The Rise of Tea Culture
in China
Asia/Pacific/Perspectives
Series Editor: Mark Selden
Crime, Punishment, and Policing in China edited by Brge Bakken
Woman, Man, Bangkok: Love, Sex, and Popular Culture in Thailand by Scot Barm
Making the Foreign Serve China: Managing Foreigners in the Peoples Republic by Anne-Marie Brady
Marketing Dictatorship: Propaganda and Thought Work in China by Anne-Marie Brady
Collaborative Nationalism: The Politics of Friendship on Chinas Mongolian Frontier by Uradyn E. Bulag
The Mongols at Chinas Edge: History and the Politics of National Unity by Uradyn E. Bulag
Transforming Asian Socialism: China and Vietnam Compared edited by Anita Chan, Benedict J. Tria Kerkvliet, and Jonathan Unger
Bound to Emancipate: Working Women and Urban Citizenship in Early Twentieth-Century China by Angelina Chin
The Search for the Beautiful Woman: A Cultural History of Japanese and Chinese Beauty by Cho Kyo, translated by Kyoko Iriye Selden
Chinas Great Proletarian Cultural Revolution: Master Narratives and Post-Mao Counternarratives edited by Woei Lien Chong
North China at War: The Social Ecology of Revolution, 19371945 edited by Feng Chongyi and David S. G. Goodman
Little Friends: Childrens Film and Media Culture in China by Stephanie Hemelryk Donald
Beachheads: War, Peace, and Tourism in Postwar Okinawa by Gerald Figal
Gender in Motion: Divisions of Labor and Cultural Change in Late Imperial and Modern China edited by Bryna Goodman and Wendy Larson
Social and Political Change in Revolutionary China: The Taihang Base Area in the War of Resistance to Japan, 19371945 by David S. G. Goodman
Rice Wars in Colonial Vietnam: The Great Famine and the Viet Minh Road to Power by Geoffrey C. Gunn
Islands of Discontent: Okinawan Responses to Japanese and American Power edited by Laura Hein and Mark Selden
Masculinities in Chinese History by Bret Hinsch
Women in Early Imperial China, Second Edition by Bret Hinsch
Chinese Civil Justice, Past and Present by Philip C. C. Huang
Local Democracy and Development: The Kerala Peoples Campaign for Decentralized Planning by T. M. Thomas Isaac with Richard W. Franke
Hidden Treasures: Lives of First-Generation Korean Women in Japan by Jackie J. Kim with Sonia Ryang
North Korea: Beyond Charismatic Politics by Heonik Kwon and Byung-Ho Chung
Prosperitys Predicament: Identity, Reform, and Resistance in Rural Wartime China by Isabel Brown Crook and Christina Kelley Gilmartin with Yu Xiji, edited by Gail Hershatter and Emily Honig
Postwar Vietnam: Dynamics of a Transforming Society edited by Hy V. Luong
From Silicon Valley to Shenzhen: Global Production and Work in the IT Industry by Boy Lthje, Stefanie Hrtgen, Peter Pawlicki, and Martina Sproll
Resistant Islands: Okinawa Confronts Japan and the United States by Gavan McCormack and Satoko Oka Norimatsu
The Indonesian Presidency: The Shift from Personal towards Constitutional Rule by Angus McIntyre
Nationalisms of Japan: Managing and Mystifying Identity by Brian J. McVeigh
To the Diamond Mountains: A Hundred-Year Journey through China and Korea by Tessa Morris-Suzuki
From Underground to Independent: Alternative Film Culture in Contemporary China edited by Paul G. Pickowicz and Yingjin Zhang
Wife or Worker? Asian Women and Migration edited by Nicola Piper and Mina Roces
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Biology and Revolution in Twentieth-Century China by Laurence Schneider
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Thought Reform and Chinas Dangerous Classes: Reeducation, Resistance, and the People by Aminda M. Smith
When the Earth Roars: Lessons from the History of Earthquakes in Japan by Gregory Smits
Subaltern China: Rural Migrants, Media, and Cultural Practices by Wanning Sun
Japans New Middle Class, Third Edition by Ezra F. Vogel with a chapter by Suzanne Hall Vogel, foreword by William W. Kelly
The Japanese Family in Transition: From the Professional Housewife Ideal to the Dilemmas of Choice by Suzanne Hall Vogel with Steven Vogel
The United States and China: A History from the Eighteenth Century to the Present by Dong Wang
The Inside Story of Chinas High-Tech Industry: Making Silicon Valley in Beijing by Yu Zhou
The Rise of Tea Culture
in China
The Invention of the Individual
Bret Hinsch
ROWMAN & LITTLEFIELD
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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Hinsch, Bret.
The rise of tea culture in China : the invention of the individual / Bret Hinsch.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-4422-5178-6 (cloth : alk. paper) ISBN 978-1-4422-5179-3 (electronic)
1. TeaSocial aspectsChina. I. Title.
GT2907.C6H55 2015
394.1'50951dc23
2015026485
TM The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992.
Printed in the United States of America
Timeline of Major Chinese Dynasties
Shang | ca. 16001046 BCE |
Zhou | 1046256 BCE |
Han | 206 BCE220 CE |
Jin | 265420 |
Tang | 618907 |
Song | 9601279 |
Northern Song | 9601126 |
Southern Song | 11271279 |
Yuan | 12711368 |
Ming | 13681644 |
Qing | 16441911 |
Introduction
What is so special about tea? Billions of people around the world enjoy many other beverages, sometimes to the point of fetish. Coffee does far more than just wake us up in the morning. Besides providing jobs for farmers and baristas, it also spawns convivial neighborhood venues where patrons can relax, chat, and play with their phones. The global soft drink industry has somehow managed to convince huge numbers of consumers that a fizzy sweet liquid embodies youth and fun. Other beverages, from craft beer to fruit juice, also have large numbers of enthusiastic drinkers. Nevertheless, however important these other beverages might be in certain respects, no other drink is as important to a culture as Chinese tea.