Copyright 1997, 2004, 2008 by Gayle Ortiz, Joe Ortiz, and Louisa Beers
Front cover photograph by Maren Caruso
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, except brief excerpts for the purpose of review, without written permission of the publisher.
Ten Speed Press
PO Box 7123
Berkeley, California 94707
www.tenspeed.com
Distributed in Australia by Simon and Schuster Australia, in Canada by Ten Speed Press Canada, in New Zealand by Southern Publishers Group, in South Africa by Real Books, and in the United Kingdom and Europe by Publishers Group UK.
Cover and text design by Nancy Austin
Photography by Jonathan Chester, Extreme Images, Berkeley, California
Illustrations by Ann Miya, Santa Cruz, California
Gayles postage stamps designed by Joe Ortiz
Adaptation of excerpted from an article originally published in Food & Wine in November 1995.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Ortiz, Gayle.
Village bakers wife : the desserts and pastries that made Gayles bakery famous/ Gayle Ortiz and Joe Ortiz, with Louisa Beers.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 1-58008-573-3 (alk. paper)
1. Desserts. I. Ortiz, Joe, 1946 . II. Beers, Louisa.
III. Gayles (Bakery) IV. Title.
TX773.078 1997
641.86dc21
96-40240
CIP
eBook ISBN: 978-0-307-80944-5
Hardcover ISBN-10: 1-58008-957-7
Hardcover ISBN-13: 978-1-58008-957-9
v3.1
This book is dedicated to the memory of my mom, Fern Tomlinson, who taught me that creativity is as easy as apple pie. And to my father, Jack Tomlinson, whom we have to thank for the bakerys success. We wouldnt have gotten so far without his help. Hes always there for us.
CONTENTS
Acknowledgments
B AKERS: Linda Younger, Dan Zimmer, Marcos Chavez, Christopher Love, Chris Rominger, Sergio Sumano, and Steve Powell.
P AST BAKERS: Kelly Porter, Bonny Berry, Judith Swift, Kat Peters, Robyn Johnson, Debra Lynn, and all others whose imprint on Gayles is indelible.
B AKER FRIENDS: Lindsey Shere, for giving me my first chance to bake professionally; Johanne Killeen, Hildy Marshall, Alice Medrich, David Morris, Tom King, Flo Braker, Norman Love, Jean-Claude and Pierrette Poilpre, the late Cornelus Van Peski, Nick Malgieri, and Marion Cunningham, for their relentless inspiration and help.
F RIENDS AND FAMILY: Our publisher Kirsty Melville and editor Lorena Jones, who know how to make bakers sound like writers; agent Martha Casselman; Louisas husband, Brian Beers, head of dough production, who helped prepare the manuscript; designer Nancy Austin; photographer Jonathan Chester; artist Ann Miya, for her patience and ability to draw our hands in action; my sister, Joellen Alward; Goldie Hirsch and Robert and Gretchen Beers; helpers from the start, Jay Leite and Gretchen Collins; Christie Carlson, for her constant creative inspiration; purchaser and assistant Lisa Hindley, for technical help; Gayles staff, past and present, for making it happen on a daily basis (without you, Gayles would not be the place it is); and Charles Shere. Special thanks also to all of our wonderful customers, who have been with us since the beginning.
R ECIPE TESTERS: Jodi Alward, Roxanne Areias, Sybil Breitwieser, Kristin Brookins, Joan Carl, Barbara Castro, Jonathan Collins, Tracey Comin, Mary Cowley, Betty Deodiuc, Nancy Edgerly, Kathy Getty, Diana Giacomaro, Cathy Holdaway, Audrey Hull, Margaret Lietz, Laurie E. Liss, Sue Lundquist, Kate Hartzell, Kerry Hosley, Carol Jaques, Pat Lamson, Debra Lynn, Carol Marini, Pat McClellan, Ann Miya, Sue Porter, Judy Primavera, Barbara Rider, Kelly Roberts, Jean Shanahan, Carol Sida, Robin Sirakides, Allen Smith, Jim Spaulding, Melinda Tao (special thanks), Vi Thall, Shannon Tullius, Sara Van Artsdalen (thanks so much for testing more than your fair share of recipes, especially the hardest ones), Tamara Walters, Lucille Ward, Ann Wasserman, Rachel Wedeen, Margot Wells, and Marge Zott.
Introduction
This book is an entire pastry shop between two covers. It contains over 150 recipes from the cases of Gayles, our bustling bakery in the seaside town of Capitola, which is about ninety miles south of San Francisco on the California coast. The Village Bakers Wife also tells the story of the bakery and of the baking life, including how we got started, how we do what we do, and why its so important to us. We hope that our recipes and stories will inspire and help you bake for your family and friends the way Gayles bakers bake for our communityin the spirit of generations of village bakers.
When my husband Joe first suggested we call this book The Village Bakers Wife, I was appalled. After all, I was the first baker in the family, even though Joe has been a bread baker for fifteen years and wrote The Village Baker. But I came to see the humor in the title and decided it was the perfect name for the sequel to Joes book and a tribute to the wonderful Marcel Pagnol movie, La Femme du Boulanger. So please dont take our title too seriouslyits just a playful nod to the times when a village bakers wife brought a smile to her customers faces.
Because Joe was the one who encouraged (okay, needled) me to write this book, Ive asked him to tell our story. I hope you will enjoy the book and that it will inspire you to bake more at home.
Back in 1976, Gayle decided she wanted to open a bakery. It took years of research and study and many people had their doubts at the beginning, but Gayles continues to thrive and is still growing nearly twenty years later. Since the bakerys modest birth on Valentines Day in 1978, Gayles has grown from an 800-square-foot shop to a 10,000-square-foot food emporium. In that time, Gayles has served over 25 million cakes, pastries, and desserts to over 5 million adoring customers. Each month we transform raw ingredients into 20,000 Danish pastries, 15,000 assorted croissant goodies, 6,500 muffins, and 22,000 cookies, to mention just a few. In a months time we use 2.5 tons of butter, 32,000 eggs, 32,500 pounds of flour, and 990 pounds of chocolate. Our accountant, Jay Leite, calls it an inventory mill. We still call it a village bakery.
The Gayles bakery story actually began in 1976 when I was a housepainter and did an estimate for Jack Lirios cooking school in San Francisco. When I delivered the bid, Jack handed me a schedule of classes and proposed that we do a trade. I shook my head in disbelief, thinking it a little bold of him even to ask. Jokingly, I took the schedule to Gayle, thinking shed find it funny, too. Instead, she told me she had dreamed of making pastries since she was five years old, when her grandmother, Mina Rhoades, had let her and her sister Joellen frost bricks with lathered-up Ivory soap. Gayle ended up taking classes, even though I never did the painting job.