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Ruth Mendenhall - Introduction to Rock and Mountain Climbing

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For those who would like to climb mountains, and for those who merely like to contemplate the possibility, Ruth and John Mendenhall have written as entertaining and completely instructive a book as has ever been tucked into a rucksack. The Mendenhalls first advise neophytes on where to find proper instruction, how much will be expected of them as beginners, and what to bring on early climbs. Explicit, authoritative information on what climbers really do on diverse terrain introduces the proper use of rope, belaying the climber below and the leader above, learning to lead, and using pitons in rock or ice. In this step-by-step progression the beginner is introduced to rappels, how to choose sound rappel points, and how to set safe rappels. Details on the functions of ice axe and crampons, and the complex conditions encountered on glaciers, arm the progressing climber with further basic information that builds mountaineering skill. The new climber is then taken through the selection of a peak, the routes, the choice of a group, what to take, what to be alert for, and how to handle emergencies. This uniquely complete coverage advances from beginning through intermediate climbing, and includes discussions of advanced and controversial techniques that the less experienced will be curious about. Through it all comes an awareness of what mountaineering really isthe high spirits, good humor, pleasures, and philosophies of those who climb.

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chapter nine
Sources of Information For Mountain Climbers

CLUBS for climbers and mountaineers abound in the United States. General outdoor clubs often have special cJimbing sections, and a few large assoc iations include widely scattered chapters. Most colleges and universities have active outing or climbing clubs; these arc not listed here. Many climbing groups present programs, show slides of climbing areas, and publish news sheets, bulletins, annual journals, guidebooks, or other informative material about climbs and mountains. Most offer formal or informal instruction. Representative climbing clubs from diverse parts of the country are listed, but there are many more.

Climbing Clubs

Alaska. Mountaineering Club of Alaska, 700 5th Ave., Anchorage.

Arizona. Kachina Mountain Club, 2217 Encanto Dr., N.W., Phoenix.

CalIfornia. Sierra Club, 1050 Mills Tower, San Francisco. (Nationwide chapters. San Francisco Bay, Los Angeles, and San Diego chapters have large, active climbing groups.)

Colorado. Colorado Mountain Club, 1723 E. 16th Ave., Denver. (Several sections.)

District of Columbia. Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, Mountaineering Section, 1718 N St., N.W., Washington.

Hawaii. Uawaiian Trail and Mountain Club, P.O. Box 2238, Honolulu.

Idaho. Idaho Alpine Club, P.O. Box 2885, Idaho Falls.

Illinois. Chicago Mountaineering Club, 2901 S. Parkway, Chicago.

Iowa. Iowa Mountaineers, P.O. Box 163, Iowa City.

Maryland. Mountain Club of Maryland, 3220 Brightwood Ave., Baltimore.

Massachusetts. Appalachian Mountain Club, 5 Joy St., Boston. (Many chapters.) New England Trail Conference, Box 241 , Princeton. (Affiliated groups.)

Montana. Rocky Mountaineer Club, 2100 South Ave. W., Missoula.

New Mexico. New Mexico Mountain Club, P.O. Box 4151, Albuquerque.

New York. Adirondack Mountain Club, Inc., Gabriels. American Alpine Club, 113 E. 90th St., New York . (Regional sections. Does not sponsor outings.)

Oregon. Mazamas, N.W. 19th Ave., Portland.

Utah. Wasatch Mountain Club, 425 S. 8th W., Salt Lake City.

Washington. The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle. Spokane Mountaineers, Inc., P.O. Box 1013, Spokane.

Guide Services

Sevelal commercial guide services conduct climbing schools in vacation and climbing centers. Write for information on courses, dates, equipment, and fees. A few representative services follow.

Exum Mountain Guide Service and School of American Mountaineering, Moose, Wyo.

Mountaineering Guide Service, P.O. Box 327, Big Pine, Calif.

Mount Rainier Guiding Service, 1525 11th Ave., Seattle, Wash.

Rocky Mountain Guide Service and Mountaineering School, Inc., 1250 S. St. Vrain Highway, Estes Park, Colo.

Sources of Equipment Information

A visit to a local shop carrying mountaineering equipment is instructive and pleasant. If such stores do not rate a mountaineering heading in the telephone book, look under sporting goods, camping equipment, or skiing. Some of the mountaineering firms that publish informative catalogues of specialized equipment are listed.

Alpine Hut, 4725 30th Ave., N.E., Seattle, Wash.

Chouinard, P.O. Box 150, Ventura, Calif.

Gerry, Box 910, Boulder, Colo.

Holubar Mountaineering, Ltd., 1030 13th St., Boulder, Colo.

