Amy C. Balfour - New Orleans
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- Year:2012
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The things that make life worth living wine, song and feasting are the humid air New Orleans breathes.
We hope youre not reading this at home or in an airport. We hope youre actually in New Orleans. Because if so, youre about to eat better than any armchair traveler, plus most of the rest of the world. When it comes to food, New Orleans does not play. Well, OK, it does: it takes a playful attitude to ingredients and recipes, mixing (for example) alligator sausage and cheesecake into a dessert fit for the Gods. But it creates this mind-meltingly rich food with enterprise, innovation and a dedication to perfecting one of the USAs great indigenous cuisines, a culinary aesthetic that will leave you snoring in the happiest of food comas afterwards.
We are not exaggerating when we write the following words: there is either a festival or a parade every week of the year in New Orleans. Sometimes, like during Mardi Gras or Jazz Fest, it feels like theres a new party for every hour of the day. At almost any celebration in this town, people engage in masking donning a new appearance via some form of costuming, while acting out the Satyr-side of human behavior. But the celebrations and rituals of New Orleans are as much about history as hedonism. Every dance here is as much an expression of community spirit as it is of joy.
New Orleans is the hometown of jazz, but neither the city nor the genre she birthed are musical museum pieces. Jazz is the root of American popular music, the daddy of rock, brother of the blues and not too distant ancestor of hip-hop in other words, all the styles of music that have been the defining beat of global pop for decades. And every variety of music we mentioned, plus a few you may never have heard of, is practiced and played here on every corner, in any bar every night of the week. Live music here isnt an event. Its as crucial to the city soundscape as the streetcar bells.
There arent many places in the USA that wear their history as openly on their sleeves as New Orleans. This citys very facade is an architectural study par excellence. And while Boston and Charleston can boast beautiful buildings, theres a lived-in, cozy feeling to New Orleans thats easily accessible. As a result of this visible history theres a constant, often painful dialogue with the past, stretching back hundreds of years, a history that for all its controversy has produced a street culture that can be observed and grasped in a very visceral way.
By Adam Karlin, Author
In New Orleans, its all about beauty and experiencing the divine through mortal senses. Theres joy, from great food to the best concert of your life, and serenity, in the shade between live oaks, or watching fireflies on Bayou St John. Whichever way of being I choose to be for the day, New Orleans indulges me. Basically, I like traveling with soft eyes, eyes that see as a child, with wonder. This town gives me soft eyes the moment I step out the door.
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Looks arent always skin deep. In this city, the architectural skin is integral to the spirit and an undeniably distinctive sense of place. What immediately sets New Orleans apart from America is the architecture of the Creole faubourgs (Fo-burgs), or neighborhoods. This includes the shaded porches of the French Quarter, of course, but also filigreed Marigny homes, candy-colored Bywater cottages and the grande manses of Esplanade Avenue. Look down any of these streets and know, intuitively and intensely, you are in New Orleans.
French Quarter; Faubourg Marigny & Bywater
Let us start by saying what Mardi Gras is not: beads and breasts. With the exception of some rowdy crowds on Canal St, most visitors, and all locals, keep their clothes (or bodypaint) on. And oh, what clothes. Youll see the most fantastic costumes (plus some boring yellow-purple-green rugby shirts Uptown), the weirdest pageantry, West African ritual, Catholic liturgy and massive parade floats, all culminating in the single most exhausting, exhilarating day of your life. Happy Mardi Gras, baby.
History doesnt just come alive at the National WWII Museum. It parachutes behind enemy lines, scans the horizon for invaders and slams onto Omaha Beach. Vivid photographs, first-person oral histories, compelling artifacts and an exciting 4-D movie trace Americas involvement in the war, from the bombing of Pearl Harbor to the Allied victories in Germany and Japan. The New Orleans connection? The D-Day amphibious landing crafts were designed by local entrepreneur Andrew Higgins, and they were invaluable to the success of the invasion, which was a turning point in the war.
CBD & Warehouse District
Forget Fifth Avenue. Erase Oxford Circus. So long, Saint-Honore. Magazine St, specifically the 3-mile stretch of it that smiles along the bottom bend of New Orleans Uptown, may be the worlds best shopping street. Oh, sure, there are no big-name big boxes with thumping house music, but there is a glut of indie boutiques; tons of vintage; poboys for the hungry; antique warehouses galore; art galleries in profusion; big shady trees; and architecture that will charm your toes off. All this, and Ms Maes ().
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