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Perrins presents this delightful account of building a sugarhouse and makingmaple sugar in Vermont.
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UNIVERSITY PRESS OF NEW ENGLAND publishes books under its own imprint and is the publisher for Brandeis University Press, Brown University Press, Clark University Press, University of Connecticut, Dartmouth College, Middlebury College Press, University of New Hampshire, University of Rhode Island, Tufts University, University of Vermont, and Wesleyan University Press.
DARTMOUTH COLLEGE Published by University Press of New England Hanover, NH 03755
1972 by Noel Perrin. Postpostscript 1986 by Noel Perrin. Postpost-postscript 1992 by Noel Perrin. All rights reserved
The first section originally appeared as the article "Letter from Vermont" 1970 The New Yorker Magazine, Inc. The fourth section, "Steam Coming Out the Vent," first appeared in Vermont Life Magazine 1972.
Printed in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Perrin, Noel. Amateur sugar maker / by Noel Perrin; illustrated by Robert Maclean. 20th anniversary ed. p. cm. Originally published: 1972. With new postscript. ISBN 0-87451-579-3 1. Maple sugar. 2. Maple syrup. 3. Country lifeVermont. I. Title. TP395.P47 1992 641.3'364dc20 91-50818
Page 5
for those lovers of maple sap, Lily and Margaret Perrin
Page 7
Note
This book is about building a sugarhouse and making maple syrup in a small Vermont town. It is written in conscious admiration of Henry David Thoreaunot that Thoreau ever did any sugaring. But Thoreau liked to see how little money it is possible to spend, and still do what you want. And he liked to see how much of a project one man can do alone, with just his hands and a few tools.
Page 8
Having gone to Vermont as a teacher ten years ago, I wanted to try my hand at sugaring. I didn't hope to make my living at it, but I didn't mean just to play games, either. Insofar as possible, I meant to do the work myself, and I meant to keep expenses down to the point where I really would earn a small part of my living by making syrup, as I earn another small part by cutting and selling firewood. I like an edge of hard labor to my life.
Vermont has a long history of people who like that sort of edge. There have been times in its history when almost literally no one in the state wasn't doing the plainest sort of manual work. Maybe not as a career, but sometimes. My favorite example comes from the year 1860. There was then in St. Johnsbury a young man named Edward Fairbanks, a member of the leading family in town and one of the two or three top families in the state. They owned what is now the Fairbanks Morse Division of Colt Industries and was then just the Fairbanks Company. Edward's uncle Erastus Fairbanks was a past governor of Vermont
Page 9
and was running again that very fall on the Republican ticket. (He won handily.) Edward himself had gone to Andover and then to Yale, where he graduated in 1859. In 1860 he was home for a year, helping round the factory.
St. Johnsbury, along with about fifty other Vermont towns, was due to be included in the first volume of the Vermont Historical Gazetteer that year; and doubtless because of his Ivy League training in scholarship, young Edward Fairbanks was asked to do the history of his home town.
This led him to write to an old farmer in western Vermont named Henry Stevens, the biggest collector of historical documents in the state. He later founded the Vermont Historical Society. Stevens was then sixty-eight, a semiretired farmer who also owned a couple of mills and had served in the state legislature. He had made enough money to send his own son to Yale. And on the side he had picked up about twenty thousand old documents: letters of St. John de Crvecoeur (for whom St. Johnsbury is named), and so forth.
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When Edward Fairbanks wrote and asked if he could come pay a visit and look through the collection, Stevens wrote back:
Burlington, Oct. 10, 1860 Dear Sir: Your letter of Oct. 2 received. In answer to a portion of it as to making a visit here to copy MSS. I have to sayMrs. Stevens and myself occupy a comfortable house. I have to say further that all who are disposed to make us a call are welcome. We will set the table in the front room 3 days. After that time we dine in the kitchen. Three days we call a visit. According to established usage, if our friends stay more than 3 days it is expected they will do chores night and morning. We find the frock or apron as required. Come when you please. Now as to historical matters
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