Matterhorn, Inc., P.O. Box 669, Silver Spring, Md.

Recreational Equipment, Inc., 1525 11th Ave., Seattle, Wash.

The Ski Hut, 1615 University Ave., Berkeley, Calif.

Sport Chalet, Box 626, La Canada, Calif.

Wilderness House, 131D-A Commonwealth Ave., Boston, Mass.

Books, Journals, and Periodicals

A large body of fine mountaineering literature deals with classical climbs, expeditions, adventures, tragedies, ascents, and mountain philosophies the world over. These engrossing books are found in libraries, book stores, and mountaineering shops. They are not listed here; you will discover them for yourself.

Publications of practical and current interest to newcomers in the climbing world include instructional material, regional guidebooks and maps, annual journals of climbing clubs, and the one independent mountaineering magazine in the United States. The list below is not all-inclusive; you will find other useful and absorbing reading material as you browse.

Books of Mountaineering Instruction

Belaying the Leader, an Omnibus on Climbing Safety, Dick Leonard, ed. Sierra Club, San Francisco, Calif. 1956. $1.95.

Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills, Climbing Committee of the Mountaineers. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Wash. 2nd ed., 1967. $7.50.

Ropes, Knots and Slings for Climbers, by Walt Wheelock; revised by Royal Robbins. La Siesta Press, Glendale, Calif. Revised ed., 1967. $1.00.

Books for Mountain Emergencies

The ABC of A valanche Safety, by E. R. Chappelle. Highlander Publishing Co., Boulder, Colo. 1961 . 75.

Being Your Own Wilderness Doctor, by E. Russel Kodet, M.D., and Bradford Angier. The Stackpole Co., Harrisburg, Pa., 1968. $3.95.

Medicine for Mountaineering, James A. Wilkerson, M.D., ed. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Wash. 1967. $7.50.

Mountain Rescue Techniques, by Wastl Mariner. sterreichischer Alpenverein, Vienna. English translation, The Mountaineers, Seattle, Wash. 2nd ed., 1965. $3.50.

Mountaineering Medicine (First Aid for Outdoorsmen), by Fred T. Darville, Jr., M.D. Skagit Mountain Rescue Unit, Inc., Mount Vernon, Wash. Revised ed., 1966. $1.00.

Books on Approach and Camping

All about Camping, by W. K. Merrill. The Stackpole Co., Harrisburg, Pa. 1963. $4.95.

Backpack Cookery, by Ruth Dyar Mendenhall. La Siesta Press, Glendale, Calif. 1966. $1.00.

Backpack Techniques, by Ruth Dyar Mendenhall. La Siesta Press, Glendale, Calif. 1967. $1.00.

Home in Your Pack, by Bradford Angier. The Stackpole Co., Harrisburg, Pa. 1965. $4.50.

Skills for Taming the Wilds, by Bradford Angier. The Stackpole Co., Harrisburg, Pa. 1967. $6.95.

Representative Club Publications

Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Annual report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club, New York, N.Y. 75 .

American Alpine Club Journal. Annual. American Alpine Club, New York, N.Y. $5.00.

Appalachia. June and December magazines. Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, Mass. Subscription to biannual magazine, $3.50 a year.

Ascent, Sierra Club Mountaineering Journal. Annual. Sierra Club, San Francisco, Calif. 52.50.

Periodicals

Summit, A Mountaineering Magazine. Big Bear Lake, Calif. Monthly. Subscriptions, $6.00 a year.

Climbers Guidebooks

A Climbers Guide to the Adirondacks (Rock Climbing), Trudy Healy, ed. Adirondack Mountain Club, Gabriels, N.Y. 1967. $2.50.

A Climbers Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington, Cascade Section of the American Alpine Club. American Alpine Club, New York, N.Y. 2nd ed., 1961. $5.00.

A Climbers Guide to Glacier National Park, by J . Gordon Edwards. Sierra Club, San Francisco, Calif. Revised ed., 1966. $4.75.

A Climbers Guide to the High Sierra, Hervey H. Voge, ed. Sierra Club, San Francisco, Calif. Revised ed., 1965. $4.75.

A Climbers Guide to Oregon, by Nicholas A. Dodge. Mazamas, Portland, Ore. 1968. $3.95.

A Climbers Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, by Steve Roper. The Ski Hut, Berkeley, Calif. 1966. $2.75.

A Climbers Guide to the Quincy Quarries, by William R. Crowther and Anthony W. Thompson. M.LT. Outing Club, Cambridge, Mass. 1968. 60.

A Climbers Guide to the Shawangunks, by Arthur Gran. American Alpine Club with The Appalachian Mountain Club (New York chapter), New York, N.Y. 1964. $5.00.

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