Ten Restaurants
That Changed
America
This book is dedicated to
my brother Dan Freedman
and to his family
TEN RESTAURANTS AND AMERICAN CUISINE
: Delmonicos menu for a dinner in honor of Grand Duke Alexis of Russia. (Menu for the Diner de 100 Couverts En lHoneur de S. M. le Grand Duk Alexis, Decembre 1871, Delmonicos, from Charles Ranhofer, The Epicurean [New York: C. Ranhofer, 1894], p. 1092. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute, Harvard University, RSMJ8K.)
: Medieval street food. (Woodcut with hand coloring, in Ulrich von Richenthal, Concillium zu Constencz [Augsburg, 1483], Technische Universitt Darmstadt, Universitt- und Landesbibliothek Darmstadt, Inc III 55.)
DELMONICOS
: A page from the 1838 Delmonicos menu. (Menu, Carte du Restaurant Franais des Frres Delmonico, 1838. Collection of the Museum of the City of New York, 34.295.2.ALT3.)
: Cover of the 1838 Delmonicos menu. (Menu, Carte du Restaurant Franais des Frres Delmonico, 1838. Collection of the Museum of the City of New York, 34.295.2.)
: Photograph of The Citadel, Delmonicos at Beaver and S. William Street. (Baxter St. [Baxter Street to Broad Street], photograph, J. Clarence Davies Street Views Scrapbook. Collection of the Museum of the City of New York, X2012.61.2.3.)
: Watercolor of the exterior of Delmonicos Fourteenth Street at Fifth Avenue. (Unknown, Delmonicos, 1875, watercolor on board, 15.5 x 10.25 in. Collection of the Museum of the City of New York, 29.100.2082.)
: Chef Charles Ranhofer. (Delmonicos [Chef Charles Ranhofer], 1902, photograph, Byron Company [New York, N.Y.]. Collection of the Museum of the City of New York, 93.1.1.6166.)
: Delmonicos menu, 1881. (Menu, Delmonicos, 1881. Rare Book Division, The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations, 1881-0043.)
: Dinner given at Delmonicos by the New York Chamber of Commerce, 1890. (Thure de Thulstrup, The 122d Annual Banquet of the Chamber of Commerce at Delmonicos, Tuesday Evening, November 18, 1890, in Harpers New Monthly, vol. 83, 1891. General Collection, Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, Yale University.)
: Menu Cover from Rectors, 1917. (Menu, Rectors, 1917. Courtesy of The Henry Voigt Collection of American Menus.)
: William Glackens, Chez Mouquins, 1905. (William Glackens, At Mouquins [Chez Mouquin], 1905, oil on canvas, 122.4 x 92.1 cm [48 1/2 x 36 1/4 in.]. Friends of American Art Collection, 1925.295, The Art Institute of Chicago. Estate of the Artist, Kraushaar Galleries, New York.)
: The main dining room at Rectors. (Main Dining Room, Rectors, Broadway, at 48th Street, New York, ca. 1920, postcard. Collection of the Museum of the City of New York, X2011.34.2765.)
: Rectors menu, 1902. (Menu, Rectors, 1902. Courtesy of The Henry Voigt Collection of American Menus.)
: Delmonicos menu, 1917. (Menu, Delmonicos, 1917. Rare Books Division, The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations, 1917-0159.)
: Menu cover from Mon Lay Won, the Chinese Delmonico. (Menu, Mon Lay Won, ca. 1910. Courtesy of The Henry Voigt Collection of American Menus.)
ANTOINES
: Antoines menu, 2009: Hors doeuvres. (Hors DOeuvres Menu, Antoines Restaurant, 2009. Used with permission, courtesy of Rick Blount, Antoines Restaurant.)
: Antoine Alciatore. ([Detail] Antoine Alciatore, booklet, n.d. Used with permission, courtesy of Rick Blount, Antoines Restaurant.)
: Antoines Restaurant exterior, ca. 1925. (Antoines Restaurant, ca. 1925, photograph. New Orleans Negative Exposures and Prints, Mss. 173703-07, 176212-176235, Louisiana and Lower Mississippi Valley Collections, LSU Libraries, Baton Rouge, La.)
