the hills and river valleys.

A bronze State of Texas marker graces a granite block outside the Blanco County Courthouse in Johnson City.

But in the end, Kathy and I would simply say the Hill Country is about vistas of peaceful valleys and undulating hills stretching endlessly before the eyes. Its a place you cannot get tired of, but more important, its a place for tired minds. Relaxation seems to come from just breathing the air. The unhurried streets of the small towns compel you to relax, as do the fields of wildflowers, the cool waters of spring-fed rivers, the songs of birds echoing in canyons, and the residents who never fail to greet you with a broad smile and say to you in a slow drawl, Howdy!

Kathy and I make no apologies for our love of Texas. We are both native Texans with deep family roots. Kathys family arrived here from the Alsace region of France in the 1840s, and mine came from the eastern United States about the same time. Weve lived in the state our entire adult lives except for time spent away from the state for business. We have crisscrossed the state many timesand the Hill Country in particularon countless driving expeditions to see birds, butterflies, and the other natural treasures of Texas. And we have always relished the small towns along the backroads with their rich history and matchless Texas hospitality.

In the spirit of Texas hospitality, were now showing you some of our favorite journeys through the Texas Hill Country. All are on improved roads ranging from modern interstate highways to small rural roads. A passenger vehicle with a full tank of gas is all you need to follow the routes weve laid out. On some routes, we describe opportunities for hiking or strolling down nature trails as we, ourselves, have done untold times. Some routes suggest a strenuous but manageable hike into the countryside. Other routes require no more walking than is necessary to go into a bakery or diner for a sweet treat or plate of barbeque, as we have done so often over the years.

We offer you hundreds of stops including places with enthralling history, enchanting scenery, and delightful people. The routes can be traveled any time of the year. Winters in Texas are mild, but the Texas Hill Country will occasionally have snow or ice between December and March. Wildflowers begin blooming in March and peak in April and May. Summers are mild but can be hot toward August. Fall begins around mid-October and continues through November. No need to let weather hold you back from exploring the Hill Country, because as we Texans say, if you dont like the weather, just wait a minute and it will change.

Each route takes you through a wonderful, natural environment, where youll want to have binoculars and a camera. Watch for such birds as sparrows flushing out of the grass, bobwhite quail perched on fence posts, scissor-tailed flycatchers on telephone wires, and red-tailed hawks soaring overhead. Drive with a keen eye out for raccoons, opossums, squirrels, coyotes, and jackrabbits that might be crossing the road ahead of you.