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Kerr - Sky burial: an eyewitness account of Chinas brutal crackdown in Tibet

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Kerr Sky burial: an eyewitness account of Chinas brutal crackdown in Tibet
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On pilgrimage -- Sky burial -- Return to Tibet.

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S KY B URIAL An Eyewitness Account of Chinas Brutal Crackdown in Tibet BLAKE - photo 1

S KY B URIAL

An Eyewitness Account
of Chinas Brutal Crackdown
in Tibet

BLAKE KERR

Snow Lion Publications
Ithaca, New York

Snow Lion Publications

P.O. Box 6483

Ithaca, New York 14851 USA

tel: 607-273-8519

Copyright 1997 by Blake Kerr

All rights reserved. No portion of this work may be reproduced by any means without written permission from the publisher.

ISBN-1-55939-080-8

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Kerr, Blake.

Sky Burial: an eyewitness account of Chinas brutal crackdown in Tibet / Blake Kerr; foreword by the Dalai Lama; introduction by Heinrich Harrer.

p. cm.

Originally published : Chicago : Nobles Press, 1993

ISBN 1-55939-080-8 (alk. paper)

1. Tibet (China)Politics and government19512. Tibet (China)Description and travel. I. Title.

DS786.K39 1997

951'.5dc21

97-33448

CIP

When the iron bird flies and horses run on wheels, the Tibetan people will be scattered like ants across the world and the Dharma will come to the land of the Red Man.

Padmasambhava, eighth century

Acknowledgments

I would like to thank Geri Thoma at the Elaine Markson Literary Agency for getting Sky Burial published, and Doug Seibold at Noble Press for his editorial expertise. I am also indebted to John Ackerly, Margaret Alice Doorty, Mitch Pacelle, Philip Turner, and Kate Skinner Kerr for their comments and guidance through different stages of the manuscript. Most of all, I would like to thank all of the Tibetans that I have met. Without their courage in the face of adversity, I would not have been able to finish this book.

The events and experiences I recount here are all true. However, the identities of many of the characters in this story, Westerners and Tibetans alike, have been altered in order to protect individuals privacy and/or security.

Introduction
by Heinrich Harrer
Author of Seven Years in Tibet

In 1991, after the United States government gave permission for an additional 1,000 Tibetan refugees to settle in North America, I came to this country for a fundraising tour. In Washington, D.C., I met Dr. Blake Kerr. When I heard that he had witnessed the fall 1987 uprisings in Lhasa, I was of course interested to hear more. It was the first time I heard a firsthand report from a man who was a reliable witness to the suffering of the Tibetans, who half a century ago had been my generous hosts for seven years. I had lived with them at a time when they were a happy people in a happy country, under the leadership of the Dalai Lama, who so deservedly received the Nobel Peace Prize for 1989.

What attracted me to the author was the love and admiration we share for the Tibetans and their beautiful country. Without hesitation he gave me a number of his and John Ackerlys slides that illustrate the uprising in Lhasa and the courage of the Tibetans. I also learned for the very first time of the latest and most unbelievable cruelty of the Chinesethe sterilization of Tibets women.

When I first read the manuscript of Sky Burial, I was impressed by all its many fine details; but I was also depressed to learn that life for the Tibetans is even worse than I had heard. The writer himself, a young American physician, is in every respect entitled to give us information on what is really happening in Tibet now that the Chinese occupy the country: torture, coerced abortions, and sterilization. Dr. Kerr was witness to the suffering of a people who struggle to be free.

The people of the free world have read many books and seen many pictures testifying to the destruction of 99 percent of Tibets temples, shrines, hermitages, and monasteries, and have heard of the incredible number of Tibetans who have lost their lives. In Sky Burial the reader will suffer with the Tibetans, and understand how desperately they need our help in their struggle to survive.

March, 1993
Liechtenstein

Foreword
by Tenzin Gyatso
The XIV Dalai Lama

In the first days of October, 1987, I was asked by reporters from around the world about a demonstration that had occurred in Lhasa. During my thirty-four years of living in exile in northern India, I had heard of many other such protests in my native land, but not until months after they had happened. China had been very successful in keeping information from leaking out of Tibetuntil October 1, 1987.

I remember meeting Dr. Blake Kerr and John Ackerly in mid-October immediately after they came out of Tibet. They were the first eyewitnesses of the October 1 demonstration with whom I spoke. When they told me they had seen Chinese police kill unarmed Tibetans who were peacefully calling for freedom, I was deeply saddened. But I was also encouraged that my people had maintained their nonviolent resistance, despite Chinas use of lethal force. On behalf of six million Tibetans, I wish to thank all of the Western tourists whose hearts, in the face of truth, went out to the Tibetan side.

Since Chinas army invaded Tibet in 1950, one million Tibetansone-fifth of my peoplehave died. Over 6,000 monasteries have been destroyed, and with them much of Tibets 1,200 years of history, Buddhism, and art. I believe that Tibetans are currently struggling through one of their darkest moments. Now more than ever the world needs to heed Tibets message of nonviolence and respect for all living beings.

PART ONE
On Pilgrimage
CHAPTER ONE
Take the Next Train to Tibet

On a break from Dartmouth College in the summer of 1979, I went mountaineering in Kashmir, Northern India. It was monsoon season, the season of ifs, and port-wine clouds followed me up the valleys like bleating lambs until they exploded over the mountains in a frenzy of wind and torrential rain. My guide, Gulam, made rice and vegetables in the evenings and asked about the days climb. He also inquired about how much money I made, how much money each material possession I had cost, and how much money I had left. Every night.

I am thinking, Sahib, Gulam said, eyeing my camera covetously.

Please dont call me Sahib, Gulam.

As you wish, Sahib. I am thinking that you must be very tired of getting wet like this. You will be going to your home country soon.

Gulam was right. It was too dangerous to climb alone in the rain. But the mountains were beautiful during storms: warm wind heavy with moisture breaking into translucent waves across an ice ridge; waterfalls leaping off the moonscape of sculpted snow; glaciers trembling under the rains weight. What does this have to do with my camera? I asked.

You are a rich man, Sahib. I am a poor man. So why are you not giving me your camera when you leave? A present for all that Gulam has done for you.

I need my camera to take pictures.

You can get another camera in your country, Sahib. A better one. I cannot get such a camera in India. You could be selling it to me.

No thanks, Gulam.

What is thanks? I am telling you. I am a humble servant of God. All I am asking

If you are a humble servant of God, you shouldnt need material things to make you happy. I am not as fortunate. I come from the most material of worlds. I need my camera to be happy.

Perhaps there is something else, Gulam continued. Something that you are wanting very much. Something only Gulam can give you.

I doubt it.

For instance, Sahib. I am knowing that the mountains in Tibet are too high for the monsoon. Tibet is a high-altitude desert, I am telling you. It never rains in Tibet. As Gulam kept talking, I remembered reading T. Lobsang Rampas The Third Eye as an adolescent. My mind still harbored vivid images of monks who meditated in caves for years and diagnosed diseases in their incipient stages long before they became manifest. As a boy I knew very little about Tibet, but I had always wanted to go there.

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