: The 1840 Room at Antoines. (Ashley Young, 1840 Room, Antoines Restaurant, New Orleans, 2013, photograph. Courtesy of Ashley Rose Young.)
: Bgus Restaurant, before 1917. (Old Fashioned French Dinner Table, Begues Restaurant, before 1917, photograph. Frank B. Moore Photograph Collection, Earl K. Long Library, University of New Orleans.)
Louisiana Research Collection, Tulane University. Used with permission, courtesy of Rick Blount, Antoines Restaurant.)
: Menu cover from Antoines, before 1930. (Menu, Antoines Restaurant, before 1930. Howard-Tilton Memorial Library, Louisiana Research Collection, Tulane University. Used with permission, courtesy of Rick Blount, Antoines Restaurant.)
: Antoines menu cover. (Menu, Antoines Restaurant, 2009. Used with permission, courtesy of Rick Blount, Antoines Restaurant.)
SCHRAFFTS
Voigt Collection of American Menus. Used with permission of General Mills Marketing Inc. [GMMI].)
: Schraffts on Madison Avenue. (Schraffts, 625 Madison Ave., New York City. Exterior, 1940. Gottscho-Schleisner Collection, Prints and Photographs Division, Library of Congress, LC-G612-38918.)
: Charter of the Sorosis Association. (Advertisement for the First Meeting of the Sorosis Association Hosted by Mrs O Fogy at Delmonicos in New York City on April 20, 1868. Photo by Jay Paull/Getty Images.)
: Luncheon at Delmonicos, 1891. (W. T. Smedley, A Luncheon at Delmonicos, Harpers Weekly 35 [December 5, 1891], pp. 98283, engraving. Archives of the Amon Carter Museum of American Art, Fort Worth, Texas.)
: Astor House Hotel, menu for the ladies ordinary. (Breakfast Menu, Astor House, Ladies Ordinary, August 25, 1843. Rare Books Division, The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations, 1843.)
: Window display at Schraffts. (View at night. Schraffts (Restaurant), 13 East 42nd Street, New York City, USA, April 13, 1929. Photo by MCNY/Gottscho-Schleisner/Getty Images.)
: Japanese Tea Room at Schraffts, Syracuse, early 1920s. ([Detail] Japanese Tea Room, Schraffts, Syracuse, N.Y., postcard, n.d. Courtesy of Jan Whitaker.)
: Waitresses picking up orders at Schraffts, Esso Building. (Waitresses Picking Up Their Orders in the Kitchen at Schraffts in Rockefeller Center, 1948. Photo by Cornell Capa/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images.)
: Interior of Schraffts, Chrysler Building. (Schraffts, Chrysler Building. View to Window and Bar, 1962. Gottscho-Schleisner Collection, Prints and Photographs Division, Library of Congress, LC-G613-78394.)
: The Automat. (A Food Automat Selling Pies and Cakes, New York City, USA, 1936. Photo by Berenice Abbott/Getty Images.)
: Interior of Schraffts, Esso Building. (Schraffts, Esso Building, Rockefeller Center, New York City. Glass Louvres, Main Dining Room, 1948. Gottscho-Schleisner Collection, Prints and Photographs Division, Library of Congress, LC-G612-53328.)
: Schraffts menu cover, 1920. (Menu, Schraffts, 1920. Courtesy of The Henry Voigt Collection of American Menus. Used with permission of General Mills Marketing Inc. [GMMI].)
: The New Yorker cartoon by Helen Hokinson, 1948. (Helen E. Hokinson, Sometimes I think Schraffts doesnt care about calories, cartoon, in The New Yorker, 4/24/1948, p. 86. Helen E. Hoskinson/The New Yorker Collection/The Cartoon Bank.)
: From Andy Warhols Underground Sundae commercial for Schraffts, 1968. (Andy Warhol, Restaurant Tent Card for Schraffts, 1968. Collection of the Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh, TC7.105. 2016 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc./Artists Rights Society [ARS], New York.)
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