Sharon Niederman - Explorer’s Guide New Mexico

Also by Sharon Niederman:

Explorers Guide Santa Fe & Taos

Return to Abo: A Novel of the Southwest

A Quilt of Words: Womens Diaries, Letters & Original Accounts of Life in the Southwest 18601960

New Mexicos Tasty Traditions: Recollections, Recipes and Photos

Signs & Shrines: Spiritual Journeys Across New Mexico

New Mexico Farm Table Cookbook: 100 Homegrown Recipes from the Land of Enchantment

Copyright 2019, 2013, 2009 by The Countryman Press

Maps by Mapping Specialists 2013 by The Countryman Press

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Series cover design by Steve Attardo

Cover photograph Adam Schallau / Offset.com

Back cover photograph by Sharon Niederman

Book design by Chris Welch

Production manager: Devon Zahn

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available

The Countryman Press

www.countrymanpress.com

A division of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.

500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

www.wwnorton.com

978-1-68268-190-9 (pbk.)

ISBN: 978-1-68268-191-6 (ebk.)

The Truth We Prefer

The young woman who opened a gift shop

Selling glass bead earrings, Mexican imports, replica flour sack aprons

Offering Dia de los Muertos workshops

Tells me this place was a stagecoach stop

No ghosts she knows of

But her aunt remembers stories

That doorway is narrow, watch your head

The real estate office across the street was a coffin factory, you know

The church was complete, except for the bell

So the women gave their silver

Scant history, legend perhaps, the truth we prefer

But it is true, isnt it

A hundred years ago, longer

The farmers from Alameda

And those from Los Griegos

Processed after Mass on San Lorenzo Day

And wherever they met held a fiesta, right here in this street?

Sharon Niederman

EXPLORE WITH US!

Explorers Guide New Mexico is broken down into sections representing different areas of the state. Because of the states size, most of these geographic sections are subdivided into mini-chapters for easy navigation. Each chapter opens with a general introduction touching on the history and highlights of the area, and then continues with information on destinations, accommodations, and restaurants that guide you to the best of New Mexico.

I focus on independent venues for two reasons. Most readers are familiar with easily found, well-advertised franchise food and lodgings. More important, independent businesses, such as mom-and-pop cafs and vintage motels, are often undiscovered and more likely to deliver an authentic New Mexican experience. While you might have some initial reluctance to try an unknown restaurant or lodging, those in these pages are carefully vetted. I have done my best to share my knowledge of the state based on more than two decades of traveling and writing about its cuisine, history, culture and customs, architecture, and natural beauty. I want to show you my favorite places and give you an honest appraisal. I have curated available choices to bring you an extraordinary travel adventure. All sampling is done anonymously and, unlike many influencers out there, I do not receive perks in exchange for good reviews.

We have done our best to keep the information contained in these pages as current as possible. If you find a brilliant new recommendation, send it our way.

New Mexico offers rich sense of place in its varied geography, terrain, long history, and complex cultures. Even if you have traveled here many times, there is always more to learn. May you enjoy the discovery, be transformed by it, and vow to return soon.

GUIDANCE Guidance lists such entities as chambers of commerce, visitor centers, and public land managers that you can refer to for information on the area.

GETTING THERE Getting There tells you the best routes to take and what means of transportation are available to get you there.

GETTING AROUND Getting Around lists means of public transportation or shuttles, where they are available.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Medical Emergency lists hospitals and/or clinics. Dialing 911 is also an option at all times.

TO SEE To See lists attractions and points of interest you may want to visit, including museums, historic sites, scenic drives, and more.

TO DO To Do features key activities available in each area.

LODGING Lodging will give you ideas of where to find unique and consistently good places to stay, even in more remote areas.

WHERE TO EAT Where to Eat lists venues that serve dependably good food. There are two categories here: Dining Out, the better restaurants, and Eating Out, the more casual options. Please let us know if the food or service is up to the standard we expectplaces do change hands and have off nights.

ENTERTAINMENT Entertainment gives suggestions on theater, music, and relaxing in the evening.

SELECTIVE SHOPPING Selective Shopping points you in the right direction for shopping, particularly for wares that are characteristic of a place.

SPECIAL EVENTS Special Events is a month-by-month compendium of the most important annual events and festivals in each community.

Please send any comments or corrections to:

Explorers Guide Editor

The Countryman Press

A division of W. W. Norton & Company

500 Fifth Avenue

New York, NY 10110

KEY TO SYMBOLS

The wedding rings symbol appears beside facilities that frequently serve as venues for weddings and civil unions.

The special-value symbol appears next to lodgings and restaurants that combine high quality and moderate prices.

The kids-alert symbol appears next to lodgings, restaurants, activities, and shops of special appeal to youngsters.

The dog-paw symbol appears next to lodgings that accept pets (usually with a reservation and deposit) as of press time.

The wheelchair symbol appears next to lodgings, restaurants, and attractions that are partially or fully handicapped accessible.

CONTENTS

Rio Rancho, Bernalillo, Placitas, Corrales, Jemez Springs, Belen, Moriarty, Mountainair, Madrid, Cerrillos

Taos, Questa, Red River, Angel Fire, Taos Ski Valley, Arroyo Seco

Chimayo, Truchas, Cordova, Peasco, Dixon

Abiquiu, Espaola, Tierra Amarilla, Los Ojos

Acoma Pueblo, Crownpoint, Laguna Pueblo, Gallup, Grants, Ramah, Zuni Pueblo

Aztec, Bloomfield, Cuba, Farmington, Shiprock

Socorro, Truth or Consequences, Elephant Butte, Hatch, Las Cruces, Mesilla