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Copyright 1993 by the University Press of Colorado
Published by the University Press of Colorado P.O. Box 849 Niwot, Colorado 80544
All rights reserved.
The University Press of Colorado is a cooperative publishing enterprise supported, in part, by Adams State College, Colorado State University, Fort Lewis College, Mesa State College, Metropolitan State College of Denver, University of Colorado, University of Northern Colorado, University of Southern Colorado, and Western State College of Colorado.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
May, Stephen. Footloose on the Santa Fe trail / by Stephen May. p. ISBN 0-87081-294-7 (alk. paper).ISBN 0-87081-295-5 (pbk.: alk. paper) 1. Santa Fe TrailHistory. I. Title. F786.M47 1993 979dc20 93-19431 CIP
The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Information SciencesPermanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials. ANSI Z39.48-1984
10 9 8 7 6 54 3 2 1
The Open Road. The great home of the soul is the open road. Not heaven, not paradise. Not "above. " Not even "within." The soul is neither "above" nor "within.'' It is a wayfarer down the open road. D. H. LAWRENCE
Other Books by Stephen May
Pilgrimage: A Journey Through Colorado's History and Culture
Fire From the Skies
A Land Observed: The West of the American Painter
Contents
Preface
ix
Part One: Caravans
1.
Citadel on the Prairie
3
2.
Bostonian in Buckskin
13
3.
The Invincible Summer
22
4.
A Turn in the Trail
33
5.
The Raton Pass
42
6.
Nuevo Mexico
50
7.
Alas, Santa Fe!
62
8.
Flight
72
Part Two: The Taos Trail
9.
God Is an Englishman
109
10.
The Road Taken
116
11.
The Valley in Turmoil
121
12.
Resolution
127
13.
The View From Here
134
References
141
Page ix
Preface
This is a story of a journey into and through the heart of the American West. I took the trip for two reasons: the desire to see the terrain, the people, and the culture of the area, and at the same time to imagine what this historic region was like more than 150 years ago.
To accomplish the latter, I chose to focus on the events of one year1846and part of another1847that comprised a significant if not portentous period in the development of the West. Never in the settling of the West had there been a year when so much military, literary, artistic, and cultural activity occurred in such a compact region. In short, it was a time when all the dynamic elements of the human drama reached a brief apogee.
I thought it might be interesting to compare and contrast my own modern journey with the exploits and travels of people who lived in that other era. I have always been an avid walker, so the idea of a looping trek along the Santa Fe Trail and around the Sangre de Cristos, traveling the routes of the nineteenth century and sleeping under the simple stars, seemed not only tantalizing but within my reach. I laid out the specific historical routes on a map and soon realized that with a good walk I could cover the experiences of some of the most dramatic personalities of the age and yet still encounter a modern view of southern Colorado and northern New Mexico.
What resulted is this account of my own adventures in the western heartland and those of Francis Parkman, Henry Chatillon, Susan and Samuel Magoffin, Ceran St. Vrain, Stephen Kearny, Charles and William Bent, Lewis Garrard, and George Frederick Ruxton. There was a surprise addition, however. A chance encounter with a stranger on a Colorado back road led me to discover another lesser-known traveler from that year. Without this stroke of good fortune, I probably would not have written this book.
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