Jonathan Waterman - Chasing Denali: The Sourdoughs, Cheechakos, and Frauds Behind the Most Unbelievable Feat in Mountaineering

For Elizabeth Kaplan, my literary agent, who believed in me when the story seemed unlikely to fly, you gave this book wings. Thank you.

Looking back three dozen years I am also indebted to the park servicein particular, all of the staff at the Talkeetna Ranger Station and at Denali National Park headquartersfor initially hiring me in 1982, then covering my expenses as a volunteer during the final tour of duty in the summer of 2016. For too many partners to name on and around the mountain since 1976, this book is written with you in mind. Most recently, my regrets to Ranger Bob Tomato, Michael Hutchins, Bobby Cosker, Justin Fraser, Jeff Hamilton, and Cory Inman in case my observations strayed far from theirs while up on the mountain; in my mind our trip remains a stellar example of mountaineering camaraderie and teamwork. My appreciation also remains boundless for the men and women of the Department of the Interior who have served, and in some instances given their lives, on the mountain.

I am thankful to Brian Okonek, formerly of Alaska-Denali Guiding, who hired me so many years ago. Then more recently, he tipped me off with leads about the Sourdoughs, and finally, gave this manuscript a proofread and made corrections that no other reader, mountaineer, or historian would have caught.

To David and Aisha Stevenson: thanks for the ride and ongoing Alaska hospitality. Stateside, Alison Osius and Duane Raleigh, my editors at Ascent , kindly allowed (and fixed) my original Denali-sized, book-inspiring article, The Donut Eaters, which became The Sourdough Enigma, published in the spring of 2017. And to Lynn Aliya, my sounding board and reader as the idea all came together.

I am also grateful for the support of, David Loftus, Ted Loftus, Ann Younger, Ken and Eugene Karstens, Tom Falley, Roger Robinson, Mark Westman, Laura Waterman, Jed Williamson, Gary Kofinas, Beth Selzer, Daniel Osborne, Steve Swenson, Andy Hall, Daryl Miller, Bill Rotecki, Bill Joiner, Patricia Schmidt, Jeff Babcock, and Lou Dawson. I would like to thank the attorney, film agent, famous actor who read the audio version, and administrative-assistant typistbut since these people dont exist, I will thank my most faithful and aged companion. Jax laid patiently as I spent endless hours writing, rewriting, reading, deleting, and then rewriting again. When I could take no more, Jax encouraged me to run with him, often uphill, where all my best ideas sprang forthhes only a rescue dog, but without him I mightve been lost. Otherwise, salvation from the countless hours of home-office isolation were somewhat relieved by working at a corner table in townthank you Bonfire Coffee.

Finally, for the childless, long-deceased, yet skookum, husky sonsofagun Sourdoughs Billy Taylor, Pete Anderson, and Charlie McGonagallthanks for the inspiration. Im still riding downhill without using the brakes.

A LSO BY J ON W ATERMAN

Northern Exposures
The Colorado River
Running Dry
Where Mountains Are Nameless
Arctic Crossing
The Quotable Climber (Editor)
A Most Hostile Mountain
Kayaking the Vermilion Sea
In the Shadow of Denali
Cloud Dancers (Editor)
High Alaska
Surviving Denali

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Copyright 2019 Jon Waterman

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ISBN 978-1-4930-3519-9 (hardcover)
ISBN 978-1-4930-3520-5 (e-book)

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Printed in the United States of America

For Nicholas and Alistair, again.

We have only to follow the thread of the hero path, and where we had thought to find an abomination, we shall find a god.