Sharon Niederman - Explorers Guide Santa Fe & Taos

W INTER T WILIGHT , C ANYON R OAD

Do not say you will come back

When it is warmer

When you have time

When the light is better

When the galleries are open

When the chestnut trees are green

When a woman in red sits on the garden bench

When the blue gate is wide open

When the duende seizes you

When you are not obsessing

When you are not regretting

When you are not counting

Your losses

See the Hunger Moon scale the Sangres

Press the shutter. Now.

S HARON N IEDERMAN

CONTENTS

MAPS

I n 1881, New Mexico governor Lew Wallace made the observation, Every calculation based on experience elsewhere fails in New Mexico. While Wallace meant the statement ironically and that is how it is generally understood, this book is all about the celebration of the 47th states wondrous, unique qualities.

The vibrant mix of cultures, the variety of languages spoken, and the respect for time-honored customs makes New Mexico an exciting place to be. However, a happy and successful visit to New Mexico requires the appropriate attitude adjustment. Just as you can go from desert to high mountain environments in an hour, you can shift from adventure to luxurious relaxation faster than you can say maana . This book, based on three decades of living, writing, and traveling here, can guide you toward creating the best possible New Mexico experiencefor you. Heres what you need to know:

Always get precise directions before setting out. Travel with adequate maps. Once on the road, you may find a lack of signs, street names, and markers. Historic markers of the Old Spanish Trail and El Camino Real may not be very useful helping you find a restaurant or lodging. In addition, many streets are old and winding, and undergo name changes midway. They were built for burros, not automobiles (this is one aspect of Santa Fe charm), so travel can be disorienting. If you stop to ask directions, you may find they are skimpy or given with an assumption of familiarity you do not possess. Locals may be able to tell each other, Its over there, just past the big cottonwood, turn right at the dip and look for the blue mailbox, while, after half a dozen bumps in a dirt road, you may wonder exactly which dip was meant.

Always call ahead to be sure a restaurant or attraction is open. Although definite hours may be advertised, the reality is that hours of operation are often flexible, based on time of year, family demands, and number of visitors. The place you expected to be open because the website said it was might have its door locked. This situation is particularly true in out-of-the-way locations. To avoid disappointment and unnecessary driving, just call first.

THE HISTORY OF NATIVE PEOPLE IS DEPICTED ON MUSEUM HILL IN SANTA FE

Santa Fe and Taos are popular destinations. It is not unusual for favorite lodgings to be booked for the winter holiday season and Indian Market a year in advance; for many other wonderful B&Bs, six months in advance is common. The sooner you can make your travel plans, the more choices you will have and the fewer compromises you will have to make. Also, booking in advance can help you negotiate more favorable rates.

ROASTING CHILES SCENT THE AUTUMN AIR

Remember you are entering another time zone here. Were not just talking about Mountain Time. Maana does not mean tomorrow. It may be translated as not today. The room you booked was supposed to be ready at 2, yet when you arrive youre told it wont be ready until 4. Or the tour you booked is canceled until next week. Patience, courtesy, and flexibility, always a good idea, are the best attitudes to maintain. Pressuring or threats to talk to the manager or call the boss will be counterproductive. New Mexico is not the place to throw your weight around. Yes, you are the customer. And you are prepared to pay good money for competent service. But any display of self-importance will only typecast you as an outsider and decrease the chances that youll get what you want. New Mexicans were isolated for four centuries, and they made up their own rules. Rushing is not efficient here. But youre on vacation anyway, right? So go with the flow. And carry a book with you for times you might have to wait. Taking a chill attitude may make the difference between having a good vacation and a terrible time.

Take care of your health. Youve probably heard it before, but here goes: Allow a few days to adjust to the altitude, drink lots of water, wear sunscreen at all times of day, take a hat, dress in layers, give yourself lots of rest stops. The sun is very intense at this altitude, theres less oxygen, and you may very well feel the effects. And whatever the season, its best to be prepared for sudden changes in weather. When venturing out, be prepared for temperature changes of as much as 40 degrees in a single dayand remember, the weather may change dramatically very suddenly. A day that starts out quite cool may become very warm in the afternoon sun. Dress accordingly. That means pack your layers and wear them.

The official state question in restaurants is: Red or green? But you will find that the question most commonly asked by outsiders in New Mexico is: Which is hotter, red or green chile? Regardless of the answer, if you are genuinely concerned, its best to ask for a small taste of each kind of chile before placing your order. It might take you a little while to become accustomed to the taste sensation of chile, but once you do, you will be addicted, eagerly anticipating your next taste. And the touted health benefits of chile are real. Meanwhile, at most restaurants, you can order any dish containing chile with the chile served on the side.

Even if you are not by nature a shopper, you will find things here so special, so unique that youll find yourself frequently reaching for your wallet. Art, jewelry, furniture, clothing, craftsnorthern New Mexico is a bazaar of the one-of-a-kind and the exquisitely handmade. In Santa Fe, Spanish Market takes place the last weekend in July, while Indian Market is held the weekend of August closest to the 19th, and the wildly popular International Folk Art Festival is the second weekend in July. In fall, artists studio tours held in the nearby villages of El Rito, Dixon, Abiquiu, and Galisteo offer especially appealing shopping opportunities. Some Pueblo artists sell from their home studios as well. In the case of silver and turquoise jewelry, it is buyer beware, so purchasing from a reputable dealer or museum shop is your best bet. The wares sold at the Portal Program at the Palace of the Governors are juried and certified Indian Handmade, so that is another safe place to shop. The stores described in this book are well-researched, reliable purveyors of original work.

While people speak of off-season and in-season, there really is no clear off-season in New Mexico. Each time of year has its own beauty, to be found on a peaceful desert hike on a dazzling summer morning or cuddling up in front of a sweet pion fire after a winter afternoon walk through snowy Santa Fe. Theres nothing better than a stroll through Taos in early November, when the cottonwoods are still golden and the scent of autumn pion smoke is in the air. Whatever season you choose for your visit, New Mexico has the power to touch and satisfy your soul. Your chances of finding worthwhile bargains may be found during the quieter times of spring and fall.