Demet Güzey - Mustard: A Global History

MUSTARD

Edible

Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith

EDIBLE is a revolutionary series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage.

Already published

Apple Erika Janik Banana Lorna Piatti-Farnell

Barbecue Jonathan Deutsch and Megan J. Elias Beef Lorna Piatti-Farnell

Beer Gavin D. Smith Berries Heather Arndt Anderson

Biscuits and Cookies Anastasia Edwards Brandy Becky Sue Epstein

Bread William Rubel Cabbage Meg Muckenhoupt Cake Nicola Humble

Caviar Nichola Fletcher Champagne Becky Sue Epstein

Cheese Andrew Dalby Chillies Heather Arndt Anderson

Chocolate Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch

Cocktails Joseph M. Carlin Coffee Jonathan Morris

Corn Michael Owen Jones Curry Colleen Taylor Sen

Dates Nawal Nasrallah Doughnut Heather Delancey Hunwick

Dumplings Barbara Gallani Edible Flowers Constance L. Kirker
and Mary Newman Eggs Diane Toops Fats Michelle Phillipov

Figs David C. Sutton Game Paula Young Lee

Gin Lesley Jacobs Solmonson Hamburger Andrew F. Smith

Herbs Gary Allen Herring Kathy Hunt Honey Lucy M. Long

Hot Dog Bruce Kraig Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss Lamb Brian Yarvin

Lemon Toby Sonneman Lobster Elisabeth Townsend

Melon Sylvia Lovegren Milk Hannah Velten Moonshine Kevin R. Kosar

Mushroom Cynthia D. Bertelsen Mustard Demet Gzey

Nuts Ken Albala Offal Nina Edwards Olive Fabrizia Lanza

Onions and Garlic Martha Jay Oranges Clarissa Hyman

Oyster Carolyn Tillie Pancake Ken Albala

Pasta and Noodles Kantha Shelke Pickles Jan Davison Pie Janet Clarkson

Pineapple Kaori OConnor Pizza Carol Helstosky

Pomegranate Damien Stone Pork Katharine M. Rogers

Potato Andrew F. Smith Pudding Jeri Quinzio Rice Renee Marton

Rum Richard Foss Salad Judith Weinraub Salmon Nicolaas Mink

Sandwich Bee Wilson Sauces Maryann Tebben Sausage Gary Allen

Seaweed Kaori OConnor Shrimp Yvette Florio Lane

Soup Janet Clarkson Spices Fred Czarra Sugar Andrew F. Smith

Sweets and Candy Laura Mason Tea Helen Saberi Tequila Ian Williams

Tomato Clarissa Hyman Truffle Zachary Nowak Vodka Patricia Herlihy

Water Ian MilleR Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar Wine Marc Millon

A Global History

Demet Gzey

REAKTION BOOKS

To Luca and Adriano team boys

Published by Reaktion Books Ltd
Unit 32, Waterside
4448 Wharf Road
London N1 7UX, UK
www.reaktionbooks.co.uk

First published 2019

Copyright Demet Gzey 2019

All rights reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior
permission of the publishers

Page References in the Index Match the Printed Edition of this Book.

Printed and bound in China by 1010 Printing International Ltd

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

eISBN 9781789141757

A seed contains life. It creates a plant, flowers and new seeds. Its cyclical nature is mundane and magnificent at the same time. So is the mustard seed. In its simplicity there is potency, permanence and timelessness.

Mustard is among the top three most used condiments in the world, sharing the stage with salt and pepper. It has been in the pantry of history for at least 4,000 years, and in written recipes in Europe since the second century. Mustard is more than a condiment; it is the embodiment of civilization, because the story of mustard is a story of medicine, myth and magic. Mustard is stimulating and potent but also simple and down-to-earth; it gives a lot of taste to a variety of dishes without the unhealthy connotations some condiments have. It has been the spice of the poor and the condiment of the rich. Its history is full of inventions, royal awards and medals. In this, mustard is an item of personal choice as well as national pride.

From mayonnaise to sauces, hot dogs to pretzels, soups to salads and meats, mustard accompanies and flavours our food around the world. This global life of mustard can be traced in cookbooks and advertisements, popular culture, literature and religious texts. This book aims to illustrate the tells the medical use of mustard as a treatment for illnesses, such as digestion and the common cold, for which it has been chewed as seeds, used as plasters or combined with other foods to balance their properties. Last but not least we explore the use of mustard sauce and oil in the kitchen, as an indispensable ingredient to many traditional dishes. The applications of mustard are as many as its seeds. The recipe section focuses mainly on historical and new ways to make mustard condiment and sauces, as well as their use in some of the iconic mustard dishes around the world.

Please pass the mustard!

The mustard plant belongs to the family Brassicaceae, otherwise known as the Cruciferae, as its flower petals resemble a cross. Other members of the family include cole vegetables such as radishes, turnips, cress and horseradish, and weeds such as wild mustard or charlock.

Mustard is a plant, a seed and a powder; it yields an oil, a condiment and an ingredient. It is used in food, in rituals, as forage for sheep, as green manure and even as biofuel for an intercontinental Boeing 787 Dreamliner. Some runners today eat packets of mustard while racing in order to prevent cramps. Mustard has been used as medicine and for seasoning food since prehistoric times. It has been found in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs and in the caves of Europe and China. Its seeds grow easily in a variety of climates, require minimal processing and have always been available to all levels in society.

The name mustard was born when the Romans mixed unfermented grape juice, must (Latin mustum), with ground mustard seeds and made a hot must, mustum ardens. Most countries in Europe have similar names for the condiment: it is called mustard in English, moutarde in French, mostaza in Spanish and mosterd in Dutch; in Hindi it is sarson, and in Arabic khardal, both suggesting a unique origin, independent of the Roman influence.