About the Authors
Simon Whitmarsh and Andrew Mok are both keen walkers, covering over 2000km a year. They have walked extensively in Britain, doing (at least part) of all the major trails, have hiked across England twice, and have walked in most countries in Europe. More recently their addiction to mountains has increased, with treks in the US (including many parts of the Appalachian Trail), Australia, New Zealand, Andrews native Hong Kong, Nepal (Everest Base Camp) and Pico, the highest mountain in Portugal, which is in the Azores.
They are both doctors a consultant paediatrician and a general practitioner who decided to write this book after being delighted and astounded by the walking opportunities of Portugal.
When not travelling, they enjoy finding new routes near their village in Snowdonia.
WALKING IN PORTUGAL
by Andrew Mok and Simon Whitmarsh
JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,
OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL
www.cicerone.co.uk
Andrew Mok and Simon Whitmarsh 2018
First edition 2018
ISBN: 978 1 85284 889 7
Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.
Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com
Contains OpenStreetMap.org data OpenStreetMap contributors, CC-BY-SA. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank our publisher for giving two untried and inexperienced writers this exciting opportunity. Also to the staff at various Institute for Nature Conservation and Forests (ICNF) offices and tourist information bureaux for their assistance, to the complete strangers encountered on these walks for offers of sustenance, and most importantly to the people of Portugal for being so welcoming.
Additional thanks to our friends and family for help and forbearance.
Updates to this guide
While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/889/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time.
The route maps in this guide are derived from publicly available data, databases and crowd-sourced data. As such they have not been through the detailed checking procedures that would generally be applied to a published map from an official mapping agency, although naturally we have reviewed them closely in the light of local knowledge as part of the preparation of this guide.
We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL, United Kingdom.
Register your book : To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.
Front cover: Walking towards the summit of Poios Brancos with views of the pitchers surrounding Torre, the highest point in mainland Portugal (Walk 24)
CONTENTS
A typical inland landscape of southern Portugal with rock roses, lavender, and a profusion of wildflowers
PREFACE
Our first experience of walking in Portugal came during a year of European travelling, when we were captivated by the unexpectedly huge mountains, devoid of crowds, and numerous excellent walking trails. Finding out where these began or went proved to be challenging, with limited resources from the majority of tourist information offices, poor outdated maps and no guidebook in English. The solution was to do extensive research and write our own guide.
We do not pretend to have walked every single footpath in Portugal but have investigated hundreds: asking locals, going online, making enquiries at the national park, nature park and tourist information offices, poring over maps, or simply spotting the signs as we went along. From these hundreds we have walked more than a hundred, from which we have selected walks that made our hearts sing, our spirits lift and made us feel glad to be alive. This is of course entirely subjective. Wherever possible we have chosen walks along the old ways (routes used by villagers in ancient times as their sole means of passage), sections of long-distance GR trails, and incorporating some history.
This book is designed to complement the Cicerone guide Walking in the Algarve , and has a different selection of Algarvian routes.
Simon Whitmarsh and Andrew Mok
2017
View of the town from Marvos castle, So Mamede (Walk 31)
INTRODUCTION
The Azeite Olive oil route follows cobbled paths next to olive groves (Walk 15)
Why go walking in Portugal? This delightful country enchanted two self-confessed walking addicts so much that after just a short visit we were captivated, returning again and again. There are so many reasons to fall in love with this relatively undiscovered gem of a country. The diverse terrain includes the rugged north with a multitude of mountains, many higher than Ben Nevis, and the beautiful Douro valley. Further south, the Serra da Estrela mountain range provides alpine, snow-capped peaks and plateaux. There is nearly 1000km of coastline including the dramatic arid scenery of the southern coastal areas, bordered by wave-pummelled cliffs. All this is encapsulated in a narrow strip of the Iberian Peninsula.
Another reason is the weather. With such a variety of meteorological microclimates within its borders, there is always somewhere to enjoy hiking at any time of the year in Portugal. The Arrbida Nature Park is good for walking in winter, as is the Algarve, whereas in the heights of summer when it is too hot to enjoy a good walk in many parts of Europe, you will find balmy temperatures in Serra da Estrela Nature Park.
The major draw remains the space. This is not a large country compared to its more massive Iberian neighbour, but you will be able to walk in peace and tranquillity, very likely in the delights of just your own company. Even if its popularity as a walking destination were to increase over time, this is a place that could absorb many visitors. In addition, there are the warm and friendly people. For those who dont speak Portuguese, some effort plus sign-language will be rewarded with smiles and helpfulness.