Peter Murtagh - Buen Camino!. A Father-Daughter Journey from Croagh Patrick to Santiago de Compostela

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BUEN CAMINO!

A fatherdaughter journey from Croagh Patrick to Santiago de Compostela

NATASHA MURTAGH AND PETER MURTAGH

Gill & Macmillan

About the Author

Natasha Murtagh is a first-year student of English and Philosophy at University College Dublin. She lives at home in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, with her parents and brother, three dogs and two cats.
Peter Murtagh is Foreign Editor at The Irish Times. He is co-author (with Joe Joyce) of two books, The Boss, Charles J Haughey in Government (1983) and Blind Justice, the Sallins Mail Train Robbery (1984). He is author of The Rape of Greecethe king, the colonels and the resistance (1994) and has edited 11 editions of The Irish Times Book of the Year. He received the Award for Outstanding Work in Irish Journalism in 1984 and was Reporter of the Year in Britain in 1986 while working for The Guardian. He is 58 years old and also lives at home with his wife Moira, son Patrick and Natasha, and the same three dogs and two cats.

Peter: For Moira and Patrick

who were with us every step

of the way.

Natasha: For my Dad.

Thank you for being my Camino

and my inspiration.

I love you.

The walking pilgrim

With scarce belongings on your back

And enormous heritage in your soul.

Free from material things,

You greet many people

And love even more,

Free from material things,

You smile to all,

And give away good wishes.

This is how you will climb and climb,

Feet firmly on the ground,

Walking to your dream.

Pilgrim, walk in freedom,

Walk without your belongings;

Pilgrim, always towards your destination,

But never alone.

You encounter many in your way,

And they remain forever in your heart.

You carry them in your rose-scented hands,

With which you give not only objects

But also joy.

Pilgrim, may God remain forever

Wherever you transit.

POEM IN A CHURCH ON THE CAMINO

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| INTRODUCTION

T he Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage to the reputed tomb of St James, whose shrine is in the great cathedral named in his honour in Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, northwest Spain. The Camino is over 1,000 years old and is rich in Christian history and heritage, and indeed in pre-Christian history as well. It attracts people of all faiths and, increasingly, people of none.

Like all pilgrimages, the Camino is a journey. It is an actual physical journey in the sense that it is a walk (or a cycle) from the Pyrnes in France, across Navarra and into Pamplona, then on to the Rioja and across the great Meseta Alta, the high plateau of central northern Spain, home to the cities of Burgos and Len, and finally over the mountains of Len into Galicia and to the beautiful city of Santiago. The distance is a little short of 800 kilometres, and for those so inclined there is a further 85-kilometre Camino to Finisterre, to the end of the earth, where the sun sets beyond the horizon in the Atlantic Ocean.

For some pilgrims, the Camino is a journey intimately connected to their faith, or perhaps faltering faith, in God, and a quest for renewal. But the appeal of the Camino is very broad, and for many who undertake it the pilgrimage is a journey of a different sort. It may be a journey of examination of ones life to date, taking slices of time and events from a shelf of ones memory and examining them. It may be a journey taken in remembrance of a recently departed loved one, a time to process feelings and raw emotions, a way of saying goodbye. It may be a journey away from something, the pressures of contemporary life perhaps, which turns into a journey towards something else, a changed life. It may be a journey that is quite simply the pressing of a pause button, time out to take stock.

In all cases the Camino is an opportunity for contemplation and reflection, and many people who undertake the journey find that this contemplative aspect of the pilgrimage has a strongly spiritual side to it.

The history of the Camino is intimately connected to the growth of Catholicism in Spain and the re-conquest of the country from the Moors. Religion can be very much part of the Camino for those who want it. But nothing is forced and many non-Roman Catholics, such as ourselves, feel perfectly at home, and are welcomed, when they choose to participate in Masses or other purely religious aspects of Camino life.

There are several different Camino routes in Spain, some starting in France and indeed elsewhere in western Europe. We walked the Camino Francs, the so-called French Way which is the main Camino and goes from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the Pyrnes to Santiago and on to Finisterre. We began our Camino by climbing Croagh Patrick in Co. Mayo on Reek Sunday to make a special connection between our home in Ireland and our pilgrimage in Spain. We did the Camino simply because we love it and wanted to write a book about ita book about ourselves and the people we met on the wayand to do it as father and daughter; spending time together, having fun together. Because we walked part of the Camino before, 300 kilometres from Len to Santiago, we knew what to expect. We love the people we meet, the friends we make, the places we see and stay in, and the fun and challenge of it all. We love the countryside through which we walk and the altered perspective on life that comes from living simply when you turn away, even for a short time, from the pressure and demands of contemporary, urban living.

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