Cycle Europe, Walk the Camino Copyright 2013 by G J Murtagh.
The purpose of this book is to encourage you to take to the road either walking or cycling and to maybe venture further afield from your own local area involving a stay away from home of three or more nights. I have attempted to answer the simple question how do I go about it?
This book is aimed primarily at the solo traveller but applies equally to small groups.
I have detailed two circular routes in Ireland and outlined several others in France, Germany, Alsace and the Camino in Spain. All these routes can be walked or cycled. I have not included maps but instead refer in each case to the relevant website with maps and other helpful features. The distances shown are estimates.
The simplest is a loop walk or cycle so you can return to where you started.
The most adventurous journey is the Camino and I have included advice on preparing for and managing your walk along with sample itineraries.
I normally plan to cycle 60km a day so I can enjoy the scenery and stop for interesting places. These journeys can be done quicker than I have indicated but are not designed to be speed trials.
All the photos in this book were taken by me on my travels and may not therefore be the traditional views generally associated with each of the routes.
Getting there and back
With any journey it is always advisable to have your return journey planned. The trips outlined in this book assume you are travelling on your own.
One variation is to have someone meet you with transport at the end of your walk or cycle so you dont need to do a loop or return to where you started.
Even better is have someone follow you in a car and take your luggage with them this makes travelling easier for you and gives you company in the evening since its nice to chat with friends amiably over dinner rather than scrutinise the other diners and the waiter!
For Spain, Germany, Alsace and France I have taken Paris as the starting point and therefore given directions from there.
Places to Stay and Eat
Throughout this book I have referred to Hotels where I stayed. Generally I looked for Bed and Breakfast wherever I could find it or two or three star Hotels and then have dinner in a local restaurant.
Occasionally I went for luxury, for example, the Paradors in Spain when I felt the need for sanity or that I deserved to be pampered!
Restaurants vary by country and town and where I had a memorable meal I have suggested a visit may be enjoyable but this is a very personal experience so dont take my suggestions as a guarantee of enjoyment tastes and staff change frequently.
I generally found the Logis group of hotels in France to be wonderful. They always cater for the solo traveller with good food, wine and a welcoming smile. They even look after the bicycle.
The Ring of Kerry in South West Ireland is a natural three day cycle and because it is a ring ie a loop you can start and stop anywhere. It has everything the cyclist could want beautiful scenery, a well surfaced road, hills and valleys, a plentiful variety of accommodation and restaurants and the hospitable Kerry people.
I favour starting at Killorglin (famous for the Puck Fair held every year in August) on the North East corner and cycling anti clockwise so I am on the inside of the road looking out at the sea since the road is narrow in places and can be busy with coaches in the high season.You can hire bicycles in Killorglin, Kenmare and Killarney.
Getting There
- By car to anywhere in Kerry
- Bus to Killarney via Limerick and Tralee
- Train to Tralee or Killarney
- Fly to Kerry airport at Faranfore
Websites
- www.ringofkerrycycle.ie [This website was designed for a charity cycle round the ring and includes an outline map of the route]
- www.discoverireland.ie [This website also has details of each stage]
- www.buseireann.ie
- www.irishrail.ie
- www.bikehirekerry.com
- www.killarneyrentabike.com
- www.kerryway.com
Day One: Killorglin to Waterville
Killorglin to Glenbeigh (13km / 8m)
First stop after about an hour is Glenbeigh. Alternatively start and finish at Glenbeigh. Glenbeigh is a small village coffee shops, supermarket and hotels with good bar food and excellent restaurant in the Towers Hotel.
Glenbeigh to the Quarry (22km / 14m)
Next stop is the Quarry near Kells. Pats craft shop good selection of merchandise and restaurant upstairs.
The Quarry to Caherciveen (6km / 4m)
On to Caherciveen birth place of Daniel OConnell. Good sized town with Bank, Cathedral named after Daniel O Connell restaurants, pubs, supermarket etc.
Caherciveen to Waterville (16km/10m)
Finally to Waterville. Lovely sleepy seaside village choice of Hotels and B&Bs. Stay in the Klondyke B&B and walk across the road to Dooleys restaurant for dinner!
Day Two: Waterville to Kenmare
Waterville to Scariff Inn (5km/3m)
A long winding hill as you leave Waterville takes about 45 minutes steady cycling to reach the summit with spectacular views and then freewheel for five minutes to reach Scariff Inn Restaurant and craft shop with panoramic views of the sea and islands from the restaurant.
Scariff to Sneem (30km / 19m)
Continue downhill and enjoy the sea views until the road flattens and then its fairly flat and winding with sea views leading to a long slow gradual climb. Then about 2km before Sneem without any warning you reach a summit and then the inspiring descent into Sneem through the tree clad hills. Sneem is a natural stopping place a colourful and interesting village with craft shops, pubs and restaurants and a great home bakery. Good place to stop for lunch and wander around the village.
Sneem to Kenmare (27km / 17m)
Sneem to Kenmare is a slog no big hills but continuously undulating until Templenoe. The road ahead looks like a series of hills and valleys but in reality the speed downhill more or less takes you up the next hill. Before long you are freewheeling down the Sneem road past B&Bs on the left and turn right to the centre of Kenmare. Kenmare is an old market town with traffic flowing one way round three streets built in a triangular shape. It has built up a well deserved reputation for good food restaurants with lots of choice of restaurants at all prices. Dont ignore Tom Creans restaurant named after the Antarctic explorer.
Day Three: Kenmare to Killorglin
Kenmare to Molls Gap (13km / 8m)
This is the big one! You can go to Killarney along the main road or go up the hill and through Molls gap. This is a steep winding route with spectacular views and normally takes just under an hour. As an alternative to the route outlined below (via Killarney) , cycle straight past the Avoca Cafe at Molls Gap, take a sharp right turn to a steep downhill to Black Valley, then uphill through the scenic Gap of Dunloe to Beaufort and then follow the signs to Killorglin as below. Avoca craft shop and caf at Molls gap serves hot scones, pavlova and a full range of food for lunch. From the restaurant you can see the next stage downhill to Killarney!