Parent - Hiking Texas
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From the rugged Guadalupe Mountains in the west and the deep canyons of the Red River in the Panhandle to the lakes on the eastern landscape, the Texas backcountry is as spacious and diverse as the Lone Star State itself. This guide contains unforgettable hikes that suit all abilities and interests.
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Sienna Jones helped immensely with organizing the fact checking for the earlier revised edition. Family and friends joined me for some of the hikes: Patricia Parent, Jo Lou Spleth, John Morlock, William Hennessy, Erica Little, Barry Hanlon, Russell Roe, Mary Baxter, Heather Ainsworth-Dobbins, Pam Powell, and others. Rick LoBello, Tom Alex, Larry Henderson, Chuck Boettcher, and Paula Rivers helped with suggestions, corrections, and research. Several people helped with information and map research, including Bill Anderson, David Baxter, Jim Carrico, Marie LeMond, Jennifer Owen, Tommy Powell, Joshua Rose, and June Secrist. Terri Eaton, Kent and Beth Brock, Candice Caperton, and Patsie and James Caperton all offered me their hospitality during my travels. My gratitude also goes to the many other people, such as Joanna Ruley-Garza, Sara Dishman, and Lora Hufton, who helped in ways big and small.
Special thanks go to Malcolm Bates, Bill Schneider, and the other people of Falcon Press who initially gave me the opportunity to compile these great Lone Star hikes into a book. And thank you to David Legere, Lynn Zelem, Julie Marsh, Maggie Peterson, and others at FalconGuides for their invaluable assistance on revised editions, which present the best of the Texas outdoors.
Little, Mickey. Hiking and Backpacking Trails of Texas, sixth edition (Taylor Trade Publishing, Houston: 2005).
Parent, Laurence. Hiking Big Bend National Park, third edition (FalconGuides/Rowman & Littlefield, Guilford, Conn.: 2015).
Schneider, Bill. Hiking Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe Mountains National Parks, second edition (FalconGuides/Rowman & Littlefield, Guilford, Conn.: 2005).
Green, Stewart. Best Easy Day Hikes Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe Mountains National Parks, first edition (FalconGuides/Rowman & Littlefield, Guilford, Conn.: 2018).
Gulf of Mexico sunrise on Padre Island (Hike 57)
A long day hike or overnight trip to the South Rim of the Chisos Mountains with spectacular views, mountain woodland, and rare birds
Start: At the west end of the Basin lodge and visitor center parking lot
Elevation gain: 5,400 to 7,460 feet
Distance: 14.9-mile loop
Difficulty: Strenuous
Hiking time: 8 to 10 hours
Seasons/schedule: Year-round
Fees and permits: Park entrance fee; permit required for overnight camping
Trail contact: Big Bend National Park, PO Box 129, Big Bend National Park 79834; (432) 477-2251; www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm
Dog-friendly: Dogs are not allowed on trail
Trail surface: Dirt path
Land status: National park
Nearest town: Terlingua/Study Butte
Other trail users: Equestrians possible on Laguna Meadow and Southwest Rim sections of this hike
Water availability: Seasonal at Boot Spring, trailhead
Maps: USGS Basin and Emory Peak; National Geographic Trails Illustrated Big Bend National Park
From park headquarters at Panther Junction in Big Bend National Park, drive west on the highway toward the Basin and Santa Elena Canyon. Turn left (south) at about 3 miles onto the Basin Road. After almost 7 miles, stop at the large parking area at the lodge and visitor center at the end of the road. From this parking lot follow the sidewalk downhill (west) to the main trailhead sign. Trailhead GPS: N 29 16.208 W 103 18.059
The South Rim is probably the classic Texas hike. Although the trip is fairly strenuous, almost any Texas hiker worth his or her salt will someday try to hike to the South Rim. Few other hikes in Texas can surpass the quality and sheer quantity of views along the trail. On clear days the views cover most of the Texas Big Bend country and far into Mexico.
To fully enjoy the trip, try to allow two or three days. For people in good shape, however, the hike can be done in one day. It can be shortened by about 2.3 miles by skipping the East Rim. Not surprisingly, this is a popular hike. Although there are many designated primitive campsites, it may be difficult to reserve one during Thanksgiving weekend or college spring break.
The described route is a loop. It is a less-steep climb to do the loop in reverse (counterclockwise) from what I describe, but harder on the knees on the descent. For backpackers planning to get water at Boot Spring, I recommend doing the loop as described. Be sure to check on the springs status before you startit does dry up sometimes. If the spring is flowing, it will save having to carry part of your water up the bulk of the climb. Late summer and early fall are the most likely times to find water at the spring or in pools in Boot Canyon.
Last light on an agave and dead tree on the South Rim
The trail starts from the bottom of the parking lot and immediately hits a three-way junction. As with all the trail junctions in the Chisos Mountains, this one is well marked. Go left, toward the Pinnacles Trail and the South Rim. The trail forks again in a short distance; go left toward Emory Peak on the Pinnacles Trail. Youll pass several lodge cabins and a water tank. Ignore the Chisos Basin Loop trail forking right after about 0.5 mile.
The trail levels out for a breather at Juniper Flat and Boulder Meadow but generally keeps climbing at a moderate but unrelenting grade. After switchbacking steeply up the rocky wall of the Basin, the trail tops out with great views back down the way you came. If youre hiking in October, you may see some beautiful fall maples along the trail a little below the top.
After reaching the top, the trail starts down a tributary of Boot Canyon, passing the Emory Peak Trail on the right. After about 1.0 mile the Colima Trail forks to the right. Stay left toward the South Rim. The trail passes the corral and Park Service cabin. To find the spring, go down the slope into the canyon bottom behind the cabin a very short distance on an unmarked trail. Use as little water as possible; wildlife depends on it, too. Be sure to purify the water before drinking.
Boot Canyon is home to the Colima warbler, a Mexican bird that lives in the United States only in the Chisos Mountains. Similarly, that wilted-looking tree that grows in the canyon, the Mexican drooping juniper, occurs here only. The canyon is one of the lushest areas of the park, with Arizona cypress, bigtooth maple, and even a few Arizona
pines and Douglas firs. The record drought of 2011 killed some trees here and many of the pion pines on the slopes above.
Ignore the Juniper Canyon Trail that forks off to the left a little past the spring. After another 0.5 mile, the trail forks again. Turn left and follow the trail to the East Rim. If you are tired or short on time, go right, straight to the South Rim. This will cut off more than 2.0 miles, but you will miss one of the most scenic parts of the hike. (Note: If peregrine falcons are roosting at the East Rim, you will have to go right at this junction because the Park Service closes access from about February to June.)
The trail to the East Rim makes a spectacular loop along the edge of the East and South Rims before rejoining the shorter right fork on the rim. Continue along the rim past the junction. The trail eventually turns back north away from the rim. After 1.5 miles or so, the trail passes the Colima Trail on the right and then, a short distance later, the Blue Creek Trail on the left.
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