Sam Linsell - Sweet

Sam Linsell

For Luca and Kai Auf der Heyde,
who love sweet treats and are the delights of my life

sweet

thanks

Thanks to to Marie, Dad, Lori, Julie, Meg, Camilla, Michael, Almay, Carolie, Emma, Nicky and Maud for so generously contributing your recipes to my book. They are so delicious and Im thrilled to be able to share them.

A big thanks to the team at Penguin Random House who have been involved in putting this book together: Bev Dodd for allowing me to be so much a part of the design process and creating such a lovely layout; Cecilia Barfield for pulling my words into shape and making things better, and Linda De Villiers for all your encouragement along the way. I have so enjoyed working with you all.

I would also like to thank all the readers of my blog and friends on my social media who offer ongoing kindness and support for my recipes and my work. It means so much to me. And a final thank you to super talented photographer Claire Gunn for my author photograph.

Sam

Published in 2015 by Struik Lifestyle

(an imprint of Random House Struik (Pty) Ltd)

Company Reg. No. 1966/003153/07

The Estuaries No. 4, Century Avenue (Oxbow Crescent),

Century City 7441

PO Box 1144, Cape Town 8000, South Africa

www.randomstruik.co.za

Copyright in published edition:

Random House Struik (Pty) Ltd 2015

Copyright in text: Samantha Linsell 2015

Copyright in photographs: Samantha Linsell 2015

Print ISBN 978-1-43230-335-8

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, digital, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publishers and the copyright owner(s).

Publisher: Linda de Villiers

Editor: Cecilia Barfield

Designer: Beverley Dodd

Photographer and food stylist: Sam Linsell

Author portrait (): Claire Gunn

Proofreader: Bronwen Leak

Indexer: Anja Grobler

sweet contents

introduction

Sweet is a collection of recipes that swings the pendulum from desserts and puddings, across confectionary, to baked treats at the other end. Ive tried to include a little bit of everything I love; to cover them all I would need a second (and probably a third) book! I have a chronic sweet tooth that has steered me towards my passion for baking and dessert making, both of which are a source of comfort and great pleasure in my life.

In fact, while working on Sweet I realised I could probably write an entire book around fruit-based or boozy desserts because I am drawn to both. Mother Nature provides such a magnificent bounty of fruit and there is so much you can do with it, whether you keep it simple and close to its natural form, or change it considerably yet maintain its essence.

As for alcohol in desserts, so much goes into the creation of many liqueurs and tipples that they make wonderful ingredients when paired correctly with various sweet flavours often elevating your dessert into something magical. If, however, you prefer not to use alcohol, in most recipes it can be left out. In a few instances it is integral.

Im also passionate about vanilla, my favourite spice. I find it intoxicating and it, too, has magical powers. As Heston Blumenthal pointed out, our brain registers its aroma as sweet, but the flavour on its own is not. It is almost inedible and only when infused into ingredients such as milk, eggs and cream does it become exotic and delicious, while also enhancing and adding depth to other flavours such as chocolate and coffee.

When sugar is heated to 170 C, the molecules break down and a new compound forms, with a dark golden colour and deep flavour. Caramel. Its the binding agent for many sugary treats and to make it, sugar is transformed to either soft ball or hard crack stage. It can change from perfect to burnt in a wink, so its important to know exactly when to remove it from the heat or add other ingredients to change its consistency. Sugar work and caramel-making are tricky, so use a sugar thermometer, preferably a digital one.

And chocolate well everybody loves it. From white to milk to dark, it has become so sophisticated over the years. From single bean bars to understanding its origin as you would a fine wine, it must be one of the most wondrous foods in the world. I cant over-stress the importance of using the best quality you can afford. It makes a world of difference. I dont skimp on quality couverture and I buy it in bulk for affordability.

Sweet is divided into chapters according to my favourite sweet flavours: vanilla, caramel, chocolate and fruit. Its impossible to isolate them entirely so there is also some overlap, and then theres a chapter for other flavours that dont quite fit into these. Of course sugar is something to be enjoyed in moderation, but what would a party or any special gathering be without a little something sweet?

I made Sweet with much love, so I hope you find an abundance of delicious pleasure in it.

vanilla and Baileys French toast bake

Possibly one of the most decadent breakfast treats, this recipe is great for feeding a crowd. Bake the lightly fried bread in one large roasting dish and watch as it puffs up like a souffl. Serve immediately with dusted icing sugar, maple syrup and fresh berries. Or all of these, as I have done. Fried bananas would also be delicious. Add orange zest to the custard to give it a citrus note, and if you decide not to use the liqueur which I strongly suggest you do add an extra two tablespoons of sugar.

SERVES 46

300 ml milk

150 ml fresh cream

5 ml vanilla extract

3 large free-range eggs

50 g castor sugar

45 ml Baileys Irish Cream liqueur (optional)

1 challah or kitka loaf, sliced ( 10 slices, 2-cm thick) and ends discarded

butter, for frying and greasing

strawberries, icing sugar and maple syrup, for serving

Add the milk, cream, vanilla extract, eggs, castor sugar and liqueur to a bowl and beat until light and fluffy.

Arrange the slices of challah or kitka snuggly in a large ovenproof dish with sides and pour over the custard. Leave to soak for at least 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180 C.

Heat a large, non-stick frying pan and add a knob of butter. Fry 23 slices of challah or kitka at a time until they just start to turn golden-brown, then flip carefully and fry them on the other side.

Grease another large ovenproof dish with butter and arrange the slices snuggly side by side as you did before they were fried. Pop them into the oven for 20 minutes until theyre puffed up and cooked through. They should be firm to the touch.

Serve immediately with the sweet accompaniment of your choice.

vanilla French doughnuts with a lemony glaze

French doughnuts, or crullers, are my favourite kind of doughnut and I love the crispy outside layer and soft choux pastry centre. Simple to make, they puff up beautifully and are best eaten on the day they are made.