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Ina Kliffen - Celtic Animals Charted Designs

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Ina Kliffen Celtic Animals Charted Designs
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    Celtic Animals Charted Designs
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    Dover Publications
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Celtic Animals Charted Designs: summary, description and annotation

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Distinguished by its intricate interlacings and elaborate spirals, Celtic art has provided needlecrafters with countless motifs for use in varied projects. This intriguing collection of charted designs by Ina Kliffen incorporates the fascinating shapes of mythical Celtic creatures.
Included are forty-three carefully devised color-coded charts depicting a variety of strange and mystifying beasts. Intertwined in the traditional snake-like weaves are eye-catching representations of fabulous fauna that will enhance any needlecrafters work.
Complete instructions and easy-to-follow diagrams enable even beginners to embellish clothing, linens, cushion covers, and other domestic items with a menagerie of eye-catching creations. Ideal for cross-stitch, these unusual designs also work well in needlepoint and other counted-stitch techniques.

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Table of Contents COUNTED CROSS-STITCH MATERIALS 1 Needles A small - photo 1
Table of Contents

COUNTED CROSS-STITCH
MATERIALS

1. Needles. A small blunt tapestry needle, No. 24 or No. 26.

2. Fabric. Evenweave linen, cotton, wool or synthetic fabrics all work well. The most popular fabrics are aida cloth, linen and hardanger cloth. Cotton aida is most commonly available in 18 threads-per-inch, 14 threads-per-inch and 11 threads-per-inch (14-count is the most popular size). Evenweave linen comes in a variety of threads-per-inch. To work cross-stitch on linen involves a slightly different technique (see page 4). Thirty thread-per-inch linen will result in a stitch about the same size as 14-count aida. Hardanger cloth has 22 threads to the inch and is available in cotton or linen. The amount of fabric needed depends on the size of the cross-stitch design. To determine yardage, divide the number of stitches in the design by the thread-count of the fabric. For example: If a design 112 squares wide by 140 squares deep is worked on a 14-count fabric, divide 112 by 14 (= 8), and 140 by 14 (= 10). The design will measure 8 x 10. The same design worked on 22-count fabric measures about 5 x 6. When cutting the fabric, be sure to allow at least 2 of blank fabric all around the design for finishing.

3. Threads and Yarns. Six-strand embroidery floss, crewel wool, Flower Thread, pearl cotton or metallic threads all work well for cross-stitch. DMC Embroidery Floss has been used to color-code the patterns in this volume. Crewel wool works well on evenweave wool fabric. Flower thread is a thicker thread with a matte finish, one strand equaling two of embroidery floss.

4. Embroidery Hoop. A wooden or plastic 4, 5 or 6 round or oval hoop with a screw-type tension adjuster works best for cross-stitch.

5. Scissors. A pair of sharp embroidery scissors is essential to all embroidery.

PREPARING TO WORK

To prevent raveling, either whip stitch or machine-stitch the outer edges of the fabric.

Locate the exact center of the chart. Establish the center of the fabric by folding it in half first vertically, then horizontally. The center stitch of the chart falls where the creases of the fabric meet. Mark the fabric center with a basting thread.

It is best to begin cross-stitch at the top of the design. To establish the top, count the squares up from the center of the chart, and the corresponding number of holes up from the center of the fabric.

Place the fabric tautly in the embroidery hoop, for tension makes it easier to push the needle through the holes without piercing the fibers. While working continue to retighten the fabric as necessary.

When working with multiple strands (such as embroidery floss) always separate (strand) the thread before beginning to stitch. This one small step allows for better coverage of the fabric. When you need more than one thread in the needle, use separate strands and do not double the thread. (For example: If you need four strands, use four separated strands.) Thread has a nap (just as fabrics do) and can be felt to be smoother in one direction than the other. Always work with the nap (the smooth side) pointing down.

For 14-count aida and 30-count linen, work with two strands of six-strand floss. For more texture, use more thread; for a flatter look, use less thread.

EMBROIDERY

To begin, fasten the thread with a waste knot and hold a short length of thread on the underside of the work, anchoring it with the first few stitches (Diagram 1). When the thread end is securely in place, clip the knot.

To stitch, push the needle up through a hole in the fabric, cross the thread intersection (or square) on a left-to-right diagonal (Diagram 2) . Half the stitch is now completed.

DIAGRAM 1 Reverse side of work DIAGRAM 2 Next cross back right to - photo 2

DIAGRAM 1

Reverse side of work

DIAGRAM 2 Next cross back right to left forming an X Diagram 3 Work all - photo 3

DIAGRAM 2

Next, cross back, right to left, forming an X (Diagram 3).

Work all the same color stitches on one row, then cross back, completing the Xs (Diagram 4).

DIAGRAM 3 DIAGRAM 4 Some needleworkers prefer to cross each stitch as - photo 4

DIAGRAM 3

DIAGRAM 4 Some needleworkers prefer to cross each stitch as they come to it - photo 5

DIAGRAM 4

Some needleworkers prefer to cross each stitch as they come to it. This method also works, but be sure all of the top stitches are slanted in the same direction. Isolated stitches must be crossed as they are worked. Vertical stitches are crossed as shown in Diagram 5.

DIAGRAM 5 At the top work horizontal rows of a single color left to right - photo 6

DIAGRAM 5

At the top, work horizontal rows of a single color, left to right. This method allows you to go from an unoccupied space to an occupied space (working from an empty hole to a filled one), making ruffling of the floss less likely. Holes are used more than once, and all stitches hold hands unless a space is indicated on the chart. Hold the work upright throughout (do not turn as with many needlepoint stitches).

When carrying the thread from one area to another, run the needle under a few stitches on the wrong side. Do not carry thread across an open expanse of fabric as it will be visible from the front when the project is completed.

To end a color, weave in and out of the underside of the stitches, making a scallop stitch or two for extra security (Diagram 6). When possible, end in the same direction in which you were working, jumping up a row if necessary (Diagram 7). This prevents holes caused by stitches being pulled in two directions. Trim the thread ends closely and do not leave any tails or knots as they will show through the fabric when the work is completed.

DIAGRAM 6 Reverse side of work DIAGRAM 7 Reverse side of work A - photo 7

DIAGRAM 6
Reverse side of work

DIAGRAM 7 Reverse side of work A number of other counted-thread stitches can - photo 8

DIAGRAM 7
Reverse side of work

A number of other counted-thread stitches can be used in cross-stitch. Backstitch (Diagram 8) is used for outlines, face details and the like. It is worked from hole to hole, and may be stitched as a vertical, horizontal or diagonal line.

DIAGRAM 8 Straight stitch is worked from side to side over several threads - photo 9

DIAGRAM 8

Straight stitch is worked from side to side over several threads (Diagram 9) and affords solid coverage.

DIAGRAM 9 French knots Diagram 10 are handy for special effects They are - photo 10

DIAGRAM 9

French knots (Diagram 10) are handy for special effects. They are worked in the same manner as on regular embroidery.

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