Max Cordell - Camino Ingles - The Road Less Travelled

Camino Ingles The Road Less Travelled

By Max Cordell

Why choose the Camino Ingles When to go Preparation What to pack What not to pack Getting to the start point Stage by stage in detail Packing list Useful links My personal journey

All rights Reserved 2017 Max Cordell

T his booklet offers hints and tips based on my own experience of walking the Camino Ingles. Its aimed mainly at first-timers, but there is something of interest to anyone planning on walking this or any Camino, even if theyve walked one before. The booklet is in several sections.

I talk about the planning stages; how to prepare yourself physically and mentally for what may be a challenge. I go on to suggest a packing list based on the mistakes I made as a first-time walker. How to get to the start. Then we go on to advice specific to the Camino Ingles, stage by stage. What the guide books dont always tell you.

W hy? Because the route is quieter than the more famous route, can be covered in five days, and is long enough to qualify you to receive the Compostela, a certificate described in the next couple of paragraphs.

Many people who have heard of The Camino, the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela, think of the Camino Frances, the one made famous in the film The Way, starring Martin Sheen. But not everyone knows there are several routes to Santiago. The Camino Ingles is an old route traditionally used by pilgrims from the North; from places like Ireland, England, Scandinavia.

At the end of your walk, in the city of Santiago, the authorities there issue you with a certificate of completion - a Compostela. But the thing is you must have walked at least 100 km to qualify. You will need to stop at various churches, bars, cafes and albergues along the way to get a "sello" (a stamp) to prove you've covered the distance.

Although the more famous Camino Frances, starting in the French border town of St Jean Pierre de Port, is 750 km (about 6 weeks walking) many people start their walk much nearer Santiago, in a town called Sarria, to gain their 100 km Compostela. Research shows this part of the Camino is very busy. And with people numbering in the hundreds comes noise, disruption and litter and, in the high season, a rush for a bed for the night.

The Camino Ingles avoids all this. Typically there will be around 15 - 20 people on the stage of the Way at the same time as you. You may not see much of them on your walk if you wish to be alone, but you will meet up with them every evening at the next albergue. This makes for a sense of security and belonging. But this Camino does have a few challenges, which I describe in a later section. By the way, if this is your first Camino please don't worry about the word "challenges". I'm only thinking of a few steep hills, and in a later section I suggest how you might prepare for the whole experience. Personally I loved every moment of my Camino Ingles experience; quiet country lanes, the smells of pine and eucalyptus trees, gorse and orange blossom, the warm breeze. More of this later.

T his part of Spain has Atlantic weather. That means it can be wet (it will rain at some point in your walk) and changeable. You will want to make your own plans and decisions but my own research indicated that late May to early June offers the best chance of decent warm and not too hot weather, quiet roads and early summer foliage. You would be advised not to make the journey in winter as the albergues may be closed and some sections would be dangerous in ice and snow; and short daylight hours would have you stumbling around in the dark. The date you travel determines what clothing you pack but I would stress again, it will rain so rainwear is a must.

W e all know the old saying "Fail to prepare, prepare to fail".

Admin - the paperwork

First up, you will need to apply at least a month ahead for your credencial - your pilgrims passport. You get this stamped at places along the way to show that you have actually walked The Way.

Where to get your credencial:

In the UK you can apply to the Confraternity of St James Confraternity of St James

Otherwise, a search on the internet will easily locate a source of this vital document in your own country.

Check the expiry date on your passport and check for any visa requirement for entry into Spain.

Do you need health insurance? (Remember, if you are a resident of a EU country get a form E111 and card which entitles you to medical treatment in Spain. You may have to pay on the day but your own country will reimburse you.)

Tell your bank you are going to be using your debit and credit cards in Spain or the bank may block your attempts to buy things or draw cash.

Philosophy. A reason why

My friends kept asking my why I was going on this walk. I told them I didn't know why but this never seemed satisfactory. Everyone has their own reasons but often they can't be articulated.

Then I went to hear a talk by Satish Kumar, the monk who walked 8,000 miles for peace in the 1970's. Speaking to him after the talk I realised that my purpose was Trust; trust in myself, trust in The Way, trust in that entity some people call God. He said to me, "If you can't find a bed for the night, what does it matter? Sleep outdoors. Who needs a 5 star hotel when you sleep under a million stars?" In the event, of course, finding a bed is not a problem. And setting off with the trust that it would all work out was very liberating.

You may already know why you are going, or you may find out what it was that called you to The Way some months after your return. Who can say?

The accepted wisdom, though, is not to go with any expectations; expectations of any enlightenment, or any resolution to your problems. And don't make any life-changing decisions on The Way. There is a sense of simplicity on The Way that is not always applicable to the everyday world.

Training.

Before you set off, unless you are used to long walks I would suggest you build your training up over a number of weeks to the stage where you can walk 3 days of 20+ km each day. Apart from the fitness you will build up, this will reassure you that you can do it! Mental toughness is perhaps as necessary as physical toughness. By the way, when you practice choose a route that will take you up and down some demanding hills, so you engage all your leg muscles. A level path is not going to test you. This training period alone will teach you something about your motivation.

As well as walking practice one thing I would recommend, something that I failed to do, is Yoga. I would suggest this in preference to gym or weight training. The reason? Whats needed on your walk is core strength (the inner musculature not the muscles you see). Core strength supports your back and the vital organs. Then you need supple joints; shoulders and leg joints particularly. Yoga is excellent for these two elements of good health. The only gym exercises that might be of benefit would be squats to strengthen the cartilage of your knees and ankles, and The Plank (look it up on the internet if youre not sure), which strengthens your core and so will keep your spine straight.

One aspect of this training is for you to become body aware. What I mean by that is learn to listen to your body. When does it need rest, or water, or an energy bar? Listen to these calls and obey them for the sake of your health. Dehydration and exhaustion are real risks for people who push their body too hard on the route.

Lastly you need to get your equipment together. What are you going to pack?