EXPLORERS GUIDES
The Jersey Shore
EXPLORERS GUIDES
The Jersey Shore
Atlantic City to Cape May
A Great Destination
Jen A. Miller
SECOND EDITION
The Countryman Press Woodstock, Vermont
Copyright 2011 by Jen A. Miller
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages.
Explorers Guide The Jersey Shore: Atlantic City to Cape May: A Great Destination
ISBN: 978-1-58157-134-9
Interior photographs by the author unless otherwise specified
Maps by James Miller, The Countryman Press
Composition by Eugenie S. Delaney
Published by The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, VT 05091
To my parents.
I never would have gotten this far without you.
Contents
MAPS
Acknowledgments
THIS BOOK IS the culmination of four years of work, from the day I started the first edition, through three years of article researching and writing, right up to Spring 2011, when I put the finishing touches on the chapters youre about to read.
I never, ever could have done this without a gaggle of people who gave me their time, their ideas, and their support.
Thank you thank you thank you to Michael Bruckler, Maureen Siman, Elaine Zamansky, and the entire Atlantic City Convention and Visitors Authority team for all your help, from giving me a big-picture view to verifying the tiniest of details. Thanks to you guys, we will all know the correct price of a ride on the Jitney.
In Ocean City: Michele and Jay Gillian, and Laurie Howiethank you for telling me what I always needed to know. Special thanks to the ladies of Sun Rose Words & Music, not only for your ideas, but for supporting local authors and local books.
To the Catanoso clan: Marlene, Lenny, and Justin. My family wouldnt be the same without yours. Thank you for the wonderful summers in Avalon Campground, and your support throughout the span that it took to put two books together.
Jack Morey, Ben Rose, and Chuck SchumannWildwood would not be the same without you. Thank you for telling and showing me why. Special thank you to Amy Z. Quinn for her wonderful essay on Wildwood that appears in this book, and for putting into words what I never could about a place so many people love.
Jack Wright, Alicia and Victor Grasso, Terry OBrien, Bob and Linda Steenrod, Jay and Mary Ann Gorrick, and Curtis Bashaw: Thank you for showing me why Cape May is one of the greatest places in the world.
A big thank-you to everyone who gave me photographs for this book: Justin Gaynor for the beautiful cover; Scott Neumyer, Chris Barrett, and Mark Chesner for running out and grabbing shots for me as I closed in on my deadline. Also thanks to historians Emil Salvini, Ben Miller, Douglas Hunsberger, and James T. Hoffman for allowing me to tap their treasure troves of historical photos. Special thanks to Marc Steiner, whose photos youll see throughout. I never would have learned so much about the entire Jersey Shore without you. Thank you for not fleeing when you realized what exactly went into saltwater taffy.
Special thanks to my research assistant, Brittany Wehner, for making all those phone calls and ensuring that this book is as accurate as possible.
To my good friends for listening to me in those final months, weeks, and days as I put this project together, whether it was allowing me to vent about the writing process, or just offering free dinner and a beer: Jen Gertel, Caren Chesler, Kristen Graham, Garrick Goh, and Bobb Hawkey. I couldnt have gotten through those final days without your support.
And to my family, for always being there for me.
Promenade in Sea Isle City
Introduction
SO YOUVE DECIDED to go down the shorebut youre not going to the beach or even to the shore. When you travel to the southern coast of New Jersey, youre going down the shore, where within 45 miles you can find everything from casinos to gourmet dining to relaxed seaside communities, all with pristine beaches. Your Jersey Shore vacation is what you make of it, and Im here to show you your options. There are a lottrust me. Ive been writing about the shore for years, and Im still surprised by what I find.
HISTORY
The shore area was first inhabited by Native Americans, then by farmers who let their animals graze on the land. Fishermen soon followed and set up small towns along the water.
The South Jersey Shore as we know it today would not have existed without Philadelphia or its steamy summers. In 1790, Philadelphia was Americas largest city, and living conditions werent ideal, especially in summer, when temperatures could reach past 100 degrees with soul-sucking humidity.
In the 1850s, railroads started bringing people to the coast, and by 1880 a new rail line opened between Philadelphia and Atlantic City. Vacationers soon followed, and they kept going all the way south to Cape May. Congress Hall opened there in 1816. Few in town believed it would succeedwhy would that many people ever want to stay in their corner of the world? Townspeople even nicknamed the building Tommys Folly after Thomas Hughes, who built the hotel that is still standing today and the cornerstone of a busy shore town.
By the 1950s, going down the shore was a tradition for families from the Philadelphia area, and the subtle differences among the towns still hold today. Ocean City was the family-friendly spot (no alcohol allowed, even as BYO); Sea Isle City, Avalon, and Stone Harbor were the quieter towns with a preppy appeal and jeans-and-T-shirt casual bar scenes; Wildwood was where the action was without the gambling. It was even known as Little Las Vegas since Vegas performers, including the Rat Pack, flocked to the Wildwoods when the heat turned up too high in the desert. Many Victorian buildings in Cape May had been destined for demolition, but a push by local citizens in the 1960s and 1970s saved her gems and started a townwide redevelopment kick that eventually swung up to the Wildwoodswhere folks work to save their Doo Wop motels as opposed to gingerbread cottages.
What youll find today is a shore in its prime. People have realized the value of shore homes, and real estate prices now match. Where you could maybe buy a lot or two for $20,000 in the 1960s (as my grandfather had the opportunity to do), its not uncommon these days to see for-sale prices that cross the $10 million rangethough there are plenty of more affordable options.
Even changing real estate hasnt stopped vacationers from coming down to enjoy the sights, the sounds, and the water. If youre reading this book, youre probably one of them. Whether you found the shore by accident, or youve been coming here since you were a baby, theres plenty of new things (or new-to-you things) to see and do down the shore.
TRANSPORTATION
If youre coming from the Philadelphia area, youre probably driving down via the Atlantic City Expressway, accessible through Rt. 76 in Philadelphia, then Rt. 42 in New Jersey, which feeds into the Atlantic City Expressway. If youre headed to points south of Atlantic City, you can hop onto the Garden State Parkway (exit 7S), which ends in Cape May.
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