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A lady - The Englishwoman in Russia

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A lady The Englishwoman in Russia
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Frontispiece. A Review. Charge of 10,000 Cavalry.

THE
ENGLISHWOMAN IN RUSSIA;
IMPRESSIONS OF THE SOCIETY AND MANNERS
OF THE
RUSSIANS AT HOME.
BY A LADY,
TEN YEARS RESIDENT IN THAT COUNTRY.
Peter the Greats Statue, and the Office of the Senate.
With Illustrations.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1855.
The Proprietor of the Copyright of this Work reserves to himself the right
of Translation in Foreign Countries.

TO
HER BROTHER,
THESE PAGES ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY
THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.
Without troubling the reader with any account of a sea voyage from England to Archangel, as all travels on the vasty deep present pretty much the same features which have been so frequently and so well described by others, I will only observe that circumstances induced me to reside for more than ten years in Russia, which I have only recently quitted.
The following pages contain a simple account of the manners, customs, and genre de vie chez eux of a people whose domestic habits are comparatively but little known to the English nation.
Of the truth of many of the anecdotes I can assure the reader; others I have had from good authority, and I have every reason to believe that they are veracious.
The names of persons that are inserted in the text are not those of Russian families: the Russians, like the ancient Greeks, have a termination denoting parentage; the syllables vitch for the masculine, and ovna for the feminine, are merely equivalent to the classic ides. Thus, Dmitri Ivanovitch, means Demetrius the son of Ivan; Cleopatra Ivanovna, Cleopatra the daughter of Ivan, &c. I have therefore betrayed none, because the surname is omitted; I have also taken the further precaution to change one of the names in every instance, lest my friends should incur any evil consequences from their government, which is at the present time so exceedingly suspicious, that, for the most harmless expression, the offender who made use of it would be liable to be banished to Siberia.
I trust that I have done full justice to all the amiable and social excellences of the Russians. Of their other qualities I beg the reader to form his own judgment. Une nation de barbares polis, said a French gentleman, in speaking of them; but one cannot deny that they possess the good qualities of savages, as well as their bad ones. Perhaps the Muscovite character is the most difficult of any to understand; and after living for years in Russia, it is very possible not to know the Russians. They seem indeed to possess two characters, each distinguished by traits diametrically opposed to those of the other. One may be considered as their private, and the other as their public character; and I cannot pretend to the power of defining them. I have seen a Russian colonel, known for his excessive severity, who would witness unmoved the terrible infliction of the knout, perfectly unable to control his tears at the mimic sorrows of a French actress. He that is mean and despicable in public life, is often kind, amiable, and liberal at home. He who would be merciless and oppressive to his inferiors, is frequently affectionate to his family and sincere to his friend. The lady who would be shocked to say a petulant word to an acquaintance, would not hesitate to strike her maid; and though she would be overwhelmed with grief at the distress she could see, she would, by her reckless extravagance, cause the severest sufferings to her serfs, and reduce them to the extremity of want, without feeling remorse.
This slight sketch of Muscovite manners having no pretension whatever to literary excellence, the writer trusts that its manner of delineation will escape criticism, and that its truthfulness will counterbalance the many faults it undoubtedly contains.
The interest at present excited by a nation with whom the English are at war has induced her to listen to several friends who have recommended her to present these written observations to the public.
London, October, 1854.

CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.
Aspect of the DwinaCrosses erected by the peasantsSunset in the NorthRussian boats and barksBoatmenTheir cargoesSolombolShallowness of the riverArchangelSamodesTheir mode of livingA visit to their Tchume, or encampmentReindeer and sledgesSamode bridegroomA wedding-feastThe Samode costumeTheir ideas of the Supreme BeingA keepsakeCatching a reindeerManner of eatingStrange custom
CHAPTER II.
Wedding of a Starostas daughterPoliteness of the hostThe guestsThe brideBridal etiquetteDescription of the brides dressThe bridegroomThe hospitality shownThe amusements of the guestsImprovised songsThe bridegrooms richesDemeanour of the companyDance of the peasant-womenDance of the menNational songs
CHAPTER III.
Travellers in RussiaFalse impressionsCivilization in the Czars dominionsPublic roadsMorasses and forestsThe Vologda roadWretched horsesRough roadsThe crown peasantsAspect of the villagesCivilization of the peopleVanity of the RussiansProvincial townsThe churchesThe postmastersThe yemstchicks or driversPersonal appearance of the peasantryTheir costumesCrossing the DwinaPleasing sceneVillage burying-ground
CHAPTER IV.
Vologda: its inhabitantsA Polish ladyTreatment of the PolesRussian ladies: their politenessPeter the Greats civilizationSlavery: its effects on the characterConversationCard-playingA princessPovertyFilthy householdsEqual division of propertyCause of povertyAn old gambler
CHAPTER V.
Our journeyKabitkasRussian customEndless forests and morassesDesolation of the countryMusical yemstchickScarcity of inhabitantsCriminals: their aspectA bad motherMonastery of SeeaVisit to the abbotThe churchA saints shrinePeasantsChange in the sceneryAccidentsThe driverA contented veteranLove of countrySoldiers songsRussian melodiesYemstchicks gratitudeAnother driver: his prospects in lifeBeautiful effectLadinapolSchlusselbergA village inn in Russia
CHAPTER VI.
Appearance of the capitalThe public buildingsThe statue of PeterThe quaysThe lighting of the streetsThe shops and shopmenA bargainThe dwornicks: their wretched lifeTea-taverns: the company assembledThe itinerant merchantsCossacksCircassians: their fidelityThe soldiers of the lineShameful treatmentThe butitchnickA sad occurrenceWinter aspectThe Nevsky PerspectiveCostumesA drowning manPolice regulationsNumber of murdersA poor mans funeralFuneral cortge of a princeEffect of twilightConvictsThe metropolitanThe EmperorPolice regulations on salutationsThe Kazane church
CHAPTER VII.
Places worth visitingPeters MuseumThe Czars worksCurious effigyThe war-horseThe Nevsky monasteryThe saints shrineMagnificent tombSuperstitionThe cemeteryCatherineImperial mausoleumDescription of the sarcophagiPrisonersPolitical offendersSpy systemBombardment of OdessaDumb spyA spy of rankAssemble de la noblesseMasked ballsRussian civilizationLove of moneyInebrietySociety in St. Petersburg
CHAPTER VIII.
Winter amusementsThe opera and French theatreHamletA true Russian playCorruption of the policeAnecdotesThe hermitageThe museumDinner partiesRussian hospitalityWant of informationThe censors office: its restrictions
CHAPTER IX.
Russian courtshipState of household servantsAnecdotesTrousseauxThe matrimonial candidateMatchmakersSerfs weddingsRich dowryMatchmakingsCurious customRussian marriagesBlessing the thresholdBridal partiesStatute-fair for wives in St. PetersburgHabit of paintingLottery of marriage, &c.